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docrob

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Everything posted by docrob

  1. Thanks Johnasmo, I'll get a pair. Ronin; please explain how you use those shims with e.g. the soft bindings, e.g.Flow-frx. Someone (French M?) was on about benefits of rear foot heel lift with soft setups with carving angles. I think it was on the other more recent soft setup thread.
  2. Despite the sales pitch on the flow site, how does it really differ from the NXT-AT? can you change the angle of the highback to use with a more forward facing stance (not lean)? Are the buckles any stronger?
  3. Boardski; Be sure to let us know how you go on with the NTN boots (Term pro/prophet). I also want to try NTN. If I could use the boots in my sidewinders for carving, and in the Fritschi Freeride and Marker Baron AT bindings, I'd be stoked !
  4. Crucible: Re liner compression when worn without heating... Is this reversible once cooked? I've worn my my new scarpa TX2 tele boots half a dozen times out of the box without cooking; still looking for a neighbor with a suitable oven since ours doesn't have a fan/control temps well (at least that's the wifes excuse!). Keyser: Are those really hardbooting board boots? They look interestingly ski compatible (my dream-one pair to take on the plane for ski and board).
  5. maybe it makes sense to get the goggles to fit the helmet. Goggles are pretty cheap, but they can't yet replace youre onboard computer ! Just get a great helmet!
  6. For once in the UK, I found something of good value! Check out this wax: http://www.datawax.com/datawax/showrange.do?range=1 Might be of interest to anyone passing through on the way to the alps. Look at the prices! E.g. 150 g graphite for less than a cheap sixpack. I've found the polar X is great after base prep and under an all temperature wax on your New England slopes to protect the base. Just replace the top coat after a few days, and repeat etc...no need to deep cleans/graphite flush the base til the next season. Some of the Holmenkol waxes aren't a bad price either: £4 for 150 g is in the same ballpark: http://www.skiracing.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_54 I can't believe the price you're paying for wax there. That's getting towards the price of a new board every few seasons!? Surely better to build a wax box to push a regular wax in deeper? Both Holmenkol and Data waxes are used to win downhill races in the alps. They can't be that bad!
  7. Can I recommend the Giro Remedy full face downhill bike helmet? The carbon model is really light, and it has lots of vents to avoid overheating. If you are concerned about precipitation getting in, you can always tape over them.
  8. This seems like a good place to ask about the relative merits of the current Deeluxe, Head and UPZ offerings. The less they feel like a block of concrete the better ! I don't have a chance to go look / try where I am.
  9. researched this extensively before starting boarding. Went with Flexmeter in gloves (can't remove them from the gloves), and the same without gloves. The gloves were / are quite restricting, and the 2008/9 double (dorsal and ventral splints) guards were uncomfortable because the palmside (ventral) splint was too long, and not well padded, so it pinched into the first finger joint past the knuckle on all fingers when boarding with a closed fist; presenting the risk of injury there if falling in the recommended way with fingers tucked in. The 2009/2010 "plus" model (for "snow and skate" european terminology)...sold by Snowboard secrets US as the ex glove "all season" model, and in the glove as the black 2009/2010 model, and another stronger (ex glove "snowboard") model (european terminology-see german flexmeter website), both address this problem. The gloves can be mitts or fingered. I think that the ultimate snowboarding setup would be the gloveless double snowboard model used in a nice mitt of your choice. This allows removal and drying / cleaning/ repair of the guard, and replacement /swaping of the glove according to conditions. These guards are in my opinion the best on the market
  10. Stance width: "inseam"? Can anyone tie that measurement down to something less variable? I.e. from where to where exactly..e.g. to where legs join (tackle swept aside?) from ankle bone along the leg, or direct?
