dhamann

@dredman still looking? these are black and not green/yellow so not sure if they're exactly what you're after. *looking for large race tongues for 325's. MP30 if anyone finds that needle in the haystack.

agreed. existing flex theories turned 90 degrees. most boot shells have flex controls as well such as different stiffness of springs rather than a locked in downhill ski boot. extreme odor control. wrap only. power straps and laces on liners are a royal pain to deal with, especially if adjustments must be made after a few runs, etc. stiff. heel hold. toe box wiggle room. high cuff. affordable. i personally run non-stock liners in both soft boots and hard boots.

never rode the force dlx, but tried the Union FC and lasted a day and a half. bolt connection from highback to baseplate cracked the highback at a bx event. couldn't take the force from carving i guess. i remember it did have a very responsive ride. At the time, I gave Union the benefit of the doubt and tried a more forgiving travis rice model binding. that lasted a little longer, but blew a toe strap during an event and walked down the rest of the course i was so disgusted. i'll never consider Union as a binding option again. hassle dealing with warranty, refund, exchange, etc., nevermind going without a binding for two weeks. Now odrives are a great binding. i run +33-39 on front and anywhere between +12-21 on back foot. don't really "need" to rotate the highback as i thought i'd need to too prior to buying and trying. they're just a solid hold and solid response kind of binding... if that's what you're looking for. if you want a binding with more give, look elsewhere. i've had to replace a couple ratchets and a ladder strap or two over the past couple years. still holding up pretty good. some ankle strap integrity is disappearing slightly, or maybe i'm just used to the support and now wanting more. Flow NX2 - CX. similar hold and response as an odrive but more comfortable and doesn't wreck your boot shells. only drawback from these is the hassle of getting in/out. also the whole forward lean deal. i can't get my front foot (0 lean) ankle strap as tight as i'd like... as to cut off circulation. however, they're worth the compromise. ya ya, can't rotate this highback either. lightweight

Nice board. Ninja-esque for the right rider. Good luck selling.

say's 325 and 29.5 on inside of shell. 319 on outside of heel. no idea of year. 12+yrs? shell only. $50 +shipping

Where’s he work? Hint hint

@powdahbonz That’s the moonlight challenge team GS thing, right? Gotta skip that one this year. I don’t see anything on Shawnee site about a banked event. That night is a fun one regardless. Timing just not working out for me this year.

for those interested; list em. 7th Annual Slash & Berm Banked Slalom (creative features/layout through woods, over boxes, jumps etc) Killington, VT 3/6-3/8/2020 (3/6 shops, 3/7 open, 3/8 groms) https://www.killington.com/things-to-do/events/events-calendar/slash-and-berm 9th Annual Mike Baker Banked Slalom (participate at own risk) Waterville Valley, NH 3/6/2020 https://www.waterville.com/calendar/2018/3/1/6th-annual-mike-baker-banked-slalom-cxcpm 5th Annual Sidesurfers Banked Slalom (mostly hand dug/shaped, but some groomed banks/features too) Sugarbush, VT 3/14/2020 https://www.sugarbush.com/event/sidesurfers-banked-slalom-vt-sugarbush/ The Vermont Open (mostly groomed, some hand digging and creativity throughout the course) Stratton, VT 3/14-3/15/2020 (2 day event) https://www.stratton.com/things-to-do/events/the-vermont-open 10th Annual Sugarloaf Banked Slalom (big. the big one) Sugarloaf, ME 3/21=3/22/2020 https://www.sugarloaf.com/events-calendar/banked-slalom-x15344 Loon has done the Methodology event (banked slalom/method contest) the past couple of years. Typically conflicts with Loaf. It's not listed yet in their events. TBD

will be out tomorrow (bell to bell) through Tuesday.

lot's of folks here like the NX2 so thought i'd give em a wirl. after my first run i almost took them off and threw them in the dumpster. i couldn't figure out the forward lean which completely ruined my first run. cursed the whole way down. i counted to ten and took a few breath's. found the forward lean adjustment and was better. wish i could get more out of the rear highback for forward lean, but oh well. the little spin mechanism doesn't lock in place so i have to keep making sure it's maxed out periodically throughout the day. since i prefer to max out ratchets, i treat the straps like regular bindings cause the flip down highback exit/entry does not work for me. place boot in binding, lightly snug ratchets, then flip the highback up, then crank down on ratchets. it does take longer to get in/out of, but the binding performs great and i'd have to say it is a little more comfortable that a regular strap binding. it's worth the hassle to me (for now). the other bindings i have and would compare them to as far as response and stiffness is the now odrive, but straps are a little more comfortable on the flow. however, also a little more hassle on entry/exit. mostly exit. i loosen ratchets only to remove boot, and they do get stuck a little sometimes. only have a few days on these and i might just get sick of the hassle of the whole system that makes up this binding. they're worth a try and wouldn't hesitate on recommending them to someone who is looking for a very good softboot carving binding. maybe a starter softboot carver, given the price point. they seem to always be on sale. very responsive and built for aggressive freeride and carving though.

solid boot. stiffest softboot i've ever ridden. i prefer a higher cuff liner so i swapped out to the SBC intuition wrap. bulky shell, yes. however, if your bindings and board width can accommodate i highly recommend. triple boa system is great once you find your money spot with them. i only have one day on them so this is an initial impression review. it took many adjustments to get snug without loosing blood flow. i found that if you just snug up that third interior plate boa and crank the rest to your liking, you're good. the three boa's regulate the top part of the boot, the lower part and then the little plate on the front of the ankle. i've had the ride insano the past few years and i think i've found another great preferred alternative. we'll see how the construction of the boot holds up. tested with Flow NX2-CX fusion bindings and a pretty stiff, tight sidecut bx board.

