bobdea Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 what are you guys riding for plates? my options are, td2 with the suspension kit, s-flex(if it fits) and the standard polycarb home depot special. Just wondering what's working the best and who's tried what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 TD2 w/ suspension kit. Basically no marks on the topsheet with about 15 days on the board so far this season. Sflex should fit, but it may be more than you need for this killer board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 TD2 w/ suspension kit. Basically no marks on the topsheet with about 15 days on the board so far this season.Sflex should fit, but it may be more than you need for this killer board. yeah, everyone and I mean everyone is raving about them I will soon be part of the bandwagon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I use the TD2 Ti SI with suspension kit. You can read a review overhere. I don't need another board anymore Here is my review of the Coiler Schtubby X2. Thanks for making this board by Bruce Varsava and the graphics by Shred Gruumer Boardspecs: 171 x 20 x 13,2 SCR, nose width 24,5 back width 24 cm, 6 mm taper. Materials and characteristics: Tri-Titanal Radial Flex, X-Quad Vibromatic Dampening, Carbon Kore, Rc-55 edges, Nanospeed base. Tuned edges: 88 degree and -1/2 degree. Stance: 50,5 cm, fr. 57 b. 52, no cant no lift. Bindings: Bomber TD2 Ti SI, yellow elastomere, suspension kit. Boots: Deeluxe Track 700 Bomber BTS yellow, custom Strolz foam injected liner, mondo 27. Rider: mediocre technique, 44 years, 83 kgs, 179cm. Ridingcircumstances: I rode this new board in old artificial snow, blue ice with fresh cover, fresh spring snow, slushy springsnow, hardpacked morning snow. The Schtubby is an unique board with a middle SCR of 13 m. Middle to long turns are very stable and with big confidence to ride. Use some weight and energy and you can also do some relatively short turns. Crowdy icy passages are no prob for this board. Also did I do some moguls (which I don't like because you are getting tired for no use). I could ride this board without getting to tired at the end of the day, this board is a real energysaver. The Schtubby is also suitable for extremecarving due to the moderate angles you can ride. I did some front laid turns with two hands and a hip in the snow. Still have to exercise my backside. The board laughs at icy patches. You just draw a line through it without skidding or shattering. Due to the nanospeed base the board is very fast, even when there is almost no wax on it. Conclusion: I now know why the people on the other side of the pond love this Schtubby: very versatile board due to the middle long SCR and relatively shortness. No shattering or skidding noticed. Bumpy snow or ice is no issue for this board. Due to the used materials the board absorbes almost anything without effort it seems. Changing radius, even in the turns, is possible without putting too much energy in it. The board is snappy and pops without giving too much rebound. So the control is in balance. Just enough with my weight. But Bruce can make the flex and rebound custommade for you. Just talk to the man, and he makes any board you want. My thirth canadian Coilerboard is on the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I was staying in the condo with Bruce at the ECES. I showed him some plex spacers that Ben Schurman had made for me to put on my Prior metal 177 (now sold). Bruce quickly dismissed them out of hand. "Nah, you don't need those". So I didn't bother with them and the board is fine. I'm riding TD2-Ti SI with medium (purple) e-rings. Suspension kit - not sure why anyone would want to add a layer of mush to anything but an all-mtn carver or freeride board. Why take a performance hit when the Coiler metals are already so smooth and comfortable anyway? You might consider the Safari specs - 170cm x 155cm x 14m x 21cm. I am absolutely loving it. Had it out for a week at Sugarloaf on really fast chalk and also in an accumulating snowfall. The board ruled all. I'm loving the 21cm waist - feels like a snowboard again!!! I'm riding 57/57 - lowest in years and it's a revelation. The load is more balanced on both legs now and I feel like I can work the board better with both feet. On the narrow boards my front leg does most of the work. 14m, I wouldn't want it any shorter. It's perfect for me. Nice and stable but I can tighten it up when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 yeah - what Jack said - when I ordered the schtubby I asked Bruce and he said my current setup (TD2 with Purple bumpers) is fine - no need to change it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 No schtubby here, but my AM-T is holding up just fine with TD2's and yellow rings. I did want to try a suspension kit but now Jack has me thinking otherwise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 Wider is better, as Swoard folks have said for long time ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I went skinny on my Schtubby - 19cm waist - but that is wider than my last 3 18 waist boards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I have an old metal, the Original Scthubby X1 with lots of time on it.. I run TD2-with purple rings and haven't seen anything, I pulled the bindings off recently and with a little rub a dub dub.. not even markings exist... topsheet is still clean after 3 years.. All the other metals I have (Coilers of course) have the same set up.. If there is a concern..I don't see it.. I think anything can be bad on anything.. its how your treat and ride your schnitt!! its like my iphone.. i treat it like a computer.. I don't throw it in the toilet and then expect it to work everytime... especially if it hits a real coiler when I throw it in there!! hehe.. Sit back and enjoy the ride said Shred.