Heel lift? Toe lift? Both?

[waypastfast]

Hey Everyone, I think I saw a thread on this a while back, but just curious as who is running heel lift? Toe lift or both? I currently run heel lift with a cant on my F2's. But thinking to adding a toe lift as I find I am putting too much pressure on my front leg. Any thoughts? Thanks!

[Surf Quebec]

You'll have all kinds of answers on that one.

Most of the riders I know ride with some heel lift and with no or very little toe lift.

You usually use lift to have a bigger stance.

People who follow EC advices ride with no lift.

[Corey]

Agreed, answers will be all over the map. I found I LOVE 6 degrees of toe lift on the front foot and 6 degrees of heel lift on the rear foot. My legs were splayed in a way that I found uncomfortable and tiring at 3 and 3, going to 6 and 6 let my legs relax. From what I've seen of other carvers at places like SES, the majority tend to use 0 or 3-degree cants. Some racers I've seen in photos use HUGE rear heel lifts.

Try every option you can and pick the one that feels best when riding.

[BlueB]

Carpet carving until the legs feel happy, then check riding, fine tune if required.

[Jack M]

Here's some reading on this: http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/cant_lift.html

[leeho730]

What do you mean by "putting too much pressure" on your front leg?

[Cuban Carving Gooding]

Yes Toe and heel lift on my F2s. Or what ever the board has when i ride it. Just make it turn.

[Guest]

FWIW I can't use heel lift (pain in my feet), I must have about 3* toe lift to ride the stance I like. I can narrow the stance if I don't run any lift, but I don't like the feel of the narrow stance. I know what you mean about having too much weight on the front leg. It took me a while to get everything dialed in. I would try keeping your stance but reversing the lift (so toe lift on your lead foot) OR if that doesn't work then try slightly narrower/slightly wider. When making adjustments, only change one thing at a time (if you have the patience) as this can really help pin point issue. Sadly, it took several "equipment tuning days" on the mountain for me to get everything right. Sucks but once it works it works. Again, sadly, the F2's are kind of annoying to add lift to (so many turns of the screws...)

Edited November 28, 2012 by NickG

[Bobby Buggs]

Been running F2 big block heel lift and 2 opposed shims for toe lift for almost 10 years

[philw]

Me, it depends which boots I'm using, it seems. With the old Rachlie 225s I rode flat, but with the Indies and now HSPs I have a bit of heel and a bit of toe lift, slightly more back than front, all with standard F2 shims. I think it's related to the forward lean angle on the boots, or maybe the stiffness. Possibly if you play with one it will affect the other, if you think about how it works. I suppose stance width is a factor too.

[bigwavedave]

on longer carve/race boards I like 6 deg heel, 3 deg toe, combination lift/cant on each.

[heroshmero]

3 degree toe lift, 3 degree heel lift. No canting.

I find that the toe lift on the front foot puts the ankle in a flexed position which helps engage the knee and hip.

[BlueB]

3 deg toe, 6 deg heel, no cant, 5 deg splay for carving;

3 deg toe, 3-6 deg heel, inward cant rear, 15-20 deg splay, for fooling around, AM, pow;

3 deg toe, 3 deg heel, no cant, biased "duck" stance (yes, on h/boots!), for teaching beginners.

[Algunderfoot]

3 degree toe lift, 3 degree heel lift. No canting.

I find that the toe lift on the front foot puts the ankle in a flexed position which helps engage the knee and hip.

Yup after a bunch of second hand binders and experiments the 3-3 works for me and there is some Fin Doyle inspired logic with that. The front plate is the gas pedal and the rear is the brake, with that said I enjoy an easily acquired neutral ( autocruze) position and know exactly where to press for go and where to press for slow. Comfort seems to come more from plate angles than lift angles.