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Soft Bindings For Freecarving


docrob

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My large Co2's weigh 1148g each

Is that so? Oh bugger, I estimated the weight of my '06-'07 CO2 medium I had based on salomon '08-'09 SPX caliber medium (945g). Obviously I'm very likely to be wrong again, after exaggerating the weight difference between CO2 and FR2!

I'll properly measure up both bindings at some stage.

Bola, please accept my apology for being erroneous, on top of the other things. After all, all this fuss wouldn't have started if I were not so pig-headed... And I believe FR2 is the best binding for softboot carving in the market at the moment.

I'll probably focus on hardboot carving now (and probably stay away from any softboot carving thread indefinitely for my own good), now that I've got some new alpine toys (SW, Swoard)...

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  • 3 weeks later...

This doesn't belong on BOL, but Flows have come up in this thread. FYI, 2010 Flow NXT-FRX on sale for 50% off March 1st and 2nd at SierraSnowboard.com. That's $175. Hold out a while longer and they may go to 70%... or be sold out. It's really the only model left in the flow line that still competes with the Nidecker Carbons or Catek Freerides in support and stiffness. (I sold my Nidecker's this year; just using Flows)

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Despite the sales pitch on the flow site, how does it really differ from the NXT-AT?

can you change the angle of the highback to use with a more forward facing stance (not lean)? Are the buckles any stronger?

The NXT-AT is pretty flexible all around. The FRX highback will be considerably stiffer. Not so noticeable front to back, but stiffer from twisting, which will be noticeable if you start increasing angles. Plus, it's a multi-piece thing where the top of the highback can be rotated slightly to suit higher binding angles. The biggest difference is that the FRX strap is way more supportive than the AT strap. It's still an I-flex shape, so not as supportive as a few years ago, but this one is way beefier than anything else in their lineup. The baseplate might have a higher durometer padding underneath, but the other hardware is probably the same.

Burton C60's are half-off too, if that's more you style. I just don't like dealing with straps anymore.

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Thanks Johnasmo, I'll get a pair.

Ronin; please explain how you use those shims with e.g. the soft bindings, e.g.Flow-frx.

Someone (French M?) was on about benefits of rear foot heel lift with soft setups with carving angles. I think it was on the other more recent soft setup thread.

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Does anyone have experience with Union bindings? Specifically the Force SL's.

currently I own and use 3 soft bindings

Catek FR2 -rossignol judge 159 (makes me have more edge hold using the Catek)

Union Force DLX 2006 (Rossignol Judge 168)

2009 Rome david Bowie binding. (Salomon 160cm Sick stick)

The Union Sl is almost identical to the Older DLX except with softer ankle straps IIRC.

Union bindings buckles have springs that give out over time. I get about a season out of a set of buckles.

The Rome binding seems to hold well with less strap pressure than the Unions binding straps.

The Catek FR2 give me the most cutting power on icy condtions, but have less dampening over end of the day rutted stuff. I use Union Straps on my FR2.

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Thanks for info John, how do you like them as a freeride/carve binding?

The Unions...?

I like them. I even can EC in them....which I can not do in Burtons or flows.

I particularly like that I can position the toe strap at different angles so I actually pin different joints on each foot to prevent roll. Also I use the sliding heel cup and sliding gas pedal to adjust for Gilmour Bias without giving up my micro adjustment slots in front and rear stance width.

Here is how I strap in...as if anyone cares....

I ride with both bindings angled ....45 front and less in the rear.....both highbacks fully rotated..with more highback lean on the rear than the front (front is on almost straightest notch- the idea being to pre position your knees to reduce lag time when going edge to edge (most highback lean on the rear means your rear knee is over the toe edge more and you will be able to pedal your rear highback to change turn radius easier on the heelside) . a good amount of of Gilmour Bias too with the heel cups..)

Get the board up on the heel edge about 25- 40 degrees... put your front foot in...and crank on the ankle strap until your toe rises off the binding almost an inch. Finish your front binding then do the same for rear binding.

Using the toe straps I pin between the big knuckles of the front big toe with the front binding - with toe strap going diagonally from that big toe knuckle to little toe following the "toe line up- though ending slightly inward of the pinky toe) and the pinky toe of the rear foot with the rear binding toe strap gets pinned straight across without a diagonal....... I keep cranking until you feel it pinned strongly to the board. To me..... it almost feels like a hard boot when I clip in this way- SUPER RESPONSIVE. BTW I hate toe cap straps.. they don't let you pin down your foot bio-mechanically the same way.

I just tested this one day on a carpet while watching TV ..and tried to find what prevented inner foot rotation- this is what works for me

So try this out on the carpet.. it works....prevents roll completely and gives you very quick edge to edge response similar to hard boots.....in some ways faster response since there is less weight.

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  • 1 year later...

Just put this set up together this year. Wow, it actually is not bad. I picked up a 95 Asym Air 164. With 40-45 degree angles I was able to carve like a madman (for softboots anyway) It was warm, comfortable, and easy to hold an edge. I was not comfy at higher speeds, but I was able to lay em down and dig some trenches. A couple coiler guys I ran into gave me the nod for even trying it. The high angles are good with stiffer boots.

Not as bad as you would have thought.

L-

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