Silver Bullet Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 So, I'm prepping for a ride tomorrow, switching the Td3's to a more turny board and realize that I did not loosen the screws last spring. As I loosen the first few I get a bit of a spark and that burnt smelling smoke. The last three screws don't come out. I figure tomorrow I'll pick up a 5mm hex for my power drill and see if that works unless anyone has a better idea. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jak Hof Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Probably galvanic corrosion. I have used a 3/8 rachet with a 5mm bit to break the screws free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 yeah, my td3s do the same thing. the old TD1 stepin heel recievers did it real bad. it's the coating on the aluminum I think. to get it loose use a T-handle or ratchet with the proper bit. to prevent it use a good synthetic grease on the surfaces that touch the center disk. did you notice the burnt gun powder smell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 one trick which can help to loosen frozen fasteners (pun intended) is to rap on the head sharply with a hammer. Place a small nut or something similar on the head so the force of the blow is actually transmitted to the screw. The rap can be quite substantial. This sends quite a shock into the threads and can help dislodge screws without totally destroying the hex socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 +1 on the rap method. I like to use the appropriate bit out a driver set, put a little turning pressure on the screw with a wrench, then tap the driver bit to concentrate the impact down the screw shaft, shouldn't take much impact or pressure to break the bond. Think delicate impact wrench with no worries of stripping the screw head:biggthump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtrappy Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Get a little blow torch and heat up the center disk around the screws only not the whole plate or the screw........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Should not be an issue if using a T handle wrench http://www.wihatools.com/300seri/334serie.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 If all of the above fails and you round out your 4 or 5mm hexes,all is not lost, yet. Use a dremel with a cut-off disc and grind out a slot in the flathead for a kickass slotted screwdriver and use a large vise grip clamped w/superhuman strength to the screwdriver to help turn screw out, apply inward force on driver and turn w/visegrip. Use the other tactics from the others w/ this method, Ok, If this fails , drill press w/helicoils,but thats for later, good luck Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Bullet Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Thanks for the ideas. I'm off to the hardware store for some tools;-) I almost twisted the top off my T wrench last night. And yes, when I loosened a few of the screws, I heard a loud pop and could smell smoke. At least there was no worries about my binding popping off while riding today:o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 BTW, I just want to be clear on this, the bonding is not happening in the threads therefor threadlock is no help it's the surface that touches the heads of the screws. anti seizing compound is really what you want. I said syn grease before but I do use a anti seize compound on some parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronG Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Hey Silver Bullet, they have a tool for this job, it is called an impact driver. You put the 5mm hex bit inside the appropriate sized 3/8" socket, slide the socket on the impact driver and smack it with a hammer. Not only does it transmit the shock to the bolt but it also is spring loaded so that it will twist(unscrew) when impacted with the hammer. You can also use it to tighten bolts but I don't think you would ever want to use and impact driver to tighten, you'll never get them off http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Hey Silver Bullet,<snip> you'll never get them offhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver Listen to this advice... his user name is oldvolvosrule for powder's sake! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Yeah... but OVR fixes aircraft with a sawzall and crowbars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 If the hex head strips out, you may be able to use the next size Torx bit. With a little hammer assist, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronG Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Yeah... but OVR fixes aircraft with a sawzall and crowbars! Brad, you don't know how right you are. I had to pull the fuel bladder out of our airplane the other day and I used a tire iron, seriously! To keep it on topic, remember to back those screws out at the end of the season Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc-alex Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Should not be an issue if using a T handle wrench http://www.wihatools.com/300seri/334serie.htm LOL. This is one of our customers. We make nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 The bonding is not happening in the threads therefor threadlock is no help it's the surface that touches the heads of the screws. So the metal on metal thread contact isn't bonding, it's the screwhead bonding to either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Bullet Posted December 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 Is an impact hammer going to cost me more than a new set of TD3's? A storm is rolling in and I'm not good deep pow with my Speedster 183.... arg.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93481 The trouble will be finding a 5mm impact bit. I think those are a little bigger than the standard bits on the side that goes into the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 So the metal on metal thread contact isn't bonding, it's the screwhead bonding to either? yeah the head is bonding to the binding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulk Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 A trick I picked up years ago...and it applies to all fasteners. Try to "tighten" the stuck bolt first(just enough to hear the fastener give a little), then loosen. sometimes the tool gets a better bite on the fastener and is able to break the bonds without stripping the bolt. this works remarkably well with dissimilar metals.. good luck and Merry X-mas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronG Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 I figured you had this done already. Harbor Freight also sells a larger impact driver with a 1/2" drive on the bottom, I would recommend getting this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530 Next you will need a 1/2" to 3/8" drive reducer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1793 Then you will need a set of 3/8" drive metric hex wrench set http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=98229 Slide the reducer onto the impact driver and then the 5mm hex socket onto the end. Smack that bolt and get it out of there. Now for you machine heads out there, I know that this is a cheeseball way to do this job but it should work. Cost Impact Driver 6.99 Reducer Set 3.99 Hex Sockets 14.99 As a last resort take a large drill and the appropriate sized bit and drill the head off that bolt. Once the head of the bolt is removed the tension will be released and you should be able to extract the balance of the bolt that remains in the board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Bullet Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 I got an impact driver and removed all but one of the bolts. The head exploded on this one. I guess I'm on to the drill. This kind of stuff is way out of my comfort zone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 or find someone who has a set or size you need http://www.toolvice.com/screw-extractors.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyzcanuck Posted December 24, 2009 Report Share Posted December 24, 2009 If only one screw is holding the binding, you may now be able to turn the entire binding on the board, thus releasing the thread tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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