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More Madds...


Jeffrey Day

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Guest Randy S.

What's the guy doing in the graphic on the left? Taking a dump?

From Ben's photos, it looks like Mike did an awesome job on the base structure. Almost makes me want to ship a board to the east coast and back for tuning. Almost.

Randy

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Anyone else curious as to the fact that the sidecut is listed as 10.5, 11.2, and 11.5 in various places?

I asked Ben to measure his new baby. (Thanks Ben!!!)

Nose: 23.5

Waist: 18

Tail: 23.3

Effective Edge: 153

When you plug that into Nate W's calculator...

Equivalent Sidecut Radius = 10.84

Nate - what definition does your formula assume for effective edge? Ben's measurement is a straight line from widest point to widest point. The measurement would obviously be longer if measured along the curvature of the edge, which would in turn mean a bigger sidecut when plugged into Nate's calculator.

BTW Nate's calculator pretty much nails the sidecuts for a few samples I tried from Donek's site.

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Originally posted by Bob Jenney

I'm sure most if not all of you already know this, but most manufacturers do not use an arc for side cut. It's more typically a parabolic curve. The side cut numbers are just approximate representations of this curve.

I should have said "Equivalent sidecut radius". (edited in my post).

My understanding was that "equivalent sidecut radius" of a non-circular sidecut is usually calculated by taking the nose, waist and tail width, as well as the effective edge, and finding the radius of circle that would have the three points in common w/ the specified effective edge... which I assume is what Nate's calculator does. (Maybe I need to do the math myself - it's been a while!)

In any case this meaningless exercise is just something to keep me busy until it starts to f'ing snow around here. It has to be extremely rare that Mt Hood Meadows is one of the last places in the country to open... but so far that's the way it's looking.

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are not the ends of the sidecut, nor the ends of the effective edge. Slide a piece of paper under the nose and tail of a flattened board to see where the nose and tail lift off the ground. It's a couple cm's short of the widest points. Gilmour has been claiming a 10.5 for this run of 170s. I had heard a rumor once that someone had spec'd the Donek 171fc (11.2m eq. radius) to be a replica of the original Madd 170.

Speaking of originals, the blue/purple sad-boy graphics are a re-do of the original graphics. The art is seen here:

attachment.php?s=&postid=16589

And as it appeared on the board:

attachment.php?s=&postid=16588

IIRC, it was done by some young kid and I don't think it was intended to be a snowboard graphic, but then Mike liked it so much he used it on the boards. The recent contest and poll for new Madd graphics was open to younger folks in hopes of recapturing that feeling.

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Jack, so when you slip the paper under the tail, nose and you decamber the board on the flat surface too? All my measurments were taken after I slipped the paper under the tail and nose with the board on the flat ground.

One other thing that I wanted to mention about the boards is that you really have to clean out your inserts. If you look in there and there is black in the bottom of them then you need to remove that stuff. I think it's material from the CF butterfly but there is a lot of it in there. I removed about 2mm from most of the inserts on my board. If you don't do this then I would suspect that you wouldn't be able to get proper thread ingagement and would be sustable to rip outs. I also ran an M6 tap down all the inserts to clean up all the threads. That one is not necesssary but I would recommend it as there was some epoxy and other mfg junk in some of mine.

->Ben

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Speaking of inserts, can we establish exactly which bolts we're going to need for proper thread engagement?

TD1: M6 x ?? mm

TD2: M6 x 18 mm Flattop ??

Catek Olympics: ??

Are the Madd orders which included a binding order shipping with the proper bolts?

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Originally posted by bschurman

Jack, so when you slip the paper under the tail, nose and you decamber the board on the flat surface too? All my measurments were taken after I slipped the paper under the tail and nose with the board on the flat ground.

Well, I suppose we're kind of splitting hairs to worry about that. In real use, the snowboard sinks into the snow to some depth, and the edge is often engaged in the snow <i>past</i> the widest points of the board - sometimes well up the nose. Check out the nose in these pictures, it's half in the snow!

http://photo.ruhtra.com/04311b/n311b16c.jpg

http://photo.ruhtra.com/04311b/n311b21c.jpg

However, yes, I would measure the running length of the board as the length of the board touching the ground, decambered. We have to establish a consistent reference, and I believe this is where manufacturers do it. I'll ask Sean, if he's not reading this.

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Looks like Ben was one step ahead of me on that one, using the correct points for sidecut measurements :)

I'll probably be a geek and measure my own 170 when it arrives.

The only reason I am so interested in these specs is the claim that the Donek FC 171 shape was copied from the Madd 170... I've ridden the 171 recently, and am curious to see how they compare and contrast. I've never ridden two boards by different makers using similar or same specs before!

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Personally - I like the Classic graphics on the new boards, even the Twisted Girl is starting to grow on me.

I think Mike/Shaggy/Cheri/John stayed true to the orginal Madd's by using a similar graphic, but updating it in a new color - new but always known.

Madd's are unique boards and either of these graphics will stand out and be considered different to much of the market.

The reality is poeple bought these boards to ride, not hang up as art pieces - so their performance will be what we will all be talking about.

I would like to know what size screws I will need to install Catek Olympics and WCC on this board, so I will be ready when it arrives.

Now all we have to do is get snow on the ground!!!!!!!!!!!!

All the best,

Rob

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