Quick late afternoon sesh today. Yup. Plenty of ice and scratch to wash out on. Did what I could with a “new to me” k68. Low angle stuff is ok in spots. Softy slarving tomorrow in the sun and Friday morning if anyone’s out and about.

I’m in for a late December build. Might spill into January he told me.

Any boot? I have some old deeluxe Suzuka. Shells only. 10-12yrs old I think. Good starter boot. Mondo 30

Rome Folsom. Never ridden. 5yrs old at least. I can take some pics for you if interested.

Enjoy tote rode and candyside. Be up there early December. It’s gondola rides on Friday for me. @RobertAlexander ? @Atom Ant ? Maybe a few on Saturday too. Let the games begin!

lava. think, the snow is lava. no touch. btw, not referring to euro carves. that, you still need to teach me.

yes. extremely assisted toeside falling leaf skid carves. sure. i guess it's all fun, but geez...

Only switch in softboots. Nah this safesport thing makes it too serious. That’s what I meant. Associated costs also turn that dial up in any competition. PSA: And please stop the elbow carving... for the love of snowboarding!

I’m seeing that USASA just isn’t for recreational adults. Recreation for anyone really. Too serious and too rich for my blood. Too bad. Early season memberships used to be $80/yr. Now it’s $100. Doubling race events into one day sounds great (two GS, two SL) and it is a lot of fun but if you do only one day of racing GS/SL it costs $260 for the day. 100 membership and 40/race for two runs per event. And now this safesport thing? Nah. Not for me. It’s not the xgames or race to the cup. Most of us simply love snowboarding and might enjoy hitting gates on occasion but it comes at a pretty significant cost now with usasa. If your pockets are deeper than mine, I will say that the Maine series does a great job and has some of the best adult competition in New England for snowboard racing. Aside from any banked slalom event of course. Freeriding is where it’s at anyways. Always been. Always will. Any racing should have zero affect on that.

i now use the gecko cross with red bumpers and installed asymmetrically, correlated to binding angles. also use the gecko stealths with red bumpers, but i did have to get the taller 10mm insert extensions as opposed to the 5mm ones with black bumpers that come with the stealths. FYI: gecko cross/stealth/free plates are all too wide to put on an alpine board, say 20cm waist. need the carve plate to use alpine. doh!

M: 24.5 - 27.5 ridden only five times. has cants at heel/toe on both. no lift blocks, the cant wedges. they came with a board i just got. can't use em cause they're too small for me. brand spankin new though. $170 SOLD

some initial thoughts i had last year after riding the gecko cross plates in the thread above^^^^^ (btw, only the carve gecko plates fit alpine boards. the cross didn't fit a 20cm board. the bumpers hung over the edges. i don't know specifically, but i'd guess a 24cm might be a minimum waist. that spec is probably on the apex site somewhere, or you could ask. the carves have a minimum width too. might not fit an MK or a skinnier virus board for example... not that you'd want to put the carve plates on every board. just saying.) after riding the cross plates, i now prefer only riding the 10mm red bumpers since i guess i'm used to riding the gecko plates now. i also use the 10mm red bumpers with the stealth's. yes, this is an added cost to needing 10mm insert extensions because the gecko stealths come with 5mm insert extensions and plastic bumpers (what is for sale above). i've heard the plastic bumpers have fallen out from some other riders when riding aggressively resulting in excessive chatter and didn't know if anyone could use some extra's which is why i put them up for sale here. the 10mm bumpers work better for me with size 12 (mondo 30) boots... even though i have wide boards etc i still like to have my heels/toes pretty much right over the edges. quicker edge to edge. the rise helps with increased angulation and to dig deeper ruts for skiers to fall into as well as with dampening. somewhat of a balance/trade-off, given personal preferences. power plates are a good plate to start with if you can get em for a good deal. they do rail! for me they were just too heavy after riding them for a few years (then stepping into gecko's), have seven screws per binding, plus four binding screws. i just got sick of dealing with em... especially removing every time to wax/tune, checking tightness of screws/bolts, changing boards, etc. really too complicated/hassle with getting more cants/rubber erings/2nd board kit, etc. geckos do not have a canting option, but softboots flex easier than hardboots so i think canting is not really needed. its just a gimmick for softboot marketing if you ask me. a little mental reinforcement too. best of luck on your selection. there's plenty of info on this site, but you honestly gotta try em out for yourself. what works for someone else, might not work for you.

No. I ride them with 10mm insert extensions and rubber bumpers. The 5mm insert extensions and black plastic bumpers what came with the stealths is what is up for grabs.

Score! Adding titanal and a ptex topsheet to this (almost) exact build for next year. Very nice board and thanks for sharing.