  11. What are those 3 bindings in the pic above please, left to right, and merits for soft boot carving.
  12. Yeah, I saw later warhols on sale too, but you specified 2006. Wondered if the more recent ones had the same properties?<O:p</O:p Not quite clear why the Cateks crush the boot more than other soft bindings?<O:p</O:p So you recommend the warhols only with other soft bindings than Catek?<O:p</O:p Was looking for a carving boot also with K2 Cinch CTX.<O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p Are you saying that the FR2 has plenty of inbuilt riser adjustment?<O:p</O:p What about the “edgerisers” (dot com)? They aren’t made for any particular binding. Would they work with the Fr2?<O:p</O:p
  13. John Gilmour,<O:p</O:p Interesting post.<O:p</O:p So non articulating cuff boots won’t help make up for the stiffness of a hard boot?<O:p</O:p Are the post 2006 Any Warhols just as good?.. inc’ with lateral stiffness?<O:p</O:p Better than Driver X? <O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p Can’t the Cateks accept a toe cup from another manufacturer?<O:p</O:p Didn’t someone on here enjoy swapping in Burton straps…good idea? <O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p Oh, and anyone know how much rise the Fr2 Cateks can adjust to?<O:p</O:p
  14. Burton Driver X ! Can get 2010 Deeluxe Track 700 from Austria for not much more than the dollars for this boot. Am I right that they'll be cheaper in a few months? I noticed Sierra Snowboard had a great price on these just; but out of my size. Technine 2010/11 Mens Pro Series Team Pro and Blue Magoon; with the “scrub hook highback” wings only on the side they’d be needed on, lift adjustment and additional rotational option. A decent binding, or hype for baghomme and bagette? <O:p
  15. looking forward to checking it out; and Hatteras!
  16. Bumpy, But can all/most burtons have plates swopped out? do any other brand plates fit flush? Will check Necd'; thanks.
  17. Any other recommendations for stiff but also quality softboots other than Malamute? and can the Burton 3 hole plates be swapped for four hole? If so, what brand?
  18. Have carvers ever considered as a group wearing something of e.g. a certain dayglo that the masses will learn to identify, and which could be flagged up at the resorts until the public learn it? Stunning Videos to music maybe (provided free by the carving community), making them aware of how carvers use the slope; e.g. in the cafe or wherever. ..Could end up with more folk carving, cheaper kit, better grooming, and more specialist venues. They've had a deal of success in the UK making 4 wheel drivers aware of motorcyclists with posters reminding drivers to look out for us/ reminding them that we will often rapidly be in and out of (or dead in), their zone of influence before they are aware of it. If their brains are already primed, and there is a public acceptance of the vulnerability of carvers, and carvers are easy to spot, maybe things would improve.
  19. Johnasmo, Thanks! What's the difference between the Pro C FR, Pro S FR and Pro 11 FR?
  20. Ronin 42, ALL of that is absolutely fascinating; although I kept asking questions all the way through reading it! I'm a scientist at heart and by job, and really get excited by new ideas and stuff that challenges dogma. Where can I read more about what you were talking about please? Namely: "Hot Gear Bag. That also began at Footloose with boiling (steaming) the shells as essential for fitting and for molding the shells to the feet: Where can I find the detailed procedure, and debate about this? By the way, I would need say to those who come to this thread who do boot fitting/sell footbeds etc retail....I used the emotive term "ripoff" as a devils advocate to draw controversy and attention to the thread. I fully accept that folk who sell/fit have various overheads to cover. PS. Who decides how we are referred to under our usernames? How is it that one moment I'm a "skidder", and the next "Groomer Grommet" whatever that is?! (Grommet=cringle: fastener consisting of a metal ring for lining a small hole to permit the attachment of cords or lines)???????????????!!!
  21. Some amazing info there! ..Thanks drzone and Leeho, psdcarve. "do I MIND ?" Leeho !! That's invaluable info you gave..I printed it off. Lots of folk will I'm sure find that useful. It's looking amazing what experienced alpine boarders can do with soft setups. Drzone; I bet Jacques/Fivat are stoked! Yomama the first eh? Had decided to play around with the "Norm" and linking carves using my Cinch CTX and malamutes on the Palmer pulse; instead of getting the technine pro series with the scrub high back and cant and lift options, after what Rob advised re' not being too concerned about bindings in the learning stage. The Cinch binding has quite a high back with forward lean adjustment, and clamps the foot pretty firmly. Also, there are a couple of vertical slots down each side of the high back. I thought I could slip a 2" wide nylon strap through and round my leg, closed with a quick release pack style clip, like a third strap if I needed the extra leverage/ankle protection. I'd still be interested in any opinions about those Technine bindings. Positioned for park and pipe, wouldn't they be too flexible? Although if so, the ramps and highback wings contraindicate. Also, the wings surely need to be both on the same side of the L and R bindings for carving with feet both pointing forwards. These seem to be on opposite sides (for duck?).
