zoltan Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 I'm sorry I didn't make this clear in my original post, but I'm planning on getting a new board one way or the other, as the F2 is too narrow for the angles I want to run. The question is, do I buy a cheap board or go all out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 It is nice to see all the 'yes' responses! Yes, a beginner should have the most forgiving board possible. Rebecca and I stepped on the infamous, Titanal topsheeted Prior Metals 4 years ago as more or less beginners. The ones we got were still a bit long for us, but they were so much easier for a beginner to ride! So forgiving. The current board design is so much better now than 4 years ago. I have watched many responses over the last few years saying that you should wait to buy a metal board until you are better. It is great to see that changing and their ease of riding becoming much more accepted. The tricky part is getting the board that suits your weight, ability level, aggressiveness, and riding style. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Zoltan, If you're getting a new board anyway, why wouldn't you get a new school shape in metal???? If you just took up mountain biking on an old, used, straight wall steel, rigid fork, bike with a slack geometry and decided you liked the sport enough to stick with it and were going to get a new bike because the used one you have is a size too small, would you buy an outdated, new-old stock bike with a rigid fork just because you feel you aren't good enough to be using the new tech.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDB Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Zoltan- Order an All-Mountain board from Bruce just like mine.....I rode like a Hero till a skiier tried to take the nose off it while I was toeside....could have been real ugly. Bruce can it be fixed?? If not I would like to order another one... as I could carve with confidence in places I never had before....could tighten the radius to round towers and trees, off camber heelside turns were do-able for me for a change.....a beautiful, responsive, grippy work of art. I miss it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pow4ever Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Hi Zoltan: All these time I thought I was a quick learner :) a forgiving board does make learning quicker/easier. If you are in the market of a new board. Demo them if you can @ events such as SES/ECES. Metal board have different characters from each vendor. Just my 2 cents on metal: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=289666&postcount=9 I don't do Bruce's board any justice. LOL Probably am the only person keep wiping out while riding his board @ ECES. I had a great time doing it though. HTH David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I'm sorry I didn't make this clear in my original post, but I'm planning on getting a new board one way or the other, as the F2 is too narrow for the angles I want to run. The question is, do I buy a cheap board or go all out? If you can afford it, go for it. Metal boards are easier to ride, and easier to get better on. If the money isn't a major concern, there would be no point in handicapping yourself with a used old-tech board. My general philosophy about toys is, if you know you're going to upgrade to the toy you really want later, money spent on a compromise now is money and time wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 If you can afford it, go for it. Metal boards are easier to ride, and easier to get better on. If the money isn't a major concern, there would be no point in handicapping yourself with a used old-tech board.My general philosophy about toys is, if you know you're going to upgrade to the toy you really want later, money spent on a compromise now is money and time wasted. Money is always a concern, but I'll afford what I want. My main concern was, if a metal board didn't do much for a rider until they're good...well...at the pace I'm progressing I could squeeze in an extra board or two before I could actually benefit from metal. I would absolutely hate to spend the money on a new metal board, ride it, and then not really notice a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 You're in Maryland? Ride on the East Coast? You will notice a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapster Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Another way to look at it---if you're already experiencing obstacles in learning to carve, why not remove as many of those obstacles as you can in the easiest manner possible? For me, I decided that a small sidecut was holding me back. (Sure, it feels safer, but its hard to experiment with basic techniques when the "meat" of your turn only lasts 2 seconds.) I had already figured out my preferred waist width and length. So, I was pretty sure I could nail down the type of board that would last me for a few years as I progress. From that point of clarity, going metal was a no-brainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C5 Golfer Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 If you can afford it, go for it. Metal boards are easier to ride, and easier to get better on. If the money isn't a major concern, there would be no point in handicapping yourself with a used old-tech board.My general philosophy about toys is, if you know you're going to upgrade to the toy you really want later, money spent on a compromise now is money and time wasted. Good point Jack on money and time wasted-- I generally think the same way ..I think there maybe a BUT here I 'll toss out --- if you took a poll of most of the riders here and asked them how many boards did they buy and sell in the first 4 years of riding to figure out what they liked and disliked..I'd be suprised if it was less than 8 boards.. Personally I have probably gone thru 2X that number over the last 7 years... there is always the case of buy used, ride it, trade it , ride it , buy one, ride it, trade it, borrow one or two - ride it and then decide. I am just glad I rode a lot of used old style boards over the years..Cheap education and not much money wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I think there maybe a BUT here I 'll toss out --- if you took a poll of most of the riders here and asked them how many boards did they buy and sell in the first 4 years of riding to figure out what they liked and disliked..I'd be suprised if it was less than 8 boards.. Personally I have probably gone thru 2X that number over the last 7 years...there is always the case of buy used, ride it, trade it , ride it , buy one, ride it, trade it, borrow one or two - ride it and then decide. I am just glad I rode a lot of used old style boards over the years..Cheap education and not much money wasted. This is a very valid point. Rebecca and I had our 8 boards in the first year or two. You can buy and sell used old school boards without losing much money. Soon though, when there are enough used new school ones, and you will be able to do this much more cost effectively. At