scrapster

Board still available. West Carven--drop me an email if you're still interested.

Hey Stephane, I'm probably the last person to ask about freestyle compatibility, as I almost never leave the ground anymore ;) My guess is they would be too stiff though, as Nidecker markets them as the stiffest binding in their line-up.

Sale pending on board.

Pics of board posted!

159 SG Soul Softboot Carver-- $150 & shipping If I didn't have a growing Tanker fetish I wouldn't be selling this. It's just about the perfect board to have handy when conditions get too cruddy for hardboot gear, and I haven't ridden a better pow board, especially for the trees. Very good overall condition. Nearly perfect base. Perfect edges. Never tuned beyond regular waxings. Some very light scratches on the top sheet. It was babied and still has the factory QC sticker on the nose. Waist 24.9cm, SCR 8.6 Nidecker Act Carbon Bindings L/XL-- $90 shipped in US Great, stiff softboot bindings. Good used condition. Will post pics soon. I'm also have some new Scott Venture skis for sale, unmounted with bindings. So if you need new sticks this winter, PM me.

I have a pair of Nidecker Act Carbons I'd be willing to sell. I originally bought them for parts--not because they're in bad shape, but because they were a size up from what I actually needed. My wife tells me I have too many "parts" bindings hanging around our basement currently ;) I think $75 plus shipping would work.

Dammit Shred, you foul temptress... Was looking for one of these last winter.

She sounds sketchy enough to warrant giving her a wide berth--unless you want more drama in your life. As some have suggested, the best case scenario is that she's trying to escape a threat, or leave a less than proud past behind and start over. The worst could indeed be anything--but it is equally conjecture. That being said, you would potentially be taking on the role of a troublemaker yourself if you act without more information. Of course, if you do get wind of something more specific, that changes everything...

Go for it! Softy carving is a vast, largely untapped area of pure bliss... The biggest difference you'll find is that most softy boards like to make tight, slalom-like turns because of their deep side cuts, and most are a little slower edge to edge because of their increased width. There are exceptions out there (if you're looking for something different), but you have to search for them.

Pretty cool stuff. Not sure about the diamond nose shape though. Seems like a recipe for digging in softer snow. However, I guess with some properly-placed rocker you could lessen the risk.

Whatcha want to know? Do you need a courier? (I'm not that close, but I may be up that way this month.)

Oh, no. Don't say that. I've envied many an item from eBay Germany. I guess not speaking German is my only barrier now--the last firewall to prevent me from completely draining my bank account. I can't even tell if they'd ship to the US. Ps- I love that you can still search snowboards by length on that site!

I'd have to look again, but it seemed like they were running pretty common softboot angles-maybe even duck. Crank them both up to even a modest, forward stance and their body positioning would likely be much better.

Well, the style certainly showcases one's rear-end.

I haven't heard back from him after a few emails. Harry at Rad Air was offered to help me procure something directly.

Hi All, I have a bunch of parts for a pair of Nidecker 800 bindings, but I'm missing the foam bottom pads. If anyone has some, that would be great. I'd also be willing to consider a complete pair. Can never have enough back-ups!

Hi Shawn, The S.W. sidecut is single-radius, 10.3m for the 162 and 10.8 for the 167. I did try the A-Frame a long time ago, but it was a tiny 154. I have hand-flexed the new one. My impression is that the A-Frame will be slightly softer--both torsionally and longitudinally--more forgiving and tighter turning. The S.W. is likely damper, certainly turns longer, and would be more comfortable/stable at higher speeds.

I don't think it would be overkill at all--just a different experience. It would be perfect for keeping up with skiers, as it behaves somewhat similarly (nose of the board downhill and shallow carves, unless you tell it to turn more sharply.) Condition-wise, I actually intend to use mine more as a carve-oriented board, and to use a different board (shorter, more turny) for days that will be mostly resort/tree powder.

Well, I just picked one up. Love it. Wish it were narrower and had a faster base (I wanted to carve more laid-out turns on gentler slopes and sometimes couldn't build the requisite speed.) But the 10.3m sidecut is just dreamy on a freeride board--from slithery, shallow carves to big GS arcs--and the flex is perfect. As some of the reviews online also point out, it's surprisingly both light and damp. Need to take it out on more varied conditions*, but so far it's a keeper. Best freeride board I've ridden in some time. *Ridden in packed and tracked-up east coast powder.

Interested in the board. Email sent.

Thanks! Unfortunately, I have my own 164 Donek Razor for sale that's a touch too stiff. I imagine yours would be in the same category.

Missed out on a nice Tanker. Still looking. Narrow waist versions preferred!

On the east coast, Berkshire East in Massachusetts is the only place that I know of--through their Pureboarding program--but I do believe you have to use them at the resort! (And that's a good thing, because the B-East is great.)

Having gone through this myself not too long ago, I'll chime and say that used gear is usually the best way to go when you're just starting out. No reason to break the bank until you know what/how you like to ride, what brand of boots fits you the best, etc. There are two caveats to that general truism though: Caveat 1. Some binding models don't hold up well over time, or never worked well, so you have to be careful there. Some outdated boots also might not do you any favors. And it goes without saying, stay away from equipment that's obviously been abused or has cracks. Caveat 2. There are some who will argue that having a newer board that contains titanal or "metal"--one of the biggest leaps in alpine technology in recent history--is as big an advantage for beginners as it is for more seasoned riders. Why? Well, metal boards tend to get "upset" less with variations in the snow and stay in a carve. They will cost you more though, and can be more delicate. And don't automatically equate metal boards with "easy." They come in all flavors. I've been on older fiberglass boards that were much easier for me to carve than some modern raceboards. Although the site is a little old, it does give a good introduction to the brands: http://www.alpinecarving.com/

Ha! I had a snake named Spiny Norman (a python, of course.) Anyway, you could always wait until summer and pick up one of the original Steepwaters at Wave Rave for $250. They go on sale, half-price, every year. Don't get me wrong, I like Arbors, but the Steepwaters were bombproof.