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Plan-B Plate, by BlueB


BlueB

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In the summer of 2009 I started building a floating system similar to Hangl, which evolved into an all-aluminum single plate, similar to Karl’s. I ran into some troubles machining the aluminum with my limited tools, etc. Then, the rumours and pictures of Apex started surfacing. It culminated in JJ’s golden run at the Olympics. The rest is history…

So, after going back and forth with various hardware concepts, I finally settled for one.

And here it is, the Plan-B!

Plate-8.jpg

Or, you could call it “Bling on Bling… on Bling”.

Hardware is simple, mostly UHMDPE, few screws, a bit of Neoprene…

Plate-1.jpg

I achieved a universal mounting base, that would fit onto UPM pattern and on standard 4x4 pattern, without any adapters.

Plate-2.jpg

Pivoting point is drilled with 5mm offset, giving the 10mm adjustment to overcame the difference of 4x4 (4x2) pattern and 30mm UPM pattern. Simple flip does it.

Plate-4.jpg

Slider slots are made slightly oversized for self micro adjustment.

Plate-5.jpg

Plate-3.jpg

And, to answer someone’s question from another tread: Yes, the plate can carve on its own, too! :D

Plate-6.jpg

Testing, testing… Nice uniform flex in the board, no flex in the plate. Smooth action of the sliders.

Plate-7.jpg

A bit more of bling:

Plate-9.jpg

So where to, from here?

For starters, I need some more snow…

Next generation hardware will have nicer axle bolts and no lock nuts. The tread will be incorporated to the mounting base.

Next generation plate will be a proper, purpose designed, laminated plate, rather then a butchered old board. The sliders/pivots might be attached to it slightly different…

But, snow first.

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This is pretty scary looking design for my taste.:eek:

What is the sceriest thing that can happen? If the hardware failed, I'd end up with a plate attached to my boots in a solid A frame configuration - safe. There is nothing that would brake the board, either. Few days of work invested in the hardware and few $ is the biggest loss that can happen...

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U have the time for the 3rd Project before season start?:rolleyes:

No point making another one before we tested this... The idea is to set your Kes with TD3s only vs. mine with plate and give it a go. Then we'll do Hangle vs. plate, then Vist Vs. plate. By the time we're done with all of that, we'll have the idea of the beneffits and durabillity.

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Is there sufficient clearance between the board and plate? Or between the plate slider blocks and the board? Also, you just threaded the UHMDPE for the bolts into the slider and pivot blocks? Also stiffened the entire plate with a strip of maple. It was really flexy before that.

Enough clearance on both sides.

It is really stiff as is, there was no need reinforcing. Probably because I left the edges on and didn't cut a waist into it.

Yes, tread right into UHMDPE. 20mm of it - looked ample to me. My logic is that most of the forces are down into it, rather then pull. We'll see when the snow is here. Version 2 might have a completelly different slider attaching system.

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Enough clearance on both sides.

It is really stiff as is, there was no need reinforcing. Probably because I left the edges on and didn't cut a waist into it.

Yes, tread right into UHMDPE. 20mm of it - looked ample to me. My logic is that most of the forces are down into it, rather then pull. We'll see when the snow is here. Version 2 might have a completelly different slider attaching system.

You're applying a moment or twisting force to the board when you put it on edge. The lifting force you generate will likely bend your plastic dramatically. You're relying on the plastic alone, without a solid shaft, to support this load. Watch my video on destructive testing. Do some carpet riding and look at it critically. I think you have something that is potentially very dangerous here. If you do put it on snow, go really slow and disassemble repeatedly.

In destructive testing I was able to bend solid shafts at much lower forces than can be present with a great deal more support than you have here.

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Enough clearance on both sides.

It is really stiff as is, there was no need reinforcing. Probably because I left the edges on and didn't cut a waist into it.

Yes, tread right into UHMDPE. 20mm of it - looked ample to me. My logic is that most of the forces are down into it, rather then pull. We'll see when the snow is here. Version 2 might have a completelly different slider attaching system.

You're applying a moment or twisting force to the board when you put it on edge. The lifting force you generate will likely bend your plastic dramatically. You're relying on the plastic alone, without a solid shaft, to support this load. Watch my video on destructive testing. Do some carpet riding and look at it critically. I think you have something that is potentially very dangerous here. If you do put it on snow, go really slow and disassemble repeatedly.

In destructive testing I was able to bend solid shafts at much lower forces than can be present with a great deal more support than you have here.

Just remember that for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. In other words, the snow pushing up on your edge has to be supported by an equal force/moment applied to the opposite side of the board.

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What is the sceriest thing that can happen? If the hardware failed, I'd end up with a plate attached to my boots in a solid A frame configuration - safe. There is nothing that would brake the board, either. Few days of work invested in the hardware and few $ is the biggest loss that can happen...

I can't believe you are not considering the possibility of your potential slope torpedo taking out someone else... or someone else's kid.

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Kids should all be on a leash.Or do you mean the plate? My kids all healed real quick after letting them loose on my contraptions. All three are instructors so i must not have scared it all out of them. Yet !:biggthump Nice job on the plate Blue B finish off the edge with some coloured tape or something or the ski patrol might chase you out of the lift line before you get to try it !

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Hi Blue B,

Nice to see some more DIY plate makers / designs coming out of the woodwork.

Like Sean Martin, I wouldn't trust steel machine screws in a UHMWPE thread. The plastic "creeps" or stretches under a load. In my own DIY version, everything had an SS nut on the other end, plus Loc-Tite.

You could fairly easily inset a pair of T-nuts on the underside of each lateral block as a solution and still maintain the same clearance.

SunSurfer

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  • 3 weeks later...

PBP had it's first trip to the hill today! On a Kessler 185, of course.

Conditions were very cold (-14C), hero groom, with heaps of man made dry pow at lot of places. Some bumping up later in the day.

After few runs on easy slopes, I rode it mostly down the Olympic PGS run (can't even think of a better test place!), pretty fast and hard. Deliberatly searched for bumpier places to hit. I even had few good crashes, one quite hard. Everything is still in one piece, without any signs of stress or loosening. I'll dismantle it tomorrow to see the hidden parts...

As for the ride, it does everything that I red about the plates - smooth, crazy edge setting power, vibration free. Did I mention smooooth? :D

Weight, on unsuported chair lift, felt less then a smaller board with Vist (just from my memory). Exact weight comming tomorrow, after the dismantling.

post-1678-141842326608_thumb.jpg

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Looks nice boris - how much does it weigh?

Whole thing weighs 4 lbs 9 oz. Hardware alone, including the plate bolts, 1 lb 8 oz.

Plate will get a bit lighter when I drill one or more oversized holes for the leash to go directly onto the board. Will post the update when done.

Just as a refference, my pair of TD2s with TD3 elastomers weigs 4 lbs 6oz.

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