jojogreen Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Step 1: buy a board for $1500 Step 2: Ride it for a season Step 3: Sell it at the end of the season for around $700 (then its like you paid $800 for a new board) Step 4: repeat steps 1-3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburrill Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Or maybey pony up the $$$$$ to buy a new board and you wouldn't get burned down for coming on here and bitching about something you bought second hand and now feel that the alpine snowboarding world should bow down and fix your problem immediately. I really don't think you get it! Put a bit of critical thinking into this current dilema of yours, now, I really don't think Sigi or SG is out of line buy NOT jumping through firey rings and swimming through piranha infested water to kiss your butt and service your slightly used and probably throttled snowboard. Don't be a chode.Think Snow! **** you ******* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rauch Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Does anyone have a recommendation for what to put under a TD3 binding. Just bought an SG 185 new in USASA classifieds and the seller also indicated that TD3's "eat" titanal boards. Plan on getting a plate system when the dust settles on that debate soon. In the mean time what can I put between the board and binding? and where can I get it. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 video on how to make riser :- http://hardbooter.net/blog/?p=147 riser template:- http://www.hardbooter.net/plate.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I have been going through this myself!! If you have one, a vist plate would be good. other wise, the catek polycarbonate spacers are a good way to keep from point loading. Due to diffuculty of reaching catek, I made my own. You can get the plastic from home depot (believe it or not). It's the same stuff. just make a template, cut it out, round alll the edges off (so you don't point load there either), and mark/drill holes. don't push hard when drilling plastic, it tends to shatter on the bottom if you do, just let the bit do the work. For hardware, you will need m6x18, or m6x20 depending on you're equipment (go to mcmaster.com). I just got a 185t myself an installed these spacers on there (I of course have cateks:eek:) so the evil metal bindings are on my metal boards. I won't go into my thoughts on that but, make the spacers, it was very easy. If you can't, contact me, I could sell you a set of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 it tends to shatter on the bottom if you do, just let the bit do the work. You didn't buy the Plexiglass (acrylic) instead of the Lexan (polycarbonate), I hope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Does anyone have a recommendation for what to put under a TD3 binding. Just bought an SG 185 new in USASA classifieds and the seller also indicated that TD3's "eat" titanal boards. Plan on getting a plate system when the dust settles on that debate soon. In the mean time what can I put between the board and binding? and where can I get it. Thanks for the help! :smashfreaJust as a note. TD3 bindings don't break all metal boards. I have yet to see a Donek board failure caused by a tD3 binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I checked and sure enough, I bought the other stuff. after a little hunting today, I scored the good stuff from a glass shop. He had enough laying around for me to make two for my SG:lol:. thanks for the concern blue b. It would have been interesting having a spacer explode under my feet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I checked and sure enough, I bought the other stuff. after a little hunting today, I scored the good stuff from a glass shop. He had enough laying around for me to make two for my SG:lol:. thanks for the concern blue b. It would have been interesting having a spacer explode under my feet! So the acrylic can explode but Lexan doesn't?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 You didn't buy the Plexiglass (acrylic) instead of the Lexan (polycarbonate), I hope? Dammit, I bought the wrong stuff also. Luckily I haven't got round to making any from those sheets of acrylic yet. My first set I made out of cutting board material. Basically it takes one board per binding. Seems like that should work OK, pretty durable I thought. Anyone have any feedback on using that material? (I haven't tried them yet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Looks like my cutting board material is PE (Polyethelene). From a website I found :- Polycarbonate: Pros wide working temperature range great impact strength good optical properties (very clear) Cons usually costs more chemical resistivity concerns can release bisphenol A Polyethylene Pros great chemical resistivity cost Cons softens when heated melting point between 105-130C (depending on grade) Acrylic is rumoured to be tough to drill without cracking. Both acrylic and polycarbonate can crack. Don't lick your polycarbonate risers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Don't lick your polycarbonate risers. Really? Crap. I've been doing this for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evnewsphoto Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I wish I had seen this post before I had the same thing happen, just noticed my 2 month old SG 163 (brand new when I got it) had the same break on the back binding as the guy who posted here has, aghh! I hope Sigi sees this and would be willing to look at the board also, he's probably headed home after the Moscow race. I'll try facebook too. I wonder if I get a VIST plate could I still ride the board? I know that it's too late to mount plastic spacers and a bomber/apex/sg/donek type plate might break it more, but a VIST plate should spread out the force I would think? Everett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
match2002 Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Sorry dude, your board is dead. 1 down, 99 left. Hope the other boards have more responsible owners . SG Full Race Pro Team + Bomber TD1 = Deadly combination. Sorry but you could easily win the stupidity award of the year. I hope you're not counting on any warranty replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Sorry dude, your board is dead. 1 down, 99 left. Hope the other boards have more responsible owners .SG Full Race Pro Team + Bomber TD1 = Deadly combination. Sorry but you could easily win the stupidity award of the year. I hope you're not counting on any warranty replacement. Quite honestly, while I agree that using solid metal bindings with a titanal board wasn't the best idea in the world, considering the numerous warnings and examples of doing so over the years, I would hardly call this stupidity or a lack of responsibility. Seriously, if a board is that fragile in this day and age when metal is considered a "standard option" that a binding could make it snap it in two then its something I wouldnt want anyone to ride on. Or at least have the manufacturer clearly declare that all metal baseplate bindings should be avoided (and state that it would void warranty). Of course, you being a SG dealer and calling a customer "stupid" doesn't really earn you or SG any brownie points. 