piusthedrcarve Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Has anyone cut the nose of board to be more square or round? I have a pointy nose freecarving board that got a small nose damage. It is a minor ding but I wonder if it can be cut to be more squared or round. It is a camber board, no decambered nose at all. The edges start well behind (about 8 cm) from the tip of the nose. So I wonder if I can just cut at 3-4 cm to be more squared or round. Has anyone done this before and if has, how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Good question. Is it a metal board? K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Will depend on a few factors cap or laminated construction. If cap more doubtful??? Laminated ? Get a magnifying glass and inspect the layers and how far down the sidewall they go. As long as you can identify the layers you may be successful. Perhaps if you post the make of board someone may have experience from breaking one open. Last resort if your going ahead damn the torpedo's drill a very small hole where you plan to cut and check that you haven't drilled into wood. Check out some homemade split board video and you will get a better idea what you might find inside a board. Happy tinkering ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 So long as it's not metal, just cut it and clean the area up with sand paper, then seal with an epoxy. Use one with a slow cure time and do your best to keep the area it's curing in at or above 70*. Make sure you use a sharp and fine enough toothed blade that you're not pulling your laminations off the core or your base off the laminations. Use a saber saw and have a few extra blades handy. You'll be surprised at how fast glass takes the teeth off a blade. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 You could try a small disc grinder with an abrasive blade and step cut it, be careful if you have never used these to cut, there is a stand up method that is pushed away from you and the blade rotation is away from you as well. Also use proper hand position. It is done all the time in the stone fab industry. google "stone cut disc grinder" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Ace* Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 You should get together with Corey and have a 'ruin perfectly good gear' party. He can file away the teeth on your TD3 disk and you can make his Coiler look like Shred's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 You should get together with Corey and have a 'ruin perfectly good gear' party. He can file away the teeth on your TD3 disk and you can make his Coiler look like Shred's. Heat is your enemy so cut very slowly if using power tools. If you cook the epoxy it won't be good. Fresh blades in a hand hacksaw will work well if board tip is clamped down. For a very clean cut clamp some material on either side of area to be cut it will prevent the topsheet from chipping as you cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Kurt: it's. A non metal board. lowrider and Kurt: it's Madd 170. Yeah Kurt. It's the one I got from you. The tip of the pointy nose got a ding yesterday. Came home and looking at the 170 next to 158, and after seeing Shred's new deck nose design, hmmm i am considering the cut instead of repair. Saw few DIY splitboard instruction. So I just use a circular saw to cut and sand the cut area then epoxy. Easy? Sent from mobile device using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 You should get together with Corey and have a 'ruin perfectly good gear' party. He can file away the teeth on your TD3 disk and you can make his Coiler look like Shred's. I have a hammer and a sawzall and can come help any time. :) Would an oxy-acetylene torch help? Seriously, didn't Ink chop the nose off an old SG a few years ago? I'd be nervous keeping the edges well-secured at the edge of the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Photos are critical to this thread!!!!!!!!! Ace, funny stuff there Good reply Corey, lovin it!! I have lots of big hammers and drills. My specialty? I can drill holes in perfectly good Bomber Boiler plates and TD3s !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Cut with anglegrinder and disk for metal. Smoth with sandpaper. Seel with epoxy. If extra protection is wantef, add a piece of rubbery nose guard... Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Frankly, I wouldn't trust anyone but Bruce or Sean to do the surgery and I would be surprised if they would take on the task. Sean? Wanna give us yer $0.02 Would you do a metal board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 As one of the few softbooters here and coming from the Pacific Northwest late in 80's to early 90's, cutting tips and tails was common practice. We could cut down Burtons and Libs all the time. Libs were easy as there wasn't much meat on the tip and tail to speak of. It was all plastic as most cores stopped just before the end of the camber. Burtons, you had to remove edge material and sometimes came into contact with the wood core. Heat was always the enemy so using a cutting wheel/grinder was usually only used at the very end to fix the imperfections and round things off evenly. Many Libs became Directional freerides as we would lop off the tails on blem boards. OG slalom boards with 3 strap megaflex and Kemper bindings. skill saw with a fresh blade works well for quick cuts and a sharp jig saw works well too. Lots of epoxy after. Can only speak for old decks though. I say go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 it's Madd 170. Well hell, it's a Madd? Just lay it upside-down in the driveway and run over it with your car until the blemished part grinds of in the gravel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I am leaning toward to cut it off. As Big Canuck said, I am waiting Sean to comment on this job. Any last warning before It become a hammerhead Madd 170? Sent from mobile device using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Have done this a few times on the MADDs for aesthetic reasons. Trim it round with an orbital jigsaw, and smooth it with a sander of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Seriously, didn't Ink chop the nose off an old SG a few years ago? QUOTE]Yep, that'd be the twin tail, holdin' up just fine mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 OK Done. Last photos with 158. I only have quick dry epoxy so i didn't apply yet. I will apply slow cure epoxy on the cut area tomorrow and will do test run shortly if any changes, which I doubt. Thank you all for input, concerns, and humors. Sent from mobile device using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 No epoxy necessary as long as no porous materials were exposed (wood). Just be sure to chamfer the edger of the ptex base and plastic top sheet. The more radii it has the less chance of damage as it deflects impact points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Seriously, didn't Ink chop the nose off an old SG a few years ago? QUOTE]Yep, that'd be the twin tail, holdin' up just fine mario Why can I remember that but forget my wife's birthday? Good luck piusthedrcarve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 It is done now, but durabond would have been a good filler, I have used it on a bamboo sidewall alpine board where the tail sidewalls got scalloped a bit due to sharp abrasive snow. It has held there without cracking or any change for a couple seasons and I know it is flexing back there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 No epoxy necessary as long as no porous materials were exposed (wood). Just be sure to chamfer the edger of the ptex base and plastic top sheet. The more radii it has the less chance of damage as it deflects impact points. Yup. Already done that with file and buffed. I ordered the Marine G-Flex epoxy to prevent any water to get in there. Now I wonder if this modification of nose shape may change ride characteristics on bumps/crud.. maybe easier to cut thru, instead of going over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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