Softcarver

Alright Angie, you get a vote from me.

This one is great. I can't believe even you are getting in on the action. Can't everyone just take a simple poll and have a discussion without bickering. Geez. For the record the instructions were pretty damn clear to me. When I was looking at boards $800 was my cap due to finances at the moment, not desire. Luckily I found a leftover stick from last year still in the wrap and only spent around $500. My theory is only spend: 1) what you can honestly afford. 2) how much you think you have to in order to get a board that meets your needs (ability level and riding style). 3) what you are willing to spend on a recreational sport. If someone doesn't spend as much it doesn't make them lesser of a rider. Nor does someone spending what another may consider as excessive make them a better or lesser rider. I am not implying that a quality board does not improve riding, but rather that everything is relative and one extreme or the other does not really matter. If you are having fun and happy with your board and feel that it is worth every penny you spent on it while still paying the bills then that is all that matters.

Just got them from UPS. Perfect condition. :1luvu:Great buying experience. I can't wait to get out on the slopes. Oh wait we need some snow first.

On the ice coast over here thats considered a normal run. Other people on the slopes look like GS poles to me. LOL. The snowboarder was dead wrong and obviously out of control. I'm not sure what he was trying to do, but it looked like there was plenty of room to the left to carve around. I mean accidents happen, but that was some hit. A few said it already but why the F*** do people feel the need to stop mid slope like that and not think to get over to the side. I have had people that were racing me down the slope all of a sudden stop short in front of me. I know this was not the case here as the skiier had been there for a while, but I just wanted to vent. Point is: GET OFF TO THE SIDE WHEN YOU STOP. This way no matter what happens you will be out of harms way and make the slopes safer for everyone. Again in this particular case I assign most of the blame to the boarder. 90/10

I have been using a camelback for years now. I keep it on the inside of my jacket and tuck the tube inside when I'm not drinking. I also have a insulated tube cover to keep it from freezing. The only thing that ever freezes on me is the mouthpeice which I can usually bite to free up. I normally just rinse it out and hang it up to dry. Once in a while I use a little baking soda in hot water to clean it. Just make sure the water is not too hot as I tried using almost boiling water one time and as soon as I closed the lid to shake it up the bag burst at the seam. FYI don't use any chemicals as I did that once and the taste never went away. I never even use soap. They are caoted with a microbial coating anyway so they are usually good unless you let them sit over the summer full of water. I usually buy a new bladder every season anyway to make sure it's clean. I will never ride without one as it keeps me hydrated and feeling fresher all day long while my buddies are panting on the side of the trail.

Go get a Jeep Wrangler and be done with it. Fun, roomy (the new 4 doors) and practical with a convertible top to boot.

Now that's the perfect after ride medicine.

I have never heard of anything like this. I am not sure where you heard it from, but I personally do not believe it to be accurate. I take Alleve most days before hitting the slopes. It keeps everything from getting inflamed and allows me to ride harder all day. I have never hurt worse at the end of the day because of it either. I have heard of people who chronically take pain killers such as Vocodin becoming more sensitive to pain through prolonged use, but I would think that an over the counter taken once in a while would not have any adverse effects. But hey I'm not a doctor.

I never asked you what type of terrain you hit or how you ride. Does the 63 handle the trees with no issues? I am almost ready to send this board back. That sucks that you are all the way down in Orlando. Do you get a place up here or do you just travel a lot?

That was just mean.:( I thought I missed something on the weather report.

Sweet. You must be stoked. Let me know how you like that compared to the Megalight after you ride it. It should be ultra responsive due to that full carbon topsheet.

Many here get it. I have been following this site for a long time, but have only recently joined. There is a wealth of information here and it is truly great that a site like this exists so that everyone can share their opinion and learn new ones. Everyone should be entitled to post their opinion as we do live in a free country. As b0ardski and lonbordin stated, it is up to the reader to discern what is good advice and bad advice. That is the beauty of this web site. You can gather many opinions and with your own experience decide what works best for you, even if that is a combination of ideas. Censorship is wrong, and so is open and relentless bashing of someone. If you see a serious issue that could cause injury with someones advice point it out with tact, but there is no reason to turn a helpful site into a mud slinging forum. I am not trying to offend you bobdea or anyone else, but it is nice to read through informative material without having to filter out the other stuff. I think it is a shame that some have ignored you due to this disagreement as you do have other very informative posts. As far as bad sellers I agree with either banning them from selling or, as sinecure stated, setting up a rating system so others can know what to expect. Overall though I like to think of snowboarders as a group as good people whom try to help eachother as is evident by the many people on here willing to share great tips with someone less knowledgeable like myself.

Maybe he just needs to get rid of the old stock. LOL.

Excellent point. I was mistaken. Both numbers are the contact length as opposed to the effective edge. I have edited my initial post to reflect this.

