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Home Mountain/Resort?


Current Boards in your Quiver

Current Boots Used?

Current bindings and set-up?

Snowboarding since

Hardbooting since

Found 22 results

  1. SOLD! I am thinning my quiver and selling my Donek Flux 162cm with P-tex topsheet. Asking $500, buyer pays shipping. This board was built in 2016 with stock specs and a white P-Tex topsheet. It is in excellent condition and has seen about a dozen total days on the snow. One minor scratch on the base, very small bumps behind the binding screws, and typical binding marks on the topsheet (from bomber power plates).
  2. Or: "Jumping for adults". I know how to jump with my snowboard. I mean, if there's a cliff or a pillow I'll ride over it with a bit of speed and then try to deal with the landing, mostly by ensuring there's at least 3m of powder where I'm heading. After that it's just a question of if I ride out of the crater or not. You can't really see it in the image below from today, but bottom right there's a small ramp. It's maybe a meter tall fashioned as a mellow "roller". It's "passive", in that it doesn't do anything to your balance should you hit it (there's no "kicker"). If a hard booter his it full speed there's just about enough space down there to put in a turn before the fence at the bottom. Soft booters generally spin just above the snow then crash or sideslip away - I've no desire to do that. I'm trying to get straight in my head what the best technique is for hard booting a roller like this is. I can simply suck it up and take minimal air; I can hit it straight or hit it at an angle; or I can extend violently as I get to the lip. I'm not really interested in tricks at all, but I am interested in the best technique for rollers, for I suppose (a) height; and (b) length of air, and maybe (c) maximum hard boot style [which has to be very different from spinny tricks]. Anyone got any tips?
  3. Hello everyone! I wanted to inform you of our new website, which is finally finished and was uploaded last night. https://www.mountain-slope.com/ Under the category of .951 "Bindung und Schuh Einstellgung" (Binding and boot settings) we have our recommended setup. Enjoy! Greetings from Switzerland ... Jennifer
  4. Been using the Thirst 8RW this season for GS racing and carving this season. This season is my first racing Slalom and Giant Slalom, I have been riding soft boot racing boards for the last decade. I have ridden all the super expensive boards out there, I even regretfully own a couple of them. The first day I rode the Thirst 8RW it held a better edge than any of my other boards. Every time I go out on the 8RW I find a new gear and I go faster than the time before. I raced the 8RW on Presidents day at White Pass in a GS race. I won two gold medals and the Thirst board was amazing! I would race this board at any level of competition. I qualified for Nationals at Copper Mtn. I hope to go but I'm still trying to figure out if I can. The Thirst board that I'm borrowing has more power than my Donek and holds a better edge than my Kessler. If your wanting a high end board with a ton of power the 8RW is the one.
  5. Hello there! Let me introduce myself shortly: I'm Tim, mid twenties, Dutch, one-week-a-year freerider. As a job I work with bicycles and for a hobby I like working on cars. Classic Volvo's to be precise. When boarding I like speed. A lot of guys like kickers and parks, but I like cruising or high speed long turns. Sounds like carving. I've always liked the look of hardbooters. Now, a couple of days ago I was a second-hand shop and I found a board. I bought it because it appeared to be my size. With it, I got some question marks. First: the bindings. They are burtons but the only thing I could find was the brand. I have no clue what type. Do they need 'special' shoes from the same era as the bindings or do modern hardboots fit? Could ski-boots fit? Then the board: Its from 1998, that's how much I know. Is this a known board? Underneath the rear binding was a plate which was canted. I haven't seen this earlier. Could someone explain to me why? As you might notice I would really like to learn more. I would also like to get out and ride this pretty piece of vintage! Kind regards, Tim.
  6. I recently came across this series and they have lots of fantastic footage of killer carves and jumps.
  7. Selling this Donek FC II 167cm tall, 19.5cm waist, 10.4 - 12.4 m radius, in Good condition still has tones of edge life Selling for $250 USD dm me if interested or need of any other answers
  8. Looking to sell these 27 mondo RCRs from last season, as you can see they are in great shape with just some minor cosmetic wear and tear after one season of use. If you are not familiar with RCRs they are a stiffer race version of the RC 10 and are the same bottom section but with the stiffer tongue and cuff and have the extra upper support with the "spoiler" and the booster type buckle. I bought them without liners (I use intuitions) but I do have some old foam liners (from another upz boot) that I can include if someone needs that. $350
