TD3 - few questions

[nils]

Yes, they are the same bails we have been using for over 15 years.

Halleluia

this is great news :)

N

[b0ardski]

the new standard is fintech:biggthump

I'm still shying away from the cables:confused:

[RCrobar]

Hi Fin

New in the TD3:

Extra Thick E-Ring: 7mm total thickness versus 2.5mm of TD2. An amazing amount of absorption and movement of the binding may now be achieved.

Could you elaborate a bit on how more movement is gained with the new thicker e-ring and center disk?

I don’t understand how the new TD3 center disk and thicker e-ring combo were modified to get the improved movement while using the previous TD2 Cant Disk design.

Thanks again for your time.

[Thor VonRippington]

Just got back from the Bomber store...

I got to fondle a set of TD3 and must say these bindings are absolutely beautiful pieces of work.

Congratulations Fin!

You have definitely raised the bar in high performance carving gear.

[Shred Gruumer]

Since I don't see,, well maybe I haven't found it yet.. but I have old E-rings on my TD2's several sets and the rubber color and properties have definetley changed not to mention dry cracking.. so they need replacement... I don't see the TD2 E-rings or did I just not find it on the site...

But if Im going to buy new E-rings will a TD2 to TD3 E-ring conversion kit be offered?

Anyone?...

Never Mind... I guess I just buy a second board kit and Im done.... but I still don't see E-Rings for TD2's Still selling them?

[Jack M]

Hi Fin

Could you elaborate a bit on how more movement is gained with the new thicker e-ring and center disk?

I don’t understand how the new TD3 center disk and thicker e-ring combo were modified to get the improved movement while using the previous TD2 Cant Disk design.

Thanks again for your time.

The cant disc floats on top of the e-ring. So the old ones didn't need to be modified. The center disc holds the cant disc down against the e-ring, but the cant disc is free to squish the e-ring further. The amount of suspension "travel" is purely determined by the thickness of the e-ring.

[JoeK.inVt]

The cant disc floats on top of the e-ring. So the old ones didn't need to be modified. The center disc holds the cant disc down against the e-ring, but the cant disc is free to squish the e-ring further. The amount of suspension "travel" is purely determined by the thickness of the e-ring.

Doesn't that put a lot of stress on the mounting screws/inserts while riding?

[Mike T]

Doesn't that put a lot of stress on the mounting screws/inserts while riding?

I've always wondered this as well, specifically with regards to the TD2 w/ suspension kit.

[pokkis]

More you as rider push e-ring less force there is for screws.

[Mike T]

More you as rider push e-ring less force there is for screws.

To put it another way: might this make the screws prone to loosening?

[JoeK.inVt]

To put it another way: might this make the screws prone to loosening?

More like weakening or even tearing out the inserts, but that is a valid point as well.

[bschurman]

Doesn't that put a lot of stress on the mounting screws/inserts while riding?

The center disc is mounted on the board. Since it is flat on the board it does not move once mounted so there is no lateral stress on the bolts. The cant merely floats around the center disc.

[RCrobar]

Thanks for responding Jack.

The amount of suspension "travel" is purely determined by the thickness of the e-ring.

Fin, Jack, for discussion sake, I have a hypothetical question.

Is it possible to use the older and thinner TD2 (2mm thick) e-ring with the new TD3 center disk? The goal here would be to use a thinner e-ring to maximize the travel.

Would the new, thicker TD3 center disks with longer mounting srews place too much stress on the board inserts? Would or could this damage the bindings in any way?

[JoeK.inVt]

The center disc is mounted on the board. Since it is flat on the board it does not move once mounted so there is no lateral stress on the bolts. The cant merely floats around the center disc.

I was thinking that the disc floated as well. Thanks.

[fin]

You guys are correct, the entire suspension system of the TD2 and TD3 is based from the fact the cant disk floats on top of the E-Ring and is captured by the Center Disk. You are never really standing on aluminum, all your body weight is on the E-Ring.

There are some big dimensional changes of the TD2 vs the TD3:

TD2: E-Ring is about 2.5mm thick and has about a .5mm preload (compressed) when installed. So total height when installed is 2mm.

TD3: E-Ring is 7mm thick and has about a 1mm preload (compressed) when installed. So total height when installed is 6mm.

Once again TD2 and TD3 Cant Disks are the same. So your TD2 Cants disks will work with TD3 bindings and visa versa.

RCrobar: I don’t understand how the new TD3 center disk and thicker e-ring combo were modified to get the improved movement while using the previous TD2 Cant Disk design.

Rob, as you can see from above, we have increased the height of the suspension system by 3 times the TD2. This gives you a ton of more movement, especially if you go with the Yellow (soft) E-Rings. And not to mention we are now using a new super-secret, have to kill you if I told you, laser-beam inspired, material designed just for this application.

