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Standard Directional Freeride board with hardboots


Scott.Creer

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I have seen a few people riding hardboots on FR boards. Will make you have better response and edge hold. I would recommend a softer flexing boot and bindings with some lateral flex. Lots of people ride powder boards with them. Get step in bindings for real convienience. Have found that standard bindings are a lot easier to get into than softboot strap bindings too.

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Anyone out there rocking a standard directional freeride board with hardboots as their all mountain? I am debating on getting something like: http://www.the-house.com/9862hdin10zz-head-snowboards.html

Anyone else doing this?

One of our local guys rides an older supermodel and the precursory to the Solomon Burner. He rips! He also rides a very soft setup.

Come out to buck Sunday nights and have a ride with us.

You may want to go with a larger SCR radius than the Head, 7M seems a little tight.

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Just got a new-used Arbor A-Frame to do just this. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet though but I'll report back with my opinion. I've heard great things about this deck so I'm anxious to try and rail some turns with it :)

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Just remember, if you mount hardboots on a non hardboot deck, it is not a matter of if, but when will you rip the inserts out or destroy it some other way (excluding high quality mfrs like Prior, Donek, Coiler, etc.)

Beware.

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I ride freeride and pow boards with plates a lot... I never managed to destroy a board, except for a Kessler 185 earlier this season.

Anyways, here are few reflections on setups and boards...

I like riding a "hybrid" or "surf" stance, 45-50 in front with some toe lift and 25-35 in the back, with heel lift and some invard cant. Steep forward angle gives me strong carving abillity on heel side and lesser blind spot. Flat rear angle gives me mobillity and skidabillity. As my boots are small, very wide boards don't work well with my angles, especially if we're not talking pow only. Ideally, I should be on sub-24 waisted board, but they are hard to find... Few favorites: Steepwater Steep, Tanker, 3800, 4807...

I don't like changing boots, so I'm always on my Franken-Dalbellos with BTS, for ski, carve, freeride, teach... I just buckle them a bit looser for pow and teaching applications. As the result, I had to find floppiest plates available. I fell in love with Blax/Proflex/F2 Carve RS (all the same thing). They give me a lot of flex and twist in the bases, but boot can also rock quite a bit in the bails, too. I have near softboot mobillity, with ankle support and carving power of h/boots. I loved Snowpros for this application in the past, but now they feel way too stiff, compared to Proflex.

As much as I like my freeride "normal" boards, I have to say that for all-round abillity and appropriate angles/width ratio, I like my quazi-alpine boards the most - Nidecker Proto, F2 ElDiablo, Kessler BXn, all in the range of 22-23 width....

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Just remember, if you mount hardboots on a non hardboot deck, it is not a matter of if, but when will you rip the inserts out or destroy it some other way (excluding high quality mfrs like Prior, Donek, Coiler, etc.)

Beware.

Not necessarily Jim. I have never ripped inserts out of anything and I have ridden lots of "non hardboot" boards with plates. I never thought of these boards as not suited for HBs, but just as freestyle(ish) boards.

Including:Frontier 185, Supermodel 181, Burton Air in 173 and 174, Canyon 173, Ride 177, Salomon 170? and a Tanker 192 ( not enough miles on this one yet ).

For the record for most of my HB career I have been between 225 and 250lbs and spend my time on snow hard carving, bumping or in the trees. Of course if I have to ride powder I do. I ride reasonably hard and have broken down at least three pairs of Reactors, Two pairs of Fires and a pair of Furnaces in that same time - so I do flex the boots really hard and I am sure that energy gets transmitted to the board somehow too.

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+1 on that. Never ripped anything but the snow.

The old Supermodel was great in powder with HB but very wide so I'm not sure I'd have wanted to ride it on piste, except with a very mellow stance.

I ride powder boards on HB all the time and everything works, but the "underhang" (space between toes/ heels and the edge) is not important in powder. Right now I'm playing with a Solomon Sick Stick, which looks narrower than it is, but works fine in powder. Here's a little video of that from yesterday.

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Thank you all for the input. I am gonna try some boards and see what happens, then maybe make a purchase. This is definitely the route I will go for an all mountain, rather than the $800 hardboot specific boards.

Come out to buck Sunday nights and have a ride with us.

MUD I would love to, but I think Sunday nights will be stubby course time at Afton. I will be there on the 29th for the USASA race.

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I've been riding a Rossignol Levitation 170 Freeride/ All Mountain for over ten years with Raichle 324's and plate bindings. When people ask about the setup I just tell them it's like having power steering.