  22. I guess they do last then! But does the liner get crushed /compessed underneath with the point loading? I want my boots to stay as tight and warm as long as possible. I had matched the softec regular for the snug fitting boots (downhill), ultra for the roomier tele' / skinning boots and various pac boots, the slim sport for the really snug hardboots and malamutes. Can't decide between these, and the hard plastic type that spreads the load over the liner better, but don't change shape once cooked. What do ya reckon? I watched some fitters work, and learned..in one case what not to do ..! I'm handy enough to do myself.
  23. Yes:lol:! I'm glad you're discussing Sole footbeds. I like the 8 of the same or assorted with 25% off, and they tailor for a wide range for uses...even quite a good diagnostic tool if you can find it...and maybe even find it again! I could happily use 2 dozen right now. In Fact, what I've always been weighing in my head is: What are the pros and cons, REALLY, of: 1)mouldable EVA padded reinforced plastic (like the widely used state of the art skiing footbed in europe..I.E. Conform'able.) They last forever; BUT: You either have them moulded to a static loaded foot, or a passive/neutral :sleep:unloaded foot. Oh, and state of the art boot fitters still totally disagree about which is best. It doesn't take a biologist, interested in biomechanics such as me, to reveal that neither represents a fully warmed up and pumping foot on the hill:freak3:! Also, ..at $£$£$£$EE$£$loadsadosh; in my opinion double the price they need to be due to no competition (real opener here for a boot manufacturer -garmont/scarpa etc to do it in house and include them with the boot and clean up) I'm thinking.. 2)An ideal might be a footbed that is partially moulded to an inactive (preferably loaded) foot, but then which continues to mould to the active foot in use. ....such as Sole footbeds by insole ! My only reservation is that the EVA of the liner will possibly compact more under the deformable (softish) Sole footbed..not good, and presumably a footbed that is EVA itself; with no hard plastic, will deform/collapse sooner, and have a shorter life?? So maybe sole aren't such a bargain? I really feel we have been blinded with dodgy science and are now being significantly overcharged re' footbeds . Charges seem to be mounting, but still with no real effort to deliver a product of equivalent quality. Compare the relative price to that of a boot for example. It's significantly higher for a lot less technology and R&D. What I am really suggesting is, that, if we punters could be a little more critical, and price conscious, maybe the product might get a little better. It would also be good if we could patronise any entrepreneurs who are breaking new ground here, instead of just reluctantly shelling out a small but collectively huge amount of money for overpriced products. Here endeth the rant. n hindsight-they aren't too extortionate your side of the atlantic, but in the UK, the skiiers generally are wealthy, yet probably on average only buy one pair of boots before they get too fat to ski or do much else. To them, £50 for a footbed is inconsequential; which allows the prices of these consumables to march up and up into the stratosphere. But I need 2 or 3 pairs a year at least. it gets significant, and irritating.
  24. Thanks ursle! Although I spent a lot of time reading about modern sidecut etc when carving skis really made their debut in the years recovering after my skiing accident in '83! Then,again, having got back into it again in the last few years and branching into tele skiing more recently. As regards angles, discussions here have me pretty clear about what I'm going to experiment with. It's really down to picking the most relevant kit now, and quickly; since I only have a few more days this season, and there's not a lot of snow in NH right now. Not on snow this easter. Missed the full climbing body work out last easter skiing and boarding in Austria, so climbing in Arizona this year. That's it then until next Christmas in New Hampshire.
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