'nuff said. @evnewsphoto, I think if you read the SG warranty on their website it specifically states that any boards with titanal are not covered. Sounds to me like your board and money are toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Yeah no warranty on Sg Titan boards. Guess I should build a spacer for my recent acquisition as I plan to run td3s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evnewsphoto Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Where is the warranty on the website? Most of it's in German so I don't think I've seen it. I to take offense to be called stupid but I guess I should have researched things more. I am f-ed here, I posted this on thier Facebook wall too, maybe they'll help out to avoid the negaitive press. I have a 175 SG full race that has the same set up and I have been riding that since last year with 0 problems and 3 times the mileage on it. I just inspected it and there are no hints of a crack so I do wonder if it's a deffect in the 163. I avoid plates after I rode one last year for a while and found it hurt me more than it helped but to avoid the same kind of crack I wonder if a VIST plate would do the trick to prevent the problem. Love my SGs they are the best boards I have ever ridden but so upset at how poorly this one is constucted. Everett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Received the board. Base was scuffed on contact point. Edges were rough and discolored. Not "like new" but fairly easy to fix, I thought. I used a variable-angle edge guide to determine side-edge bevel; it turned out to be 3 degrees. Cleaned up side edges with 3 degree fixed SVST guide and stones (no files). Then I attended to the base edges. I attempted to check base edge bevel and it appeared to be more than the limit of my adjustable guide, 3.25 degrees. That is, a felt-tip pen mark on the base edge couldn't be touched by the stone even at 3.25 degrees. I checked base flatness and it looked to me like about 1/2" of base nearest the edges was bevelled. So the edge bevel is in addition to the slanted base. At that point, I decided that the board was simply not in acceptable condition, not even remotely "like new". I brought the board to a tech for an expert assessment. He looked at the edges near the nose (in front of the contact point) and compared to the edges along the running length and judged that almost half the base material had already been ground away. He said that it would not be wise to try to return the board to its factory state (1 degree base, I think) or even close. Photo of scuff I thought was no problem: Photo of base with straightedge: In view of these facts, the board's condition was seriously misrepresented, probably unintentionally, but carelessly. I therefore request a full refund. I will happily send the board back if you pay for return shipping. Or, if you find someone else to buy it, I'll send it out wherever you wish upon payment of shipping. Karma? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Where is the warranty on the website? Most of it's in German so I don't think I've seen it. I to take offense to be called stupid but I guess I should have researched things more. I am f-ed here, I posted this on thier Facebook wall too, maybe they'll help out to avoid the negaitive press. I have a 175 SG full race that has the same set up and I have been riding that since last year with 0 problems and 3 times the mileage on it. I just inspected it and there are no hints of a crack so I do wonder if it's a deffect in the 163. I avoid plates after I rode one last year for a while and found it hurt me more than it helped but to avoid the same kind of crack I wonder if a VIST plate would do the trick to prevent the problem. Love my SGs they are the best boards I have ever ridden but so upset at how poorly this one is constucted. Everett http://www.sgsnowboards.com/warranty-safety Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evnewsphoto Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Karma? I already offered to take the board back from Reid and I hope to give him a full refund, I will be happy to ride that board as I always said it was a great board and I think there was nothing wrong with it. Maybe he cast a hex on me, I do wonder. I feel I never did anything wrong towards him but who knows? The thought did cross my mind, but if that's the case I'll be happy to buy back that Karma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evnewsphoto Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 I now see the warranty, had to page down for English. I wonder why they exclude Titanal since that is the majority of what they make, why even have a warranty? I think I am going to try and pour in a ton of epoxy and clamp the hell out of it and hope for the best. I have a race next week and no back up (unless I get the Proton back) I'll have to race it either way. It is crazy that they would break so easily and I do think there is some sort of deffect since my other SG is fine. Thoughts on what I should do to protect that one? Everett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Good to hear that you are making things right. Now, onto the SG. TD1's are a bit tough on boards due to their small contact area. I would recommend that you use as a minimum a polycarbonate/lexan spacer between the binding and board to better distribute the load. Either that or some type of plate or riser system to get the binding off the board completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evnewsphoto Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Given that it won't be replaced via warranty I think I should at least try to repair it in some fashion. Should I use regular epoxy or perhaps something stronger? My coach was talking about "gorilla glue" which I guess is used on concrete, anybody try that? I have seen the hardbooter.com video on making the spacer and I can try that at least aslo. Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread? Did he ever get his board back or is still sitting in Austria? Wondering if he attempted a repair if he did get it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I have a race next week... Gorilla Glue? I don't know what your coach is smoking but he needs to stop. If you read the thread you would've heard the councils of very knowledgeable boarders stating that to attempt a repair is NOT safe. Borrow(steal) a board for the race don't risk every other race in the future attempting a repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Sorry to see that you broke that board but I am not surprised it broke. We had talked about this when you and I rode at Loveland a while ago. The td1 binding is very stiff and has a small footprint and you are flexing that board more because it is softer lenghtways than a glass board. The small disc created a sharp load on the metal and it cracked. If you go on Sean's website he takes a piece of Titanal and snaps it with his hands because it is brittle. Time to get some new bindings that will work on a metal board. I am not trying to put you down or insult here. I imagine you will break your other board as well if you use td1 step ins on it? You are welcome to try out my Sidewinders if you like as I have 2 pairs. The td3 and or sidewinder is way nicer riding than the td1. I will be riding at Loveland this week as I am off work and could let you try bindings if you are interested? I don't think Gorrilla glue would work well to repair a board as it expands as it drys and foams out. I also could set you up with a pair of td3 stepin as I have the parts for that as well. let me know Matt Curtis 303-783-2867 or you could possibly demo some bindings from Bomber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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