Wolf

Thanks for the quick photo. I have some NOS spare Raichles and they measured 33mm to the top of the heel ledge. So, your UPZ boots are 2-3mm higher. Looks like the shim/rubber band approach is needed.

slabber - You have some workarounds but I'm still curious why your heel bail is so low compared with the boot ledge. I've used lots of TD3s over the years and never had this issue, but I've always used Raichle/Deeluxe boots. Maybe the heel ledge on UPZs is higher, but I thought that was standardized between brands. Here are two photos showing how high the heel bail is on two sets of my TD3s - the heel bail is only slightly lower than the heel ledge. A third photo has a scale showing the height of the heel ledge on my boot. Does your UPZ boot measure the same?

I think that should work. But in the prior photo without the boot, you can see that the bail is drooping too low. On my bindings, the curved part of the bail is pretty much horizontal while yours is drooping down at an angle. I'll have to sleep on it and see if I can think of anything else that could cause that.

I just checked my boots in two different TD3 standard bindings and my heel bails are higher relative to the boot ledge than yours (but I have Raichle SB series shells). So there's something about your setup that isn't quite right. Does the heel pad on your boot sit parallel on top of the heel block? From your picture it almost looks like the whole boot might be tilted up in the back (as might happen if the toe block is too low).

There are three different varieties of toe/heel blocks for TD3s. If your rear bail goes so low that you can't get the boot's heel ledge under it easily, your heel block might actually be a toe block. The toe block lets the bail drop lower. This page tells you how to identify which sole block is which: https://www.bomberonline.com/TD3-Sole-Block_p_50.html

I have two pairs, one pair black one gray. I'll PM you.

I have a set. PM'd you...

I'm just curious. Donek says: "The Secret’s metallic construction is damper than a titanal construction race board, yet as durable as traditional constructions. How can you go wrong there." Has anyone figured the details of what's inside a secret construction board?

Sorry, didn't mean to imply they only work with Raichle/Deeluxe. I just happen to know the size range for those on Catek short plates.

As a public service, let me note that those are the short plate version and should fit Raichle/Deeluxe boots up to Mondo 27.

I think most here would say that all of your gear is due for an upgrade, but you can still have plenty of fun on your Burton boards if you ride groomers on nice days without ice. That said, the only new bindings you can get now with 3-hole disks for Burton are Bombers. Used Catek's may come with "combo" 3-hole/4-hole plates. And the old Burton designs were re-marketed under the Ibex brand and those might still be available, but they are the same as the old Burton's. Others here have much more expertise than me concerning technological advancements in boots and boards and you'll get good advice to upgrade those. But if running you old Burton boards with new bindings is a consideration that will impact your binding choices.

I goofed and actually have a 0 degree and a 6 degree, but no 3 degree. If anyone out there has any 3 degree disks for Barry I'm sure he'd really appreciate it.

I have one 0 degree and one 3 degree. $15 each?

To build on what snowburn said, here's a heel block where the bail rest has been filed/Dremeled/milled down to make it function as a toe block. The silver aluminum is where the material has been removed. I bought the bindings like this (used) so I don't know exactly what tool was used to remove the material.

It's not a pickup truck but maybe it will inspire some ideas. The forward part has vertical posts consisting of 1/2 inch electrical conduit covered with pipe insulation foam. Four boards with bindings can fit in the slots, with the noses going between the car's seats. The boards fan out toward the back to allow space for the bindings. And the boards are tilted upward in the front to give clearance underneath to reach the shifter and hand brake. By tilting the boards up like this, you might be able to fit longer boards in your truck bed. The rest of the rack forms a framework to lay a plastic tarp in to catch water.

Bump for a new season coming up....

Yes. It's Loud's Island (on Wikipedia). You have a thousand times more maintenance to keep up with on your cutter but it sure looks nice in that photo. I'm only a summer resident in Maine in an old family house that I now have. Lot's of maintenance to do there too on a 1905 house.

I'll be refinishing the paint and varnish on a kayak on the crappy days. I'll be using another kayak on the nice days.

Interested, sent you a PM.

I decided that investing in some future/maybe parts is kinda dumb, so I'm going to pass. Daveo's offer is therefore still available.

daveo - I use a step-in rear and bail front, and have been wanting to try F2 bindings. So, your parts offer is tempting if I eventually get a set of F2 bail bindings too. Could you tell me how much you'd need for shipping to Ohio, USA zip 44646? Thanks...

Not in the same league at all as Scottishsurfer, but I did use my monocrome printer to make a label to cover up the previous owners name on my top sheet. And the top sheet was a custom for that previous owner.

That's really nice! Is there an elastomer ring or pad under the binding, or does the polycarbonate plate give some isolation?

The bindings arrived, as described and shipped even faster than before. Plus, Scott even included a few extra odds and ends in the package. I must have made the "preferred customer" list :). Thanks again, Scott!

The risk they are under in downhill and super G is really scary. On a brighter note, Maxence Muzaton had an incredible save a couple of weeks ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GH_SAhq2pok