Aracan
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Everything posted by Aracan
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I have two patches of Keprotec on my pants, on the rear knee and the front hip. I salvaged them from my old pants that simply fell apart at the seams. They hold up fine.
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Ah, they reversed it again. I always did wonder if the upside-down buckle really made sense.
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I don't get that low that much. But I have seen the clothes of other riders, and the kind of abuse getting on the snow a lot inflicts on clothing - and we are talking about Keprotec reinforcements, kangaroo leather and stuff like that. A hardshell pant or jacket will not hold up to EC for long, no matter how good.
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As noted above, Snowpro bindings were last manufactured in 2002, according to the (former) manufacturer.
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The CC Speed is the binding Surf Quebec mentioned as the Pureboarding binding. It is the same binding the same company produced OEM as the Burton Raceplate. While the North American distributor of UPZ may still have some in stock, Snowpro have not produced any alpine bindings since 2002 (at least that's what they told me when I contacted them about spares in 2014). This leaves F2 Carve Company SG Virus Phiokka Kessler And maybe the upcoming Swoard binding.
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I have no personal experience with racing, but I am told racers seek the fastest connection from point A to point B. When I carve, I make huge detours between A and B. While some of the techniques are similar, the goals and outcomes are very different.
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Recreational carver or Medical carver.... Which one are you?
Aracan replied to Pusbag's topic in Carving Central
Wow. 25 days counts as a good season for me, 30 is nearly unheard-of. -
Seems they only quote prices on request. I am not that serious about it ...
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I am happy with my F2s, but I did look at the Phiokka site a number of times, because the design sure looks intriguing, especially the H1. However, I could never find a place that carried them. Guido, did you buy directly from Phiokka?
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+1. Do rotation drills. Look where you want to go (in an exaggerated manner). Point uphill with your inside hand. Give the board time to follow your input.
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Same here. At 75 kg, I found the black tongues too stiff for my liking. The red ones are perfect.
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I switched to DGSS because I like a softer (fore-aft) boot. It turned out that with the soft, red tongues the stock spring system was the limiting factor. I strongly suspect that a spring system is not really necessary for riding, but I prefer to ride with one for safety reasons. Does the spring system from Quebec Man also slot into the stock holes of the shell like the DGSS? They look very similar.
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A few turns on a slope that held up surprisingly well for this time of year (which didn't prevent me from having occasional troubles in backside turns, but we're working on that). Pardon the poor vid quality.
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The stock RAB may make sense for stronger riders. For me, then at something like 145 lbs, it was like a blocked system, even with the softer spring.
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The originals had about 8.5 degrees, see here:
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I have no idea if any shop in your area would carry hardboots. To get a feel for the different shapes, you could start with 2nd-hand boots bought online (at this point, in a two-carver household, I have bought and sold five or six pairs which turned out to be not quite "it"). You will get burned a bit, but not as badly as with new boots.
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My wife asked my a pertinent question once ...
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If you set bail bindings up so that the boot heel is held as rigidly (laterally) as in an Intec heelpiece, you must have very impressive arm muscles.
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I know two who went the other way, because their riding improved.
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I have never used Intec, but judging from those around me who did, it seemed more of a hassle to make sure the pins were engaged than just closing the bail.
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What philw said. I remember some discussions in the past on this forum about why there were no new models of boots. The bottom line always was "because they'd have to cost $ 1000". Which they do, because someone actually took the plunge and made the things. I don't see myself buying a pair, because they are likely a lot stiffer than I would want them. But if I add up my boots - the original (low, reduced, end-of-season-sale) price, the cost of new liners, softer tongues, of springs and footbeds, I arrive at something over $ 800. Had I paid full price for the original boots, that would have been closer to $ 1000. If I bought a new, $ 700 UPZ, and I did not already have the liners, springs and tongues, they would cost more than the Mountainslopes.
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A lot more than $ 1,000 for board, if you go by the "annual quiver photo" thread. As a newbie I would be more intimidated by the seeming necessity to "build a quiver" running deep into four- sometimes five-figure territory propagated by many posters than by a boot that costs as much as a really, really expensive ski boot.
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I am unsure. They certainly do not feel narrow to me. Some (and the boot volume study) say the Deeluxe offer more room, though.
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You are right in guessing that boots are the first order of business. Boots that work and fit well make or break a great day to a far greater extent than any other part of your equipment. Unfortunately, this is also the area where choice is most limited: Leaving aside the Mountainslope boots (unless you want to shell out close to $ 1,000), there is UPZ (two models of different stiffness, same shell shape), Deeluxe symmetrical (current models are the Track 325 and 425) and Deeluxe asymmetrical (Track 700). Head Stratos are no longer being made, but easily found in the classifieds. Your hunt will likely include some trial and error. Some pointers: UPZ has the most narrow heel. Deeluxe are wider, Head is somewhere in between. UPZ is comparatively narrower in front. Most importantly, do get the correct shell size: Remove the liner, step into the shell so your toes just touch in front. There should be about 1 fingers width of space behind your heel, maybe one and a half. More is too much. To ascertain shell sizes, refer to the sole lenght. It is always printed on the outside, somewhere near the heel. Fit can be tweaked by a bootfitter and/or by using a thermo-moldable liner. Once you are there, you can start playing with stiffness (tongues, springs ...)
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Not sure for what you need the risers, but anyway ... on the front binding try keeping the one under the toe and remove the one under the heel. Or put both under the toe. The UPZs have quite a bit of a stiletto heel.
