Jack M Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 The preheated oven turned off method cooks the whole liner at once, in 15-20 minutes, not counting preheating time. Not sure what's so difficult about this that people would go looking for other science projects to heat them... Molding the liner to the boot as well as your foot is very important, IMO. I've cooked liners at home many many times, it's really not hard, and liners can be re-molded at least half a dozen times. The first time I got moldable liners I did take them to a shop. Guy didn't know what he was doing, despite telling me he does them all the time, and used heaters akin to hair dryers to heat just the inside, inadequately. This prompted me to learn how to DIY at home. DIY. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFChamp Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Well, whatever opinion you guys have or don't have on the different methods to heat boot liners, this tread got me exactly what I was looking for, a lot of information!! Thanks to all for your advice, comments and suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladia Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 I just did old pink Raichle liners. 30 minutes at 150F oven. It worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) On 3/2/2017 at 10:57 AM, Jack Michaud said: Not sure what's so difficult about this that people would go looking for other science projects to heat them... Cooking the liner is the easy part. Nobody is trying to solve the problem of how to get liners to soak up heat. The problem is with what comes after: specifically: getting the very soft, swolen, and delicate liner into the boot correctly—with all seams accurately located, no tearing of stitching, quickly, the first time. That is not always easy or successful ... particularly if you are doing things yourself. Many of the liners that I have seen that are done traditionally (cooked first, outside of the boots, and then stuffed into the boots after cooking) have problems with the alignment of the seams. I often see the seams around the heel are lopsided. This is important since it means that any extra ankle support padding elements in the liner will not be aligned, leading to a poor fit. I've seen this problem on liners cooked "professionally" and on liners cooked at home. Relevant aside: In my experience: many bootfitters are pretty slapdash about the process of getting the liner around your foot and in the boot accurately with all seams and parts in their correct place ... they tend to do a pretty piss-poor job in my experience. Heating up the liner while it is already in the boot makes it pretty damn impossible to screw this up. The seams are not going to move out of place while you are putting your foot in the liner since it is already somewhat held in position by the boot (and your footbed), and you're not going to do any damage putting the hot-swollen liner in the boot because ... it's already there. For me it isn't about making it easier or about not having to stick your boots in an oven: its about getting a perfect fit every time with no mistakes whatsoever. Edited March 7, 2017 by queequeg 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 I'm glad that you found this heating method works (and improved upon it). I have only tried heating liners twice before: 1) hot rice, 2) oven. With hot rice, I found it difficult to get the rice all the way into the toe. With the oven method I thought I may have ruined my liners. When I took them out of the oven they were gooey gelatinous blobs. Getting these on my feet & into the shells was very difficult and likely to cause them to wrinkle. I thought of other ways to heat the liners in the shells. That's when I came up with the boiling water method. I thought that maybe turkey bags were necessary but it sounds that you found that normal plastic bags work as well. Also, I'm more of a DIY guy and I find that if I am careful, I can do a better job than a "professional" (because it is my stuff and I am patient). I'd like to hear from others that have tried this method & see what they think. If you try it once, I think you'll find that it is pretty easy - and easy to edit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 13 hours ago, queequeg said: Cooking the liner is the easy part. Nobody is trying to solve the problem of how to get liners to soak up heat. I guess you missed all the sous-vide/boiling water, and rice discussions? No need for either. And the rice trick is really sub-optimal - you need to heat the whole liner, not just the inside. John E, sounds like you simply got your liners too hot maybe. Oven preheated to 225F then turned off right before cooking is all you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) 6 hours ago, Jack Michaud said: I guess you missed all the sous-vide/boiling water, and rice discussions? I guess you missed the part where I was pretty deeply involved in both of those discussions ... Edited March 7, 2017 by queequeg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunSurfer Posted April 16, 2017 Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 (edited) Just done a Google search for "EVA thermal properties". Intuition build their liners out of EVA foam. Long story - read the attached pdf. Long story to short. 1/ EVA foam gas bubbles lose volume if the foam is heated too much. The foam then shrinks. Minimal gas loss occurs at 60C, but shrinkage is measurable and greater with higher temps and longer time exposed. 2/ If you want to heat mould EVA then even heating through the foam is the key. EVA is a good insulator so achieving even heating takes time. For me that adds up to a slow & low temp warming in an oven I've checked with a thermometer. ultralon datasheet.pdf Edited April 16, 2017 by SunSurfer Add detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted April 16, 2017 Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 If you have any issues with a big toe it's easy to fix with a heat gun and and a simply made device using some galvanized pipe in a vice. Further questions please ask as I can post some photos, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted January 2, 2018 Report Share Posted January 2, 2018 I tried this again last weekend on my boots. I had some turkey bags left over from last season that I re-used. Again, this method works GREAT except: make sure that your bags don't leak. I think the old bags I used had some cracks in them. Though I didn't know it, near-boiling hot water leaked into my boot liners. When I put my feet in, the hot water was REALLY hot!. I had to take my feet out to let the water cool a bit and then put my feet back in. I think the reason this works so well is that: 1) Water has a very high heat content. The liter or so of hot water really heats up the liners to the right temperature (190 - 210 degrees F). 2) You don't have to try to stuff a hot, noodly liner into a cold hard shell. Try it. I think new turkey cooking bags are safest but maybe regular old plastic bags would work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Don't ever let someone tell you you shouldn't do it yourself . We only have one kick at this can an non of us are getting off of this earth alive . Tinker on ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Can anyone offer experience with heatgunning pressure points on already-molded liners? I had mine done by a pro, but they pinch the outsides of my forefeet. Was thinking about bolstering those points on my feet, heatgunning that part of the liner, and buckling down really tight. Would this work? How much heatgunning would be required? Thanks for your inputs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Several ways to go about this, depending on the extent of the pinch spots. You can spot heat and then wear a larger sock for the 'set' phase. Or you can spot heat with a blob of foam adhered to the hot spot, as a means of 'overmolding'. The tricky thing is directing the heat, as a hairdryer will be too slow and broad, and the typical 'over the counter' heat gun may not come with a conical concentrator nozzle. Also, you can try slicing a cross-hairs into the outer layer of fabric, and/or thinning that spot with a grinder. Make sure the nub isn't actually contacting the boot shell first though. If it is, you need to punch the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Thank you for your pointers. Since my feet where fine (width-wise) in the stock liners in the same shells, I believe there should be enough room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Also: If your 5th met distal is the hot spot, and your 1st met distal is prominent, mold the 'big' side before the small side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 The hot spot is somewhat to the rear of the 5th met, and my 1st met is NOT prominent. My feet may be weird, but there are some manners of weirdness they do not feature ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 I have that same prominence, 5th met proximal. Cut an Eichel in half vertically, stick half to the prominence on your foot with the cap end pointing forward, then spot heat and mold as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 I have to ask, what is an Eichel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) Du schreibst nicht aus Österreich? Acorn. Edited January 4, 2018 by Beckmann AG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Oh. I thought it was an arcane brand name of bootfitting paraphernalia :-) The "hot spot" is less focused in my case. It doesn't seem connected to a bone nub. It seems I rather need something like a 1,5 x 4 cm bolster, longitudinally applied, starting behind the metatarsal joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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