Johno212

Wow! Thanks for the compliment.

Hi Joe. I machined my own sphere nuts and just installed a set screw which already had the female hex. Used red lock tight to secure them together. Worked very well. Didn’t you say you broke an OS2 style nut? Thank you. I value peoples input but at the end of the day, I did what I saw needed doing. I very much appreciate your kind words.

The first Catek bindings had a ring that was really thick and left an air gap under the bolt area of the base plate. . I never understood this because it facilitated insert suck but you were, in fact, riding on the rubber. Catek changed this with the OS1 which basically has a thinner rubber ring and allowed the body of the bindings to contact the board. I believe there was less than 1 mm of air gap which again aided in a very small amount of insert suck until the 2 made contact. The rubber rings on the OS1 only did anything as the board bent into it. Once they added the Polycarbonate sub plate, I believe this ring did virtually nothing. After riding both I feel no difference at all. As far insurances go I’m looking into it. Wanna go do karate in the garage?

I need to look and see how difficult it’ll me to make a toe lever and toe and heel bails. Older Catek toe lever parts will swap but that redundant I suppose. I would never make a claim like that.... For me, it gives me everything I want.

When Catek’s first came out and were directly mounted the the board, the rubber ring provided protection from creating a pinch point as the board flexed. Metal boards required a sub plate thus marking the ring redundant IMO. The bottom of my baseplate is only flat under the mounting screw locations and is saucer shaped out to the edge of the baseplate. This plus the Polycarbonate sub plate alleviate stress risers.

Catek revival project done. calling them Tribute Bindings (Tenacious D ref intended ) All parts will swap onto OS1 platform. SS cups for adjustments screws so no dimpling issues. 2 set screws to hold the toe bail up. adjustment ring with 2.5 degree increments of adjustment. Sphere nut replaced with Sphere bolt with Nyloc nut to prevent kingpin loosening. binding must be used in conjunction with the Polycarbonate plate which mounts to the board alone and prevents and corrects insert suck. if interested please contact me. Cheers. john

Not a bad idea..... I’ve got a set I could reverse engineer. I’ll take a look.

You are exactly right, unfortunately, as you increase canting angles, you decrease the number of threads in the sphere nut. I’m correcting this problem with my redesign.

I made the Sphere nuts as I didn’t need a large quantity. No plans on a toe lever version. I would consider producing batches of bindings on a yearly basis to order.

I’d love to get my hands on a set of OS 2 bindings and make a retro kit for the kingpin issue. The OS2 spherical nut design was a huge design flaw IMO. OS1 was far better. I have 9 pairs of complete bindings at the anodizer as we speak. The bindings will come with polycarbonate sub plates that protect the board and eliminate binding suck! I have modified the OS1 bindings to what I thought Catek should have done....sort of an OS1.5 if you will. Toe bail locking, SS adjustment screw cups with 2.5 degree angle jumps. Kingpin has a Nylok nut to prevent loosening. I’ll have a few pics soon. I have no intention of making a standard toe lever version as I don’t want to make toe levers.

Update...

I’m making some if you still have a need.

Toe bails done.