Jack M

Yeah, that's the whole point of the norm. Glad you found it helpful. It is a big deal. If you can truly carve your softboots on the greens, changing edges before the board points downhill and all, then you're ready for hardboots. But if you can't do that, you should really get it down before switching. Why go to unfamiliar more responsive equipment to learn a new skill when you can do it on familiar equipment that is more forgiving? That would make no sense, and only make it harder. That would be like riding your bicycle and deciding you want to learn how to wheelie, so you switch to a motorcycle first.

Not a bad idea, but it wouldn't have cumulative numerical ratings. We'll discuss. Yo... see the little red and white alert triangle in the upper right of each post? That reports the post to the admins/mods as needing review and possible action.

Have they ever ridden it? I don't see how they can pass judgement without riding it. ;) http://www.backcountry.com/store/newsletter/a704/Top-Flops-of-2008.html?sssdmh=dm10.107569&cmp_id=EM_CON1031a2&mv_pc=r202 more monoboot info: http://www.natives.co.uk/news/2003/0703/29mono.htm

fail.

Stradivarius violins are the best.

Holy krap where did you find that?

dude? you were the downhill rider, you were both in motion, not your fault. paint a small silhouette of a softbooter on the nose of your board - you got one! ;)

Nope, not impossible. You should be able to do it on a green circle trail, and that's all I'm saying about the downhill edge and the norm. If you can do those on a green circle, then you're ready to try hardboots... on a green circle. And there's no shame in that at all. It very well may if you can carve your softies already. If so, then you should be carving up the greens on hardboots right away. Just don't expect miracles on the blacks on day one.

we have a winner!

Then I've got you by 1 year, son. ;) If you're just looking to bomb the hill and go fast, then sure, have at it. But if you want to carve nice round turns leaving C-shaped pencil-thin lines in the snow, you'll have an easier time switching to hardboots if you already know how to carve the downhill edge with your softboots and freeride board.

come on, wimp. It's 6% and very drinkable. :p

You need to try this then... As for PBR, I'm convinced the only people who drink it are either on a very tight budget, or have forced themselves to acquire a taste for it so they can rock the slum-chic look.

I had that problem, but I thought it was because my shells were too big (which they are) but it sounds like your shells are probably the right size. I solved my problem by switching back to my old Thermoflex liners. If you don't have those, they're now made by Intuition. http://www.intuitionliners.com/products2.htm the "Alpine" liner is what they are.

This is The Norm. It's a practice drill to help people get started carving. It's not an everyday technique for carving around. Carving the downhill edge - can you change edges and begin carving your next turn before your board points downhill? Mastering these two things, especially the downhill edge, will make the transition to hardboots 10 times easier and more enjoyable. If you can't do those things on softboots, forget about hardboots and all these questions until you can.

It's such a shame that Stella is most people's first impression of "Belgian" beer.

is that every now and then a real gem gets posted... Guess which one of these studs is Billy Bordy...

PBR. There, I said it. And Heineken. Unless you like skunky beer I guess.

The only reason to start out in ski boots is if you are also an avid skier and want to switch back and forth during the day. Deeluxe Track 700 - stiff but not too stiff. Bomber TD3 (will work with ski boots if you go that way) A Coiler, Donek, or Prior metal board about 180-185 and at least 19.5cm wide. Please note that a very fast board and an ice board are two different things. For serious ice you want something shorter with a shorter sidecut radius so that you can get turns around without building up too much speed. A fast board will be longer and have a radius north of 13m. Eventually you'll need both, but it sounds like you'll be able to start with the fast board, *IF* you can already *CARVE* your softboot gear. Can you do the Norm? And carve the downhill edge? If the answer to those questions are no, or "well, kinda" then you should start on something medium like a 175.

Looks like you had the tools, talent, and cajones. I wouldn't trust myself with that job! Thanks for the interesting pics.

Where's the X1?

I emailed my friend yesterday and didn't hear back, so I just called him now and got voicemail. Just gimme a little more time!

It's not really big brother, because there is no expectation of privacy at work. But I had just never seen this stuff with my own eyes, so I thought it was interesting.

Well you should assume you are regardless, but here is one way to know... Control panel >> Admin Tools >> Services. If you have enstart in there, they know everything. It's forensic software: http://www.guidancesoftware.com/products/ef_index.aspx If you remove or disable it, you will probably get a talking-to, or worse, so use this info at your own risk.

I found the Palo to be very enjoyable for about the first 6 to 8 ounces. After that I was kind of muscling my way through it. It's just so thick and chewy, dare I say syrupy. Almost too much. And the wood flavor is nice, but again for me it starts out as a good thing but gets to be too much after several sips. Is there any point to aging filtered beer? I would think without any sediment in the bottle there'd be nothing happening...? The Leviathan is filtered. Palo is not, as I'm sure you know. Try the Leviathan. Have you tried Samichlaus? That will put hair on your chest.

awesome Jeff. can't wait to see it in action.