kipstar Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Of course it would happen now with bomber in flux. I keep my board and bindings stored dry over summer, don't ride salted courses.... And yet starting riding this season there is noticeable corrosion - like a fizzed alloy cleat on a boat... Occurring in 7/8 months. It still has a fair bit of metal and the anodised coating is crumbling off with the metal flaking although no idea how deep. Anyone else have this and more importantly where would I even turn to buy this flat plate for a td3? Never expected this would fail so don't have a spare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Holy crap that is bad. Find a local powdercoat shop, they’ll sandblast everything prior to painting and baking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Whoa. Sometimes corrosion looks worse than it is due to the coating bubbling up. I'd hit the nickel coating with some kind of a pick or a wire brush to get the loose stuff off to see what's left of the aluminum. If it's mild pitting, I'd just sand it smooth and spray paint it. Then I'd ride that one while looking for an extra baseplate to keep this one as a spare. It likely won't fail tomorrow, but maybe in a couple years. I'd be a little nervous about powdercoating unless the shop often works with T6 aluminum - the heat used for steel parts anneals the aluminum, making it softer/weaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyt. Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Sometimes with dissimilar metals you will get corrosion. Especially with stainless and aluminum. Tef-Gel is a product sold in marine stores that isolates the two metals. A little bit goes a long way. Just brush the threads with Tef-gel and reassemble. Hope this helps some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Clearly not as dry as you though this can't happen without moisture. Spraying parts prior to storage with some lubricant, silicone or baking spray should handle the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 That's interesting. Somewhere along the line, that part got exposed to something caustic, and wasn't properly cleaned, possibly at the plating works. F/y/I, my one-off plates are raw aluminum, have been in use for maybe 10 years, and show no signs of degradation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 How close to the ocean are they stored, salt air is funny stuff. Another bomber plate shouldn’t be to hard to find, moving to F2’s isn’t bad, if you hate ‘em, you can sell ‘em, bomber parts will be showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 3 hours ago, Beckmann AG said: F/y/I, my one-off plates are raw aluminum, have been in use for maybe 10 years, and show no signs of degradation. What thickness of aluminium did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 ^ .375 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 .375 X 25.4mm = 9.5mm approx. Wow! Don't think I could tear that apart like I managed with a TD3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Probably would have been fine with 5/16, but I didn't have any at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted January 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Thanks for the advice... I am fairly sure there isn't much sea salt in bangkok as the ocean is 50km away, I run a dehumidifier and edges aren't rusted it's one single spot so maybe the cat peed on the bag or threw up and it sat damp for a while under my bed... Will wait and hopefully once the bomber operations get back underway I can replace this one piece. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Ha Ha caught you ! Board was in a bag ! Put the cat in a bag not the board. better dust bunnies than moisture on your board. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 Do you carry your board on the outside of the car (I always carry it inside). The snowmelt chemicals they use on the roads here are really hard on any metals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 On 1/1/2018 at 1:58 PM, Corey said: I'd be a little nervous about powdercoating unless the shop often works with T6 aluminum - the heat used for steel parts anneals the aluminum, making it softer/weaker. I may be mistaken but when I did my research prior to powdercoating my TD3s the deal is that a) temperature is based on the type of powder not base metal b) baking is of such short duration (10-20 min) that there is minimal impact c) and even if there were the metal would lose a tensile strength of 1-5% So in aircraft applications worthy of concern, in our case of gravity-induced sliding on crystallized water a non-issue. Coordinating the right color scheme is far more important xD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Agreed, but many powdercoaters 'burn' off existing coatings by subjecting the parts to very high heat first, then apply the powder and melt it in place with a lower temp bake cycle. It's very possible to have no effect on the aluminum if you do your homework and trust what the (sometimes knowledgeable) front desk salesperson at the powdercoater tells you. I've seen enough discrepancies between what is said in initial meetings and the final product that I don't trust many vendors without a burden of proof. I'm cautious by nature. Spray paint is pretty foolproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Most definitely, I did the due diligence to find a reputable powdercoat shop and anyone else should do the same. Its not rocket science but the devil is in the details. For example, the shop I used applied some kind of coating on threads of the bails to prevent them getting coated. I can imagine the nigthmare of trying to screw stuff on powdercoated threads. Spray paint even with a clear coat will not hold up to the abuse our bindings face, especially step ins. I tried. Maybe if I sandblasted them first to promote adhesion and then used primer but then it was just easier to pay 25 bucks to have them powdercoated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted January 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 (edited) On 02/01/2018 at 11:22 PM, John E said: Do you carry your board on the outside of the car (I always carry it inside). The snowmelt chemicals they use on the roads here are really hard on any metals. I live in Thailand so we don't have much snow here... Lowest temperature in last 15 years in Bangkok would be still only 12 degrees / 60? Fahrenheitish. I think lowriders law and order interrogation has identified the reason... Now I just need bomber to start making bindings again or get a set 2nd hand then I will be fine I think. Also anyhow I carry my board and my bike inside the car. Edited January 5, 2018 by kipstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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