Boot/binding question

[photodad2001]

I just got my first pair of hard boots (Burton MGXs), and I'm trying to fit the boot with the binding (also Burton and from a different seller) and wanted to know how much tension there should be when closing the bail. Do I want it where I really have to crank down on it or should it flip closed realatively easy?

[tdifan_2003]

When you have it cliped, the boot shouldn't be able to move in any direction (side to side or front to back). How do you achieve that - moving the toe and heel sides appropriately.

Also, on the funny side - when I had my bindings (Cateks) too tight, I snapped a tendon on one of my fingers (mallet finger) while clipping in . It's all good now, but I had to wear a splint for 6 weeks straight.

[Corey]

Someone here suggested that you should just barely be able to close the clip with one hand in a standing position, and easily with two. I had a release at a lower tension than that and no further releases after I bumped it up to that criteria.

[KingCrimson]

I have to really push to get my toebail closed, but I often feel happy if I can hit my hand while applying pressure and get it to pop shut.

Only had a release when I broke a binding!

[queequeg]

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I am not sure that Butron MGX (megaflex) boots were compatible with the burton hardboot bindings that most of us are familiar with today. These boots were designed for the older burton race plates (pictured below for reference) that featured longer bails and a different toe piece that was designed for the MGX boot. You may want to be very careful trying to get these boots into a modern binding, as the shape of the toe area may not permit many modern bails from closing correctly--and if that is the case the combination could be extremely hazardous to you on the mountain. I seem to recall that the MGX was not compatible with the more modern flavor of burton bail bindings. I did get mine to work in the Carrier Step-ins, since these did not involve a toe-bail or a specific heel piece system like the intec/physics systems, or a toe bail like the regular manual-bail bindings - but I don't know how well they would work with modern bindings.

I could be wrong (and I hope that I am) but I would double check--make sure that the wider/higher-profile toe of the MGX boot does not prevent the Toe Bail Lever from seating correctly and does not prevent the Toe Bail tension to securely pass the threshold where it will not flip out and release ... you don't ever want to prematurely release from a binding. Prerelease can be extremely hazardous to your health to say the least.

If they prove not to be compatible, I would imagine you may be able to work things out by replacing the newer bail with a bail lever from one of the old raceplates pictured below (provided the more recent bails are a similar diameter, and fit around the wider MGX toebox) ... but that seems pretty risky to me.

[photodad2001]

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I am not sure that Butron MGX (megaflex) boots were compatible with the burton hardboot bindings that most of us are familiar with today. These boots were designed for the older burton race plates (pictured below for reference) that featured longer bails and a different toe piece that was designed for the MGX boot. You may want to be very careful trying to get these boots into a modern binding, as the shape of the toe area may not permit many modern bails from closing correctly--and if that is the case the combination could be extremely hazardous to you on the mountain. I seem to recall that the MGX was not compatible with the more modern flavor of burton bail bindings. I did get mine to work in the Carrier Step-ins, since these did not involve a toe-bail or a specific heel piece system like the intec/physics systems, or a toe bail like the regular manual-bail bindings - but I don't know how well they would work with modern bindings.

I could be wrong (and I hope that I am) but I would double check--make sure that the wider/higher-profile toe of the MGX boot does not prevent the Toe Bail Lever from seating correctly and does not prevent the Toe Bail tension to securely pass the threshold where it will not flip out and release ... you don't ever want to prematurely release from a binding. Prerelease can be extremely hazardous to your health to say the least.

If they prove not to be compatible, I would imagine you may be able to work things out by replacing the newer bail with a bail lever from one of the old raceplates pictured below (provided the more recent bails are a similar diameter, and fit around the wider MGX toebox) ... but that seems pretty risky to me.

AAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! Crap! Actually the bindings that you have in your picture are the exact binding I have. Why I'm so pissed is that I broke the plastic piece while trying to close the bail. The first too attempts seemed too loose and I could pull the boot out of the binding by hand. Now I guess I'm up a creek without a paddle.:mad::mad:

[BlueB]

Better by hand then explosion while carving, no?

[bobdea]

you have those bindings????

be careful if you find replacement parts, those bindings tend to fail explosively.

the MGX, find another boot asap but for now they will do, should work with most bindings. not sure about them not working with newer burton bindings other than the stepin models, even the ones that did not require heels like the stepin performance.

really though, just about any binding that comes to mind is less likely to blow up. I do have one single binding I'd part with for 25USD shipped. burton performance. kept it around in case of a binding failure but I have 3 complete sets now. this one is one of the more modern style.

[queequeg]

you have those bindings????

be careful if you find replacement parts, those bindings tend to fail explosively.

the MGX, find another boot asap but for now they will do, should work with most bindings. not sure about them not working with newer burton bindings other than the stepin models, even the ones that did not require heels like the stepin performance.

really though, just about any binding that comes to mind is less likely to blow up. I do have one single binding I'd part with for 25USD shipped. burton performance. kept it around in case of a binding failure but I have 3 complete sets now. this one is one of the more modern style.

I could also mail you the part that you are looking for from my old bindings (I'm never using them again), but like Bob said, these' aren't exactly the safest bindings in the world ... and now that the plastics have aged, they are probably even less reliable - your safest bet is to find an alternative. If bob's bindings are stepins, I would DEFINITELY take him up on the offer.

I seem to recall a thread on here where somebody was trying to use a pair of MGX boots with a pair of TD1's and the bail was too narrow to fit the boot (boot was rubbing against the bails at the toe prematurely to total closure). I couldn't find the thread, but it was either an old MGX boot or something weird like a pair of old ski boots - I don't recall. Either way, I would double-check compatibility before getting a new pair of bindings for these, but I can guarantee they will work with a pair of step-in carriers or step-in performance. They should also work with the stepin rat-trap bindings (I think).

If there is a problem with the manual bail bindings that burton came out with later on (I'm not 100% on this) my recollection is that it was with the toe-bail-lever not being able to close down correctly over the higher profile toe shape on the boot. Newer boots have more rounded toe areas, whereas the old MGX boot has a larger, square toe.

http://www.alpinecarving.com/boot_models.html

"Burton MGX (MegaFlex), This model cam either with 3-buckle+strap, or 3-buckle with no strap. Very old, and not compatible with most plate bindings. Some very old Burton MGX boots had only 2 buckles."

Otherwise your best bet may be to have me send you the old toe bail pieces, and work with these while shopping for a newer boot/binding combo (probably not what you wanted to hear--sorry). But I would be careful - as the binding has already demonstrated to you, these things break, and you *definitely* do not want that happening on the mountain. If you are a heavy guy, I might just avoid them altogether ...

[photodad2001]

I could also mail you the part that you are looking for from my old bindings (I'm never using them again), but like Bob said, these' aren't exactly the safest bindings in the world ... and now that the plastics have aged, they are probably even less reliable - your safest bet is to find an alternative. If bob's bindings are stepins, I would DEFINITELY take him up on the offer.

I seem to recall a thread on here where somebody was trying to use a pair of MGX boots with a pair of TD1's and the bail was too narrow to fit the boot (boot was rubbing against the bails at the toe prematurely to total closure). I couldn't find the thread, but it was either an old MGX boot or something weird like a pair of old ski boots - I don't recall. Either way, I would double-check compatibility before getting a new pair