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jl1

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I got off the lift today and stepped in my rear binding and noticed it was loose. After fiddling with it a few minutes with no success I decided to take it apart to investigate further. After a 1/4 turn loosening the king pin bolt the binding came apart!  The spherical king pin nut was sheared off!  Thankfully I caught this before I took another run as I am sure it would have let loose on my way down the hill. I strongly suggest you check these nuts for cracks. Also, anyone have any idea where to get these spherical nuts?19EFF7A8-3297-4C9E-AAF5-D18DD86395BC.jpeg.bb363e7a02f6032ca96cc46f6b14066d.jpeg766C8CAD-1425-4204-B131-772DC2BD482B.jpeg.42d563c4d216520ef9c2a90fab3b281b.jpeg

Edited by jl1
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1 hour ago, teach said:

The kingpin also sheared? 

The spherical nut on the OS2 has a cylindrical section with a narrow spherical flange.  It looks like just the flange broke off.  Thank you jl1, I'll have to check mine.  Fortunately, this is the first instance I've heard of so perhaps you had a material flaw, or maybe a dull cutting tool in the lathe left some tears that acted as stress concentrations.

image.png.ebc47d188edafee1c33a232f680fec64.png

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I asked because with that design, i'd think you'd want the kingpin threads through the flange. Otherwise it's a bit like scoring a sheet of glass, supporting just up to the score mark on one side and pushing on the other. But maybe they were and kingpin sheared as well?

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5 hours ago, teach said:

I asked because with that design, i'd think you'd want the kingpin threads through the flange. Otherwise it's a bit like scoring a sheet of glass, supporting just up to the score mark on one side and pushing on the other. But maybe they were and kingpin sheared as well?

I recall that there are spacers that get inserted if you want more tilt. So the bolt has to be sized to not bottom on the board with no spacers, but have good engagement with 2 spacers. I've only worked with one generation of Catek, not sure if that's common. 

One bolt holds you on the board though. It's a BIG bolt. Your leg would probably tear off before that failed in overload. 

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52 minutes ago, lordmetroland said:

I shudder to think what other "spare parts" might be found there...

Maine is cold, but not as cold as Wisconsin.

In order to find the Catek parts, I had to relocate a spotted elephant, a water pistol that shoots jelly, and a 'Charlie-in-the-box'.

The fissile materials I keep in another location.

 

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31 minutes ago, Beckmann AG said:

Maine is cold, but not as cold as Wisconsin.

In order to find the Catek parts, I had to relocate a spotted elephant, a water pistol that shoots jelly, and a 'Charlie-in-the-box'.

Lots of weird parts found in Wisconsin over the years. By the way, what the hell was wrong with that doll, anyway?!?

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22 hours ago, teach said:

The kingpin also sheared? 

Just the flanged nut sheared

13 hours ago, Corey said:

I recall that there are spacers that get inserted if you want more tilt. So the bolt has to be sized to not bottom on the board with no spacers, but have good engagement with 2 spacers. I've only worked with one generation of Catek, not sure if that's common. 

One bolt holds you on the board though. It's a BIG bolt. Your leg would probably tear off before that failed in overload. 

Catek supplied two different length bolts depending on how many spacers you used. I did have the long bolt in with 2 spacers

 

14 hours ago, Beckmann AG said:

Probably my storage locker.

->Found a few 'spares' you can borrow for your next jaunt to Outpost 31.

 

I lost track of how many extra pairs of cateks I have!  Bindings are back together and fine. Knowing what happened is the problem........mentaly for me at least

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2 hours ago, jl1 said:

Knowing what happened is the problem.....

Too many cattle, insufficient hat.

14 hours ago, lordmetroland said:

S*** is giving me the shivers. I bet the creepy-ass bear was in there somewhere too. You’re a brave man, but I’m sure the Catek haul was worth it.

Craigslist and "It was a dark and stormy night..." go hand in hand. Or hand in paw. Or paw in...

Nevermind.

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On 2/1/2021 at 3:28 PM, Wolf said:

I checked a set of OS2 bindings and the thread does go through the entire bore including the ID of the flanged section.

If you zoom in on my picture you can see maybe 1-11/2 threads past the break. The spherical nut sheared right where the taper ends

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am in the process of making the OS1 bindings from scratch. The spherical nut design is superior in my opinion. 
We all have to remember that metal fatigues and the repeated duty cycles on that nut will eventually cause failure.  Not a bad idea to replace hardware every couple of years.  I would also look at toe bail replacements on older bindings for the same reason. I will have both available very soon. 
I have all the parts digitized and am about to start cutting the aluminum parts. I just finished the toe bail bending fixtures today and am very pleased with their fit. They are a direct replica of the original. Updates to come soon. Questions welcome. 

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@jl1: welcome to the club. In Europe I know 4 guys (including me) who managed to kill the Kinpin-nut. Fortunately no-one was really hurt, but all had a shitty crash during riding, when the damn thing broke loose... In my eyes one of the few design failures of these bindings. We made a replacement kit here, were we built a M10 screw with the head formed like the kingpin/nut, and then use a standard nut at the top of the bindings. No issues for years now with that design.

 

Johno: do you plan to go into serial production later on? 😄

 

Cheers Max

Edited by Newmax
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4 minutes ago, Newmax said:

We made a replacement kit here, were we built a M10 screw with the head formed like the kingpin/nut, and then use a standard nut at the top of the bindings. No issues for years now with that design.

Oh, seriously, don't tease us with descriptions but no pictures. If you solved the Achilles Heel, share it with the huddled masses yearning to ride free (of fear)!

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Selfmade bolt (the shape of the screw is the same as the kingpin "flange". The nut goes then with a washer on top of the Bindings. The best "washer" you can get is to drill a hole through the originals screws with 10mm. Then you have a conic washer that nicely fills the top hole in the bindings. The Nut and screw end also are good helpers for scratching ice off the boots 🙂

I have those now in use for years, never had an issue anymore after breaking two kingpin-nuts.

DSC_2864.JPG.14c1799d57b9d07e83581956aa098301.JPG

Edited by Newmax
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9 hours ago, Newmax said:

@jl1: welcome to the club. In Europe I know 4 guys (including me) who managed to kill the Kinpin-nut. Fortunately no-one was really hurt, but all had a shitty crash during riding, when the damn thing broke loose... In my eyes one of the few design failures of these bindings. We made a replacement kit here, were we built a M10 screw with the head formed like the kingpin/nut, and then use a standard nut at the top of the bindings. No issues for years now with that design.

 

Johno: do you plan to go into serial production later on? 😄

 

Cheers Max

Do you have any pictures of your replacement/ fix for king pin nut    
 

Never-mind  I did not scroll down far enough

 

Edited by jl1
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  • 3 weeks later...

I’d love to get my hands on a set of OS 2 bindings and make a retro kit for the kingpin issue. The OS2 spherical nut design was a huge design flaw IMO. OS1 was far better. I have 9 pairs of complete bindings at the anodizer as we speak. The bindings will come with polycarbonate sub plates that protect the board and eliminate binding suck!

I have modified the OS1 bindings to what I thought Catek should have done....sort of an OS1.5 if you will. Toe bail locking, SS adjustment screw cups with 2.5 degree angle jumps. Kingpin has a Nylok nut to prevent loosening. I’ll have a few pics soon. I have no intention  of making a standard toe lever version as I don’t want to make toe levers.

 

 

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Edited by Johno212
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