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I've been using TD2's on Coiler metals without lexan plates all season. Some have suspension kits some don't. I've now got a pair of F2's on my NSR2 185. (You may recall I post I made earlier in the season where I called myself Crash Test Dummy...). I should note that all my Coiler T's were built before Bruce added his latest and greatest under-the-inserts-strengthening. No damage to speak of, and I've got at least 200 hours of riding time on them as a group. I honestly that the suspension kit may cause more problems than it solves given that 1) The topsheeter Coilers seem to stand up just fine with original TD2's and 2) as others have pointed out, if you don't get the torque on all 4 center disk screws balanced nearly perfectly with a suspension kit, loose screws are common. I would agree with those who have said that you don't need the suspension kit with Coiler metals for the ride quality, I notice the lift but not a change in feel. To be brutally honest I actually like the way the F2's feel on my NSR better than the way TD2's feel. I feel better response toe to heel (more noticeable on harder snow) and like the way the bails feel side to side. For the record I've always used TD2 in Intec for as the bail version doesn't feel any different to me and I find that the design is such that you gave to practically hurt yourself getting them closed and open. The F2 bails are more user friendly and don't require as much force to get a positive closure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I'm seriously considering making that call to coiler, It's hard to believe this much good feedback is hype. I've been using Cateks with the D3 elastomer, has anyone had any experience with that? Or should I order a pair of TD2's for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted March 28, 2008 Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 No Hype hear..unless its some amazing payoff marketing sceme...which Bruce doen't do anything unless it improves performance!! Some times I ride better the more money you throw at me!!:) This is just me..but I would not put the cateks on them.... TD2 and F2's are a very safe bet... Cateks.. well you will have to take your chances with them.. if you don't have to.. I would say don't.. I haven't heard anyone yet with Cateks on them so lets see what they say.. But from what Bruces feedback has been ..would be not to risk it since he has seen more damage on other metals with cateks than TD2's Then again.. like the post above ,,Bruce uses reinforcement, a special MagnaPro Core retention strips over the inserts which also aid in the Powerflex Karbon Kore dispersion over the entire flex pattern out to the Vibromatic Sorbathane dampening.. No Hype here said Shred..!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted March 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2008 I emailed Bruce and what he said about the cateks " Still not sure about Cateks as they tend to pull the inserts up too much and can cause concerns there. I think the boards could now take it but anyone using them has been using plates and that has worked out fine. So no data on bare Cateks on board." I was just wondering more about feel with my question, with the metal race decks I certainly like the feel the plates be them hangl or s-flex to a point, the suspension kit I actually have learned to like on everything from metal racey things to the old narrow bards from the 90's that in the 90's I wanted the stiffest interface possible. The stubbies seem radically different so I was wondering about general preference, sounds like a naked td2 might fit the bill. Jack, the board is built already, it came down to me telling Bruce I wanted a sorta turny board to ride on crowded days and I kinda just said build me something that you'd think I'd like because at this point he probably knows what I like better than I do. wide waisted boards are amazing in the metal flavors I'm a BIG fan of them, the one thing about my prior as far as shape goes that I don't like is I feel it's a tad narrow where just a couple years ago 19.5 was my preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 Thanks, so it sounds like TD2's or a pair of F2's. Probably I will go with a pair of TD2's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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