JoeK.inVt and Mike T: As was already described, the Center Disk actually sits flush on the board the entire time. So your mounting screws are clamping down on a solid. If we put some compressible material (been there, done that) under the Center Disk it would be like bolting down a pillow, hard to do and the screws want to come loose as you push down. This isolated two pieces system actually makes for a very board friendly binding. Think of the E-Ring as a big absorber, it alleviates forces on the board and inserts. Even with the thinner TD2 E-Rings our track record for the past 6 years has shown the TD2 to be very safe on all boards, even metal top sheeted ones.

Shred Gruumer: yep, still selling TD2 E-rings. However, we are sold out of the Yellow TD2 E-rings.

Hard Core Thor: Did you take some of my tools? My favorite hammer is missing :p

[Mike T]

I get it now - thanks for the explanation Fin.

[Jack M]

Is it possible to use the older and thinner TD2 (2mm thick) e-ring with the new TD3 center disk? The goal here would be to use a thinner e-ring to maximize the travel.

That's not travel, that's slop. Sure it would be possible, but probably not good for the bindings and definitely not warrantied. (Same with sizing your bindings to your boot so you can close them with your pinky finger :p)

[RCrobar]

TD2: E-Ring is about 2.5mm thick and has about a .5mm preload (compressed) when installed. So total height when installed is 2mm.

TD3: E-Ring is 7mm thick and has about a 1mm preload (compressed) when installed. So total height when installed is 6mm.

Rob, as you can see from above, we have increased the height of the suspension system by 3 times the TD2. This gives you a ton of more movement, especially if you go with the Yellow (soft) E-Rings. And not to mention we are now using a new super-secret, have to kill you if I told you, laser-beam inspired, material designed just for this application.

Thanks Fin, it all makes sense now.

Hey Jack, the soup Nazi says ... "No slop for YOU!":D

[Thor VonRippington]

Hard Core Thor: Did you take some of my tools?

Uh.. yeah... I sharked your favorite tools

They're being held hostage until I get my bindings

[carvedog]

I thought I posted this on one of the other TD3 threads but not sure.

So I bought a pair of Fire shells in my size that are the Burton step ins. I didn't really care about the step in at the time as you can move the heels or replace them ( can't quite remember ) but I have some extra heels and stuff.

Edit below.

Wow that posted without me hitting the button. Weirdness on the interweb today.

So to continue. Can these be modded with a version of the new heels to work with TD3 SI? Fin I am trying to spend a bunch of money with Bomber this year to do my part to support the economy.

[Pow]

I thought burton fires were intec compatible, but i could be mistaken.

taken from the carvers almanac:

• Burton made several Intec compatible boots that are recommended:
  • Burton Wind, 4-buckle + strap. Also, a women's version was made ('99), using a different last, designed for a lower calf position.
    
  • Burton Fire, 4-buckle + strap. Stiffer then the Wind, with a slightly taller cuff.
    
  • Burton Ice ('00), 3-buckle + strap, designed for women.

[BadBrad]

I thought I posted this on one of the other TD3 threads but not sure.

So I bought a pair of Fire shells in my size that are the Burton step ins. I didn't really care about the step in at the time as you can move the heels or replace them ( can't quite remember ) but I have some extra heels and stuff.

Edit below.

Wow that posted without me hitting the button. Weirdness on the interweb today.

So to continue. Can these be modded with a version of the new heels to work with TD3 SI? Fin I am trying to spend a bunch of money with Bomber this year to do my part to support the economy.

I put a set of Intec heels on my Burton Wind boots, and your Fire boots should be compatible as well. The new Fintec heels use the Intec standard so they will work as well.

Some of the older Burton boots, like the Reactors I used to ride, do not accept Intec heels, but since yours will accept the Burton step-ins (probably Physics), then they will also accept the Intec or Fintec heels.

[carvedog]

Thanks guys. I actually did do some searches a couple of different ways and didn't find anything. Must not have hit the right terms.

So the Fire boot is the one that is dark and slightly clear ( not the super translucent one) it has a the heel with the two collars recessed into it, that appear to fit over two posts in the binding. So I am assuming this is for the physics step in of some kind.

And by replacing this entire heel with the Fintech heel - does it just screw right on? - I will be good to go. Once I get the TD3 that is.

[BadBrad]

Yes, it should just screw right on. Take a look at your boot. You should see 4 screws going into the bottom of the heel. If they are like my Burton Wind boots, these screw into metal plates that are inside the boot under the footbed. The Fintech heels will screw in just the same. Those threaded metal plates inside the Burton boots are a nice feature -- on some boots the screws just thread into the plastic boot sheel, which isn't as strong.

[pokkis]

Take here look of Burton heel, there you see Intec compatiple or not quite easily