Calle Posted March 10, 2018 Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 Got a Apex V1 plate with the duckbill yesterday. Been trying it out today. Whats the general opinion on the duckbill? Stomping on it a bit I believe I can hear when the board contacts the plate. But I can't say if it makes it ride better or worse. Its hard to make back to back testing :D Board is Oxess RG. Positive: Might have positive impact Negative: Might have negative impact Looks strange Weight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted March 10, 2018 Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 JJA exhaustively researched it with the Canadian program... I vote to leave it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calle Posted March 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 And yet it was gone on the V2 probably because of the boards getting better adapted to the plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted March 10, 2018 Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 No idea, but I have a V2 and love it. But I don't think a cut down V1 = V2. I have an idea ... since JJA was involved in the development, why not just ask him? He's not too busy at the moment, maybe just send him an email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted March 10, 2018 Report Share Posted March 10, 2018 4 hours ago, daveo said: JJA exhaustively researched it with the Canadian program... I vote to leave it. The Canadian riders would put a foam block under the nose to control the nose flex on the board. Jasey used to swap out different densities of foam every training run until he dialed it in. Kessler started stiffening up the nose of the board a bit so the duckbill became unnecessary. Too bad because it was a nice place to put our logo. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colintkemp Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 You can cut. I've talked with Apex to confirm. The only reason not to that I've heard is that some of the 2010ish KSTs were built to be ridden with the v1 (hence the good comment above about the new stiffer noses), so not having the duckbill might change how those boards ride, or worse. Indeed, that is the only reason I have not cut the duckbill that I have; it's on a 2010 KST that was specifically designed for it, so I have concerns about folding the nose. I ride V2 on my other KSTs, and will cut the db once I move it off that board. PM of you want to discuss. I can dig up my emails with Apex to revall what they recommended for how to cut, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colintkemp Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 Oh, sorry--yes, when I ride that setup, the duckbill hits/flexes with the board big time. I thought that was expected/intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calle Posted March 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 The nose stiffness thing was what i thought. However not to the extent that they were built softer to utilize the duckbill. More testing today. Somehow its atleast confidence inspiring charging through ruts and hearing the board hitting the plate and knowing theres more support for the nose. Might be a good way of making it bend less in soft conditions? Apex info on how to cut would be most welcomed :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 46 minutes ago, Calle said: The nose stiffness thing was what i thought. However not to the extent that they were built softer to utilize the duckbill. More testing today. Somehow its atleast confidence inspiring charging through ruts and hearing the board hitting the plate and knowing theres more support for the nose. Might be a good way of making it bend less in soft conditions? Apex info on how to cut would be most welcomed :) I don't run Apex anymore but when I did, I would have to decline giving advice on any modifications. A couple of things to consider 1) it's a dusty, dirty job. 2) carbon fibre is very abrasive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 7 minutes ago, skategoat said: 2) carbon fibre is very abrasive. FWIW, for clean cuts on carbon tubing, I use a Metabo brand 'slicer' abrasive disc on an angle grinder, or mounted to a mitre saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Calle said: Apex info on how to cut would be most welcomed :) I don't know what Henry would say, but this is how I would do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 I'd leave it unless you see some negative effect. Might have a similar effect to the AllFlex plate where it allows free flex for a bit and then it stiffens the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelc Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 Use a diamond cutting disc on a grinder. Yes there will be dust. Wear a mask & eye protection as usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 11, 2018 Report Share Posted March 11, 2018 Taping over area to be cut ( top and bottom ) will reduce burr's on edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted March 12, 2018 Report Share Posted March 12, 2018 When i got my V1 I contacted apex and asked about trimming it, I explained that it was just slapping the board and very loud, apex said "Don't cut!!," I didn't, now I have a V2, no slap. If I were going to cut ' I'd mark my cut, not square, and use a coping saw then a bastard file to clean it up, just like the top edges of a snowboard. If I was going to cut square and was doing 100 of them I'd turn a carbide blade around in a circular saw, go outside, cover my eyes, wear a breathing aparatus, and go to town, if the blade wore out to fast I'd switch to a ceramic-fiber-metal blade $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colintkemp Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 Here is my follow up, with what I heard from Apex (cut/paste from an email exchange): "So its not a problem to cut the front off, so long as you leave enough room for your binding/boot to be fully supported by the nose. To cut it off, the best way is to use a cut off wheel in a die grinder. Assuming you do it out side and with the appropriate mask on. The resin may smell when you cut it with an abrasive cutter, but its the best way to make nice clean cuts without a CNC router. Carbon fiber destroys HSS or Bi metal bandsaw blades so unless you have an old blade you don't care about, abrasive cutting is the best way. Then sand the cut area with fine sandpaper to smooth off the end so you don't risk getting splinters." When I do it (sometime after this season), to get the right "shape," I plan to: put some tape across the V1 nose (thanks Lowrider for the great suggestion), take a V2 and lay it top-against-top across the V1, and then use a sharpie to trace/outline the V2 nose shape on the V1. Obviously, be careful if you do it, and you're doing it at your own risk (just like I will be). I'd be surprised if any express or implied warrant on a V1 survives all these years later, but I would think cutting the duckbill voids just about any warranty. Also, I'm not telling anyone they should do this (nor was Apex telling me that I should do this (merely that I could); rather, I'm just sharing the info I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveo Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 11 hours ago, colintkemp said: I would think cutting the duckbill voids just about any warranty. Pretty sure that warranty expired many years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calle Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Will keep it this season, maybe cut it for next season. It performs better than my boiler plates as is anyway. Don't know how much is up to using UPM pattern VS 4x4 or the plate itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calle Posted June 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 Some might have seen that the plate in question was cracked in several places. Anyways now its somewhat reparied and the duckbill is cut. No patience to make it look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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