With a house rental in VT should be at least 30 there, hopefully more. Trip to Snowbird, Utah for 5 riding days. So at least 35 and hopefully more. I am ultra stoked as 18 has been my pathetic previous record. Sometimes living on Long Island can really suck.

It's pretty obvious that most of us agree that cant/lift is a personal preference. I just started with adjustable bindings two seasons ago; the Ride CAD's. I know they are not to the caliber that most on here ride with but they are fully adjustable. I just purchased a set of FR2 pro's and look forward to trying those out. I have messed around with adjustments for two full seasons and still do some tweaking here and there. Ride has even integrated a wedge footbed into their other bindings this year giving proof that even the mainstream snowboard companies realize that flat bindings offer less in the form of comfort. As far as performance benefits, I do not think they are that remarkable although there is some (ie. wider stances, increased lift helping to engage that edge quicker etc.). To me adjustment is more about comfort and finding a natural stance so that you can stay less fatigued as the day progresses. Like many others have said, someone can give you a basic starting point, but only by a lot of experimentation can you find what works best for you. Good luck and I hope you figure it out fasster than me.

I ride fast, but am just getting into carving and want to get better on edge. I ride more of a race GS style or Super G style and do not really ride with completed perpendicular to the slope carves but rather full speed with faster half carves. I am building a quiver and was looking to this board as my high performance all mountain board (Basically stable at speed and able to get on and hold an edge but also a few dips into the woods, hitting some natural features and the few POW days we see over here). I already have a jib and rock board. Next I will probably do something like the Donek Saber or similar for a fast carving board for days I'm stuck on the groomers and want the all out speed. I was thinking around a 171 for that stick. I have a house rental up by Stowe this season so there along with Smuggs and Sugar Bush will be my stomping ground. Thanks for the help. EC shredder; I did see your response on the other thread.Thank you as well. I just figured starting my own thread for this would get me some more input. It is an extra $200 that I can put towards another stick in my quiver if I don't need to spend it now.

I love this idea. I actually use these for stomp pads on all my boards, but have never used any for tip protection. Now at least when I'm giving the kid in the lift line a dirty look I'll know my board's protected somewhat. ( I can't stand those idiots who bump you the whole time you're in line)

Sorry. No longer for sale.

I purchased the Nidecker Megalight and let the guy in the factory talk me into a 163XL. I did get a new leftover for a few hundred less than a new one. He seems certain that that is the right size for me despite the fact that I am 6'-2" and 205lbs. The next size up is a 167XL and I am torn. It would also cost me around $200 extra being that it is this years. Is it worth it? My current board is only a 164.5, but has a contact length that is actually a smidge more than the Nidecker 167 although it is not a free-ride board. We are talking about the 167 with a contact length of 1200 while the 163 is only 1160. The sticker on the board is what really scared me though because it max's the 163 out at 176lbs. Meanwhile the 167 is rated for 165lbs and up. The rep swears I'll be OK and will be surprised at how well the board handles. Does anyone have experience with this board that could also make a recommendation? I ride over here on the East Coast which has smaller resorts, but am a little apprehensive on reducing contact length from what I have now. Wouldn't a board with a similar contact length be close in comparison for maneuverability and edge hold or are there other more important factors that affect that? I do know that there are other factors such as SCR and stiffness, but am wondering how key contact length is.

I just bought all new tuning gear myself. I'm going to start with a 0.5 degree base and 88 degree side to help with the ice. I am not in a position to offer advice, but here are some informative sites I have found. Hope it helps. This one has a wealth of info on all tuning aspects. Just search under the contents. http://tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html Good wax info http://www.dominatorwax.com/techedu.html BTW bite your tongue on the season starting in a month. I rented a house by Stowe and it better start a lot sooner than that. I'm going up for Thanksgiving, bringing my rock board, and hoping for the best.

Email sent

I just purchased a brand new leftover '09 Megalight 163 XL with Ultimate Grip online. The guy talked me into the 163 as opposed to the 167 despite my being 205lbs. I just got the board today and the sticker on the back rates it for a rider between 132 - 176. I was going to simply return it, but figured I would give someone the chance for a good deal. The board normally goes for around $700 with the Ultimate Grip. I'm asking for $550 shipped which is basically what I paid for it plus shipping. Again, the board is 100% brand new and I just took off the original factory plastic today when I got it. (U.S. lower 48 shipping only.)

:biggthumpAmen to that. Just an excuse to buy something newer. If I can't see grass the rock board goes in the closet till Spring. We buy our boards to have fun so go out there and use them.

That looks pretty nice. I am almost thinking about taking my old ironing board and making something. It's sturdier, has a very similar concept and even has an iron holder built in. I'll post pics if I go for it.