Colozeus Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 For those of you that take care of your own edges, what tools do you use? What should i buy? Links and suggestions appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nutmeg Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 Tooltonic roto finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keenan Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I switched from Swix to The Beast. You can get different angle plates for beveling and it's really easy to use. https://www.beasttuning.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 The Beast for base bevel. I have a really nice all-metal Red side bevel tool which is adjustable but Side of Beast looks excellent also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TVR Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q9Q5LI/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3BZZQJEK33IJJ&colid=I5RC3VGR4K8R&psc=0 Expensive, but I like how seriously sharp I can get the edge. I also like it does 85 on up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 37 minutes ago, TVR said: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q9Q5LI/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3BZZQJEK33IJJ&colid=I5RC3VGR4K8R&psc=0 Expensive, but I like how seriously sharp I can get the edge. I also like it does 85 on up. My wife had one of those but I never trusted it completely. I’ve gotten best results from a fixed guide (swix race) a swix second cut chrome file (for setting the angle or repairing) and diamond stones for deburring(200) and general maintenance (400). Usually get at least as good results as the guys that have the electric sharpeners. Base angle you can get by with taping one side of the file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TVR Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 cool, cool... the key to my tool is you have to keep even pressure and ensure the rollers stay on the ptex... but yea, I have seen and used the files and those work well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 Sold all my ski tuning tools decades ago and just getting back into doing my own edge work, so I'm slowly acquiring tools as needed. Like @st_lupo, I also use a swix fixed guide, hard to go wrong with something as simple as this, and you never have to wonder if you've reset an adjustable tool back to exactly the same angle as the last time you took a pass on a board. And I like the Diaface diamond stones for maintenance, have a 200 and 400 grit as well. Haven't had to do my base edges yet, but I'd probably go with the Beast base tool as recommended by @Keenan, same philosophy of fixed-angle tools never leading you astray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I agree with the philosophy of fixed tools. If you can't screw up the angle, you won't. I'm using an SVST side bevel guide and a BEAST base bevel guide, along with files and diamond stones. I had used the FK SKS edge tool before, but the ridges would wear on the base. Plus it was easy to select the wrong angle if you made a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 (edited) Oh forgot one surprisingly important tool: a sidewall cutter. Its a lot easier to set/maintain your side edge if you’re only working the steel alone. If you are prepping a new board you pretty much need one of these. It needs a slow and steady pull to avoid hacking up the sidewall. PS: this is assuming that you already have a good set of vises. I’m using the swix t-bar 500. Edited February 15, 2018 by st_lupo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 (edited) Sitting in the “ski prep” room... What the hell, throw in a gummi stone (removes the thin flap of metal that develops when filing the side edge and its an eraser for rust) and a spring clamp. ...And leather gloves... ...Blood rusts edges. Edited February 15, 2018 by st_lupo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 Ok, can someone educate me on the board vises? I made a vise of sorts out of glass-lifting suction cups a VERY long time ago, but it doesn't work with the carbonium topsheets. As best I can tell, the board just sits on top of the rubber pad on the ones pictured. Why is that better than sawhorses/hotel chairs/etc.? I've found that if you step up progressively on the files/stones, you don't get that little burr. i.e. file for base then side, coarse stone for base then side, medium stone for base then side, fine stone for base then side. I also use the FK SKS guide at 4 degrees (or whatever max is) with a coarse file to clear the sidewall plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 I find my old Craftsman Workhorse (looks kind of like this one, easily found at local garage sales) works great as a board or ski vise. I always found the ski specific ones lacking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 57 minutes ago, Corey said: Why is that better than sawhorses/hotel chairs/etc.? I find that when I use a wax wizard, I can generate a fair bit of force along the board as well as down into it. The rubber pads seem to provide enough friction so that the board doesn't slide. I can imagine with sawhorses that I'd be tipping the horses over if I wasn't careful, whereas the vises mount securely to a surface. I have a large stuffed chair that I used to use before I scored this wintersteiger vise, and it worked well when I threw a yoga mat over the arms, but it's in the living room and working in the shared space with the rest of the family unit was a bit disruptive. And it's hard to sneak hotel chairs out of the lobby, past security, and into the van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 5 hours ago, Corey said: Ok, can someone educate me on the board vises? I made a vise of sorts out of glass-lifting suction cups a VERY long time ago, but it doesn't work with the carbonium topsheets. As best I can tell, the board just sits on top of the rubber pad on the ones pictured. Why is that better than sawhorses/hotel chairs/etc.? I've found that if you step up progressively on the files/stones, you don't get that little burr. i.e. file for base then side, coarse stone for base then side, medium stone for base then side, fine stone for base then side. I also use the FK SKS guide at 4 degrees (or whatever max is) with a coarse file to clear the sidewall plastic. The rubber pads are nothing special but those are just for waxing/base repair. Being able to put the board into those slots and holding it up on edge makes it a lot easier to work the edge. The board is really locked in and it is easier to apply consistent pressure on the exposed edge. When I'm tuning, I'm only working the side edge (not the base) so I use gummy stone to knock off the burr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 At home i use http://www.skituning.at/en/ski-tuning/shop/pid/84 and on trips Tooltonic Roto's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Happy with the discman Pokkis? Am considering getting one for next season...the base edge tuning is such a hassle to do when u have too many boards... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 I use Tooltonic. The stuff is not cheap, but very easy to use. Quote I find my old Craftsman Workhorse (looks kind of like this one, easily found at local garage sales) works great as a board or ski vise. Excellent idea! I'll give it a try - although I would have thought the workhorse is too light. Or do you use two? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 1 minute ago, Aracan said: I use Tooltonic. The stuff is not cheap, but very easy to use. Excellent idea! I'll give it a try - although I would have thought the workhorse is too light. Or do you use two? Of course I also use the tooltonic package of tools unfortunately they are not distributed in north america it seems..and the price is high ( swiss mechanical precision at work, one man business..)...most european world cup ski teams use them for final touches and on site adjustments.. I intend to use the discman coupled with the tooltonic rotofinish and use the technique explained on his site for a final 89°aka: edge at 87°, base at -1° with the discman, and then add 1° with the rotofinish ( what tooltonic calls the twin roto concept that allows for lighter sharpening touch eating less material each time..) here is a small sketch on how its done... Purpose is: - less material taken out each time - faster retuning Its done by using the diamond discs of the roto system, eating up very few steel each time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Pat's right > first time buyer might want just an handtool from the shelf...but having started there too, i found the simple tools made it difficult and i was miserable each time trying to reach good tuning...angle and a clamp is not easy to use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 3 hours ago, Aracan said: I use Tooltonic. The stuff is not cheap, but very easy to use. Excellent idea! I'll give it a try - although I would have thought the workhorse is too light. Or do you use two? I have a much older version... It's anything but light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcousticBoarder Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 I have a Swix adjustable base bevel guide. Realistically, I don't change the angle so I could have done fixed. This one seems to stay accurate which is good, I am often nervous of plastic guides and them changing. I use the Side of beast guide for the sides. I use DMT diamond files as well. They work great and don't take off too much, I am able to get a nice polish with them. I have a gummy too if there's a little rust. I don't usually detune, but if I did I would use it for that too. I have a set of vices like these, but I think they are swix or something. Work great when traveling or whatever. This year I got a Tools4Boards stand I found on Amazon for half price, and acquired some free vices for it. Works great, the vices are on a track and I made 2 plywood work surfaces too for it; all folds up and fits in my gear closet. Both sets of vices are rubbery on top and even with the wax wizard, the boards don't move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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