JRAZZ

Sorry guys, Apparently we were too late to the party. Eldora just told me that all the chairs have been spoken for. :(

I'm definitely getting one :) Can't make any promises but I should be able to get there with a small truck. Willing to help out fellow BOLs...

Catek WC...? Fintec...? Steel receiver...? Naaaahhh..... It'll never work.

Cool! If you're here around Sunday come over to the LCI dark side (Loveland - Sunday morning)

The divide areas (a-basin/Loveland) do seem to do better late in the season. This year it seems that we are going slushy early. Warm temps and dry in the forecast so don't get yer hopes up.

I thing we're talking about the binding angle e.i. going from 45/40 to 45/35 and not reducing heel lift.

That makes sense which makes me question it. :D Seriously, what's the difference between canting outwards and dropping the angle? What's the downside to reducing the angle? I'm probably going to try it but just curious as to what the trade off is.

N+1

Sooo.... now there's three of us with yellow jackets and blue pants.

I tried to distill what I read here and try it out today. My issue is not that I don't know I should bend more. It's that I seem to not be able to. Glad to say I did have results though! Ended up just reducing the front lift by 1 degree. That's all. Amazing how such a small change makes such a big difference. I was able to get much lower and angulate much better. Definitely had a much more solid heel turn. Best part? Up until now I would have my back leg burning at me while the front was almost not in the game. This time I was much more "balanced". I'm curious about the outward cant in the rear boot... It felt as though my rear knee was right behind the front knee, e.i. not very stable. Not horrible but I'm curious to see if the outward canting you speak of would make me more stable.

Winter came back (ish)... Kinda cold up here at Lovey. So cold even Mr. Ice had issues. Small group today, Monodude came back from injury and was rippin as were Oddjob, Mr. Cold, and Mr Mario (who was on his Hawaiian special). Not sure if the snow was good or not but certainly felt like winter up there! Probably laid down ~2" in an hour or so. This led to some "interesting times" where some people found themselves going way too fast on an ungroomed ice field in a white-out. Can't complain, it was fun!

I think I've got my setup pretty close to where I want it but still have one nagging issue. I turn to the interforum in hope of a solution. My setup is as follows (pics below): Board: Steepwater Plow (25.5cm waist), Boots: Raichles 124s with BTS (the position is roughly equivalent to a lean of "4" on the front and "3" on the back). Bindings are Cateks placed at 45/40 with ~2 deg lift on the front and 3 deg heel on the back. No cant. The cant mechanism on the boots was a major source of headache. It would constantly slack off and give me maximum outward cant. I JB-welded the sucker and now it seems to stay put. However I can't get more inward lean, I'm stuck with straight up and down. My problem: I run out of "highback". Just like if this was a softboot setup and the highbacks aren't cranked forward enough. I tend to straighten out my knees on heelsides, hilarity ensues. Toeside is solid though. Trying to crank down the forward lean on the front boot doesn't seem to do the trick and makes me extremely uncomfortable and unable to pressure the nose. The problem is doubly exacerbated on a narrower board. My question to you all knowing internet is this: What do I do to help my heelside turn? Do I cant towards the toeside on the front boot (inward)? Do I reduce lift? Mess with the rear boot? Give up and side-slip? Something completely different? Let's for the moment assume that the gear is what it is. I do have plans to upgrade the boots and do have a nicer board for when I get better(ish), but for now this is it.

I love my Cateks but knowing what I know now I would avoid them. The adjustability, while great if you know what you're looking for, will mess you up if you don't. Want to remove the binding for waxing? Move between boards? Good luck putting them back to the same setup. The pros? They tend to run cheaper second hand on the classifieds. The older ones (WC) have a pretty large range of sole length that they can accommodate, and are VERY durable. I've now played around with them enough to know that my next set will be TDs.

I've gone over to the light side! Do not worry, this April fools foray did not last. I've gone right back to dark. Will, however, not be present tomorrow following extreme inability to stand up due to severe shredding.

I feel so sheepish

If I tell you that the difference in the width of the nose is a millimeter you'd say that it's nothing. If I tell you that the difference in sidecut radius is 3m you'd say that it's easily detectable, right? It's the same difference: Nose: 30mm, Waist: 25mm, Effective length:137/2 => Radius is 10.43 m https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=n%3D30,+w%3D25.5,+l%3D137%2F2,+(4l^2%2B(n-w)^2)%2F(4(n-w)) Nose: 29mm, Waist: 25mm, Effective length:137/2 => Radius is 13.41 m https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=n%3D29,+w%3D25.5,+l%3D137%2F2,+(4l^2%2B(n-w)^2)%2F(4(n-w)) It's not crazy that we can detect this. We see this all the time where we look at something that looks small but has a big effect. We're just looking at the wrong thing. The effect is magnified in a way that's easily detectable. When going 20mph the 29mm nose (13.41 meter radius) will give you a centripetal acceleration of 5.96 m/s/s (a 175 lb person will weigh ~205). The 30mm nose (10.43 meter radius) will give you an acceleration of 7.68 m/s/s (same 175 lb person will weigh 222 lb). Certainly seems detectable to me! Nerd out! (drops pencil) p.s. Makes you look at construction quality and accuracy in a whole new way, doesn't it? p.s.s. Yes, I might have gone overboard. You tempted me! It's all your fault! I have a condition. p.s.s.s. Yes, I know sidecut radius does not directly equate to turn radius, don't make me do flex pattern calculation. I'm warning you!

I'm usually the one riding on other people boards so....

mis-take post.

So if I read this correctly then: Skill in EC == Amount of tape on jacket! Now where did I I put that roll....

http://unofficialnetworks.com/2017/03/7-surprising-facts-ski-deaths-injuries So since we snowboard we're safe, right?

^^^ It's Pythagoras nothing here to really go wrong. It's more dependent on your measurement. The numbers above are from my Steepwater and are right on. If I run Neil's numbers from above (on the tail end of the board I get: 1453 which seems to be in line with the 12/14 sidecut. https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=n%3D25.8,+w%3D21,+l%3D83.5,+(4l^2%2B(n-w)^2)%2F(4(n-w))

This one is way too accurate :)

Hmmmm.... With a bit of tape and a calculator you too can calculate sidecut radius! Measure the waist width of your board. Call that "W" Measure the width of your board close to the nose (still on the sidecut). Call that "N" Measure the distance between those two widths. Call that "L" Plug it in to the following formula (notice the amazing graphics here) to get the radius in the same units you measured it in. MAGIK!!! If you're lazy like me you can do Wolfram: https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=n%3D29.69,+w%3D25.5,+l%3D137%2F2,+(4l^2%2B(n-w)^2)%2F(4(n-w)) And get: With this you can do nose radius, tail radius, full radius, and (only if you really want to) diameters!

Thanks! This actually clears up a lot!

"Meatl FC".... I guess it's a meaty board Nice