the moment, it just cost a little more, but, if you can afford it, it is definitely worth it. At any rate, used value on a hardly ridden metal Coiler is not much lower than the new price from Bruce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetaTre Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 if you took a poll of most of the riders here and asked them how many boards did they buy and sell in the first 4 years of riding to figure out what they liked and disliked..I'd be suprised if it was less than 8 boards.. Good to know that's just how it is... I was starting to think I had OCD :freak3: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I've only had 2 alpine boards in about 4 years. The new one is much better than the old (for me). I would imagine an experienced carver could look good riding an "old-school" board. My guess is that the rider is the biggest factor and the board is secondary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 Good to know that's just how it is... I was starting to think I had OCD :freak3: How do you know you don't? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t.stoughton Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Hummmm... Go for it! Get a metal! Try a Donek Metal Axxess. It's an All Mountain board that should help you ride better or a FC Metal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted December 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Final result: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mykcuz Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 You sound like me in the way that this purchase will be under yuour feet for several seasons. I just checked out hardbooter.com yest. and they have like 15 boards on clearance, starting at like 200 going to 1000 or 1200 for a brandy new kessler. lots of variety in types. i wish i did more research on finding the deal deal for a new board. but i am also pleased with my volkl. if i was in the market with cash, this is how i would approach it... meet boarders locally and watch them ride, and pay attention to the boards, maybe even switch boards with a friend and pay attention to the difference in ride. get some education. then demo everything possible in the same mindset. get a top 5 list that you think offer what you want. find a closeout or demo board for sale, demos normally sell for nothing and have like 10 days of riding or less. either snag something on a steal, or if you have the cash to support the industry tell a builder what you like about each of your top 5 boards and expect to be in the 1000 neighborhood. the last step is most important...carve it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Someone correct me if I'm wrong but aren't metal boards more easy to break-delam? And when someone is learning they fall allot -and board catches nose-tail and without much control! I broke allot of boards(glass ones) and most of them when i was learning,now after many years of hardbooting i think i can protect my boards and treat them better,so is it a good idea for a learner to spend big bucks on a metal board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mxjas38 Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Zoltan, My wife and I will also be doing early morning weekends at Whitetail and Roundtop. We will have to meet up sometime. Let me know when you are going. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Sweet Zoltan! What is it? No Valsam, current metal boards seem to hold up just as well as the older glass ones. At least from talking to Bruce and watching broken board postscripts here on BOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Sweet Zoltan! What is it?No Valsam, current metal boards seem to hold up just as well as the older glass ones. Ahh, but hasn't the way that they are being ridden changed a bit? Many folks are now riding metals with plates or spacers, or bindings with lots of cushioning on the underside. That wasn't happening as much with glass boards. Several things have changed, not just the board variable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Ahh, but hasn't the way that they are being ridden changed a bit? Many folks are now riding metals with plates or spacers, or bindings with lots of cushioning on the underside. That wasn't happening as much with glass boards. Several things have changed, not just the board variable. True, to a point. The binding makers improved their binding cushioning a bit but the biggest improvement was the board builders reinforcing under the bindings. I am pretty sure Bruce's first year of mostly metal boards was pre-TD3 and his failure rate was zero. Plates are only coming into use this year for freecarvers. A couple of years ago we all scrambled to get spacers under our bindings. The next year almost no one used them at all. Most of the binding at that time were still TD2 and Catek, yet there were very few failures, if any, due to the board being metal construction. The early Kesslers and first gen Prior's were pretty much the last fragile metal boards but their reputation is lasting. I did see one metal board that had a section of base ripped off to expose bare titinal. This was more than your typical core shot but no repairs would hold. If it had been wood, it could have been repaired. That is a rare situation for a carve board though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bora20 Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Would a plate (like Donek) help with the learning curve on any board? I imagine that since it allows the board to do what it does, while isolating the rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boarderboy Posted December 4, 2010 Report Share Posted December 4, 2010 Would a plate (like Donek) help with the learning curve on any board? I imagine that since it allows the board to do what it does, while isolating the rider. Varies by design, but plates always raise your boots above the deck. It seems to me that would make it easier to pressure your edges - thus initiate a turn - but also easier to edge too much and "wash out", or worse. However, over a couple hours' riding in less than ideal groom, the plate's fatigue-preventing isolation could more than compensate for any problems caused by the increased responsiveness of the board?? Haven't ridden metal, but much forum reading leads me to believe well-designed customs should making learning much easier. Good luck! BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Would a plate (like Donek) help with the learning curve on any board? I imagine that since it allows the board to do what it does, while isolating the rider. No, an Isolation plate system is not for those with little experience riding. At slow speeds they have no handling at all, coming to a stop is a relearning experience. The added weight is not something that you want when wiping out while learning. Go with a newer glass or metal if you can and stay away from ips until you are experienced. My opinion. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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