NateW Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 There's two ways I can put TD3s together. Can you spot the difference? Which is better? Note that with Intec heels, there's far more force on the heel side of the binding than on the toe side. I am not at all concerned about being strong enough for riding, but in crashes there can be a lot of force in random directions. And I have a long history of doing stupid things involving various combinations of steep slopes, high speeds, and big jumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 Isn’t the one on the right sized much smaller than the one on the left? How can you do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 I presume you mean how the base to disc bolts are triangulated. Are you running 0*/0*? Otherwise I'd think canting and lift would drive the choice. Practically speaking, I'm doubtful there is a difference in pull out strength within the busted legs threshold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted February 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 8 minutes ago, Jack M said: Isn’t the one on the right sized much smaller than the one on the left? How can you do that? Yes, but that part was unintentional. I should have realized it before I posted this photo, because it made for an awkward first few minutes with that board. I took the photo when I was putting the board together back in December, and finally remembered to ask about it today. What I'm curious about is the placement of the three bolts that hold the top plate to the cant ...thing. Left side: one bolt directly under the heel, and one on either side of the toe Right side: one bolt directly under the toe, and one on either side of the heel I've been running them like the right side forever, on the theory that two bolts for the heel are better than one. But as I was putting those together I started to wonder if one would would be better, since the load path is shorter and the bolt is more in line with the direction of the forces that would be pulling the parts apart. 20 minutes ago, Mr.E said: I presume you mean how the base to disc bolts are triangulated. Are you running 0*/0*? Otherwise I'd think canting and lift would drive the choice. Practically speaking, I'm doubtful there is a difference in pull out strength within the busted legs threshold. Yes, I believe that's called a "mechanical fuse" in some circles. Or biological fuse in this case. Yikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 You might want input from people who have had their binding crack as to what position they were bolted together relative to where they cracked . Very few have had this happen but it can ! Ride it till it breaks and let us know which is stronger . I like it with the two bolts on the heel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 Choose the one that sparks joy. LOL, it doesn't really matter, so pick the baseplate direction that makes it easier to access the 3 bolts once the toe and heel blocks are in place. Oh, and I've found that sometimes the toe/heel boots can be a little long, which causes weird stresses if they hit the cant rings. I file down the long ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 Some positions will accommodate 4 bolts if you're concerned about 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted February 20, 2022 Report Share Posted February 20, 2022 Actually, there is a 3rd way. 4 M8 screws. Possible if you run lift only with no canting. I cracked a baseplate on my rear TD3 Intec binding. I had not paid heed to where I had my 3 screws placed prior to that. 2 screws to the rear on the rear binding shortens the effective lever length my rear leg can apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted March 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 After adjusting the toe and heel placement to center the boot better, the winner is clear. It turns out I need them positioned more like the binding on the right, and less like the one on the left. Which means that the screw at the heel isn't accessible without moving the heel first. Since there's no clear winner from a strength standpoint I'm going to stick with the configuration that makes it easier to work on the binding. And easier to check/fix the tension on the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnasmo Posted March 7, 2022 Report Share Posted March 7, 2022 Don't they ship assembled as on the right? Then it's just inward or outward canting that determines which set of disc holes you use. Sidewinders always hide a bolt or two; just something you have to deal with when tweaking setup. At least bolts hidden under blocks can't fully unscrew even if they get loose, so there's a silver lining. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slabber Posted March 7, 2022 Report Share Posted March 7, 2022 I'll be paying more attention next time I'm setting up my TDs. I also think the two bolts at the rear to be a safer configuration based on premise that heel will generate more force than toe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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