  9. I've been riding these boots for longer than I care to admit; bought them new in the mid-90's and the liners are finally starting to fall apart. Nothing else has ever broken on them; the buckles, straps, and all shell components are still functional. Quite impressive actually, they've probably got 400+ days on them. I'm guessing this was a UK 7 given the size markings stamped inside the shell, and since I wear a size 7-1/2 or 8 US Men's shoe that seems to be about right, but realize that some manufacturer's boots fit larger or smaller, so I'm looking for the modern equivalent of my 20+ year-old Raichle hardshells... Measured my foot for mondo sizing as recommended on a few posts I've seen, 26.2cm which translates to a mondo 26. Confirms the guess about the stamped sizes being UK sizing. So I know my size in the modern age, but what about stiffness and fit? The Raichles came with grey and black tongues, found the grey too stiff, I only freeride all-mountain, no gates in the last 15 years. Even when I ran gates the black tongues were a better match. Still weigh the same, 180 lb . If these old beaters fit my feet for so long, would I be more of a candidate for Deeluxe or UPZ's?
  10. At the Carvers Days 2017 in Ovindoli we had the luck to ride one prototipe of the Sixt Sense Boots. The feeling is unbelivable, the shell doesn't get deformed at all. Super light. You have just to think to carve and everything goes.
  11. Both of these boards have been sold sorry for any inconvenience
  12. Just posted to EBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northwave-Point-950-C-Shell-Alpine-Snowboard-Race-Boots-/291917724102?hash=item43f7a6f9c6:g:o5YAAOSwo4pYCUzi
  13. Hurt my knee again and it's looking like a year off the slopes and some surgery, so I'm selling my splitboard to help fund doctor visits. (Broke student game)It's a 2012 Voile MojoRX 66 splitboard, with a hard boot setup. It has Voile mountain plate bindings and heel risers, Dynafit bindings for the uphill, and comes with both full and half skins (also Voile, still super sticky). Nice light setup for those uphill days and long treks. The adjustable bindings are currently sized for roughly a size 27 upward (womens large, mens medium/large). No core shots, still in great condition.Brand new was an investment of ~ $1200. Due to me needing money sooner rather than later for those bills, I'd be happy with $370 plus s&h (probably around $30). Thanks!
  14. Selling these 2 Donek Revs 180 and 162, the 180 is a stock board and the 162 is custom but the only difference with the 163 is that it is 1cm shorter still same flex as stock and everything else, have had them for 3 months only ridden them half a month total, The topsheet and Base of both boards are in excellent condition, have been waxed more than ridden, running very quick. Only edge sharpened once so still tonnes of edge life left on both boards. Also both have been given full race structures for all round conditions. Selling for $800 USD each board + Shipping my email address is nicholas.masjuk1234@gmail.com if you need any questions answered Images of the boards are posted below
  15. Boots and liners in excellent condition. Great ride but too small for my feet. Mondo: 25.5. $150 shipped.
  16. Started out with hard booting this season. Looking to get either a longer carving board for my weight (190lbs) or a skwal (up to 173cm)
  17. Hello all! I'm a seasoned freerider and I love aggressive carving. LOVE it. I tried hardbooting once several years ago and really liked it. I've been wanting to start alpine snowboard for years and I decided I want to try to make it happen this year (yay). The thing is, it seems alpine snowboarding is for (semi)rich folks and/or full-time workers only (the gear is EXPENSIVE)... and since I am a heavily indebted PhD student I can't afford expensive equipment. So far I found cheap used boards I could start with (even though most of them are dinosaurs, I think I could find something decent) but it's freakin hard to find cheap boots (I live in Ottawa, Canada). And from what I read, boot quality is really important. So I have 2 questions: 1) CHEAP BOOTS / SKI BOOT MODIFICATIONS. As if it wasn't hard enough to find alpine snowboard gear these days, I am a 5’6 female with mondo size 24/24.5 feet. Unless a miracle happens, there's no way I'll find good used or discount boots. If any of you knows a website where I could find some quality cheap hardboots, please let me know. I'm willing to come get stuff at the boarder, i.e. buy frmo a US website and have it ship in a US post office to avoid expensive shipping fees; or meet with someone living near the border (NY or VT states). My other option would be to use ski boots, but I'm not an idiot and I know that in order to ride in ski boots I'd have to seriously customize them. I've googled for ski boots mods but couldn't find anything interesting. Can anyone help me with this? Also, do you think it's worth it to try customize ski boots in order to avoid hardboot high costs? By the way, I've already read lots of forum discussions on the "can I use ski boots with my alpine board" subject. But what people mostly discuss is using them as is and hardbooters being like and sometimes (haha). Lots of hardbooters say it's not a good idea (I know that), some say it a no-no unless you customize them but never say how. I've also read stuff like this: http://www.alpinecarving.com/boots.html, which is very interesting but not precise enough. 2) OLD BOARDS (BRANDS AND SIZES). The other question I'm trying to get answers for is about old boards. Most boards selling under 400$ are dinosaurs (late 1990s-early 2000s). I don't really mind but the problem is that like real dinosaurs, they went extinct (which makes my analogy great haha); consequently, I can't find specs infos, size charts or reviews and that makes it really hard to know what to buy/search for in terms of brand and length. I weight 125-ish lbs (let's say I'm searching for a board for 125 to 135 lbs) and I'm 5"6 (I know boards are weight-specific but just in case anyone wonders about my center of gravity or something). I have an aggressive style so I'm not afraid of putting my back into my turns (meaning I'm not afraid of a board that's a little long for my weight). So I'm looking for general answers on what old brands/models are good and what length (1. ideal and 2. acceptable) I should go for. But since I know the length/weight ratio can be specific to the brand or model, I'm also searching for very specific answers (for example someone could recommend a 161 Swoard Extremecarver). So yeah.. I have lots of questions Thanks!!
  18. Hi, I have a prior 4wd race board for sale. It has trench digger 3 bindings and deeluxe boots.The board in great condition. It was used for only 1 season of light racing. There were a total of 8 races in the year. It was never abused or anything of that nature. There is no rust and the edges are still sharp. It is all tuned up and ready to ride for the winter. The boots are deeluxe 700 hardboots made for alpine racing. The bindings are TD3's and ride perfect. Im asking $900 for the board and $200 for the boots coming to $1100 all together. If you have any questions or want any more information, Text or call me at 916705O703. Thank you.
  19. Deeluxe Track 325 hard boot w/ Thermo Flex, mondo 28, black, $325 incl UPS Ground Shipping (USA and Canada). Excellent condition. Liners heat-molded once. Used 2x. Moved to smaller size boot.
  20. I have a pair of Deeluxe 325's mondo size 24 hardboots for sale. They are in great condition, used for one season, and the liners are were molded once. Asking $215 plus shipping. Feel free to e mail me at lisaande at s b c g l o b a l dot net
  21. 9.5/10 LibTech 180 Grocer. A classic longboard, stiff enough to carve, long enough to float through the deepest powder</SPAN></SPAN> Lib Technologies Grocer Snowboard </SPAN> Next time the snow is elbow-deep, strap yourself into the Lib Tech Grocer Snowboard for the smoothest, floatiest ride of the season. This super-long, powder board keeps you afloat with a 180cm length and 262mm waist, while the low-maintenance TNT polymer base provides a fast ride. A directional, progressive sidecut allows easy turn initiation in the wide-open fluff so you can cruise with confidence. This board is designed to keep you on top of manky Cascade conditions, and is best ridden by aggressive riders. Under the Custom Wood topsheet is a honeycomb-wood Air Core which increases overall board strength and decreases weight for improved edge control and flotation. Everyone loves a big powder day, and the Grocer delivers the milk and cookies. </SPAN> Bottom Line: A massive powder board that brings home the groceries. </SPAN> Tech Specs:</SPAN> Length:</SPAN> 180cm </SPAN> Effective edge:</SPAN> 139cm </SPAN> Waist width:</SPAN> 262mm </SPAN> Sidecut radius:</SPAN> either 11.9 or 11-9 VSR </SPAN> Stance width:</SPAN> 55cm </SPAN> Stance setback:</SPAN> 2cm </SPAN> Core material:</SPAN> Honeycomb-wood Air Core </SPAN> Base material:</SPAN> TNT polymer </SPAN> Recommended Use:</SPAN> Freeride I pulled this out because I dont get up to the hills enough. It is in great shape from only light use. Bottom still has lots of structure, Base has been cleaned and leveled. Edges compleately tuned before putting away, Base and edges have thick layer of general temp wax. All care done by hand no power tools (other then the iron for the wax) She is ready to ride or you can scrape and buff the wax off until you are happy. $390 shipped CONUS Canadians a bit more. obo questions ronin42 (at) yahoo (dot) com </SPAN>
  22. I'm a longtime (1984) softboot/all mountain carver (until I fell in love with progression riding in my early 30's!) who finally has the burning desire to play on a hardboot setup. I'm not looking to compete, just rail some tight fluid turns at all speeds, though as a hardboot newcomer, I'm less concerned about bombing speeds. I certainly don't need any flash new setup; just something that has real nice feel and is in decently performing condition. Would like to keep the cost down as low as possible. At this point I know nothing about the various interfaces and required boot types, or even what board specs might be ideal. Any suggestions? If you want to send me links me to items, even better. A little about me- Age 39 height 5'7" weight 175 Boot Size = 10 Primary stance = Regular footed (can carve switch almost as well, so if a goofy setup saves me big$$ then happy to go goofy) Even if you don't have specific equipment suggestions, I very much welcome any general advice or tips. Thanks!
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