Mick

I did this before I bought my first carving board. Does your Levitation have the THC:freak3: core?? I rode that thing at 45/35

Scott, my question is this, what do you want to do on this board? For years I did EVERYTHING on hard boots, then last season one of my carving buddies said Im missing out on the spring riding using hard boots. Now keep in mind I had not been on soft boots since 96 and being kinda narrow minded like some here on this site I said I can do anything on my Hard boots. Well I got a soft boot set up going at the end of the season last year just to see what my friend was yapping about and I was like:eek: This is Fun, and EASY.

So now I have my Coiler VSR for carving and if its not a carving day heck with hard boots.

Now I know I just lost some street cred with some of the staunch supports of hard boots but there is more to life than hard boots especially in spring or non groomed stuff.

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Hey Scott, there is a guy on eBay that is in Minnesota who is trying to sell his Burton BX 165 board for $150 but cannot sell it. I bet if you chuck $100 his way he might sell it and then you can use the extra dough for the other accessories you need to outfit it. I'm never a big fan of buying new gear for something I want to test out when I can get something used that will work just as well. If you don't like it you can probably resell it.

Just an idea. Or there is also a Palmer Crown for $150 but that has a bid already so who knows what it will go for. That should rip well with hard boots.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Burton-Fusion-165-Bx-Boardercross-Carving-Snowboard-/330509811662?pt=Snowboarding&hash=item4cf3eb7fce

http://cgi.ebay.com/Palmer-Crown-LE-161-freeride-boardercross-Snowboard-/120670108507?pt=Snowboarding&hash=item1c187fbb5b

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I did this before I bought my first carving board. Does your Levitation have the THC:freak3: core?? I rode that thing at 45/35

Scott, my question is this, what do you want to do on this board? For years I did EVERYTHING on hard boots, then last season one of my carving buddies said Im missing out on the spring riding using hard boots. Now keep in mind I had not been on soft boots since 96 and being kinda narrow minded like some here on this site I said I can do anything on my Hard boots. Well I got a soft boot set up going at the end of the season last year just to see what my friend was yapping about and I was like:eek: This is Fun, and EASY.

So now I have my Coiler VSR for carving and if its not a carving day heck with hard boots.

Now I know I just lost some street cred with some of the staunch supports of hard boots but there is more to life than hard boots especially in spring or non groomed stuff.

I use my softies for the big slopestyle jumps:) Sometimes I like to get some air and throw in the few tricks I can do. Also, softies are more comfortable for me. I ride at about 18/10 (F/R) and I can still carve to an extent before I boot out. It's like having a road bike and a mountain bike:)

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my intention is to ride is when it is too crowded, just snowed over 4 inches, in trees, or in spring or early season conditions. I have a soft boot set up that I do not want to put back on my feet.

It is easier to be able to just switch boards. It will be nice to rock my NSR/VSR in the morning then just swap over to an all mountain when the area gets crowded.

Futahaguro, thanks for the heads up. but I am not gonna buy anything until I experiment this weekend at Afton.

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What I found when switching back and forth was I tried to ride my AM board the same as my carving board:nono: bad idea. I now feel if Im not "carving" while Im on hard boots what the hell am I doing on them. Sliding around on a wide AM board and riding hard boots at low angles just hurts my feet and legs not to mention my carving pride:o

Either way good luck with what ever you decide and let us know how it worked out for you.

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Ken, how much do you weigh? What angles are you running? How does it compare to other boards you have ridden with HBs? Have you ridden it with SBs also, how would you compare the two? Sorry for all the questions

Thanks

200lbs, I was on the 164. My FRS is a 165.

Approximately 35 rear/55 front (I've only got 4 runs in on this setup, starting from the realm of suggested angles for the board)

The other boards I've ridden with HBs in these conditions seem to pop up and pound you in the bumps like a boat that pounds in a heavy chop. This board felt just as smooth as my freeride board. It's no powder gun, but with a little attention, I could keep the nose up in the untracked 16-18" no problem. I took it out to have the experience and know what the board was and wasn't capable of. I truly expected to just suffer down a few runs in survival mode. Granted I'd still need some time to feel really at home on the setup, but I was having fun with it by halfway down the first run. I haven't tried it with soft boots yet but I intend to....soon. My gut tells me it would be a killer softboot carver so long as you can set it up with small enough boots (26.5ish) or risers to keep your feet off the snow.

Doh, missed the "ken". I need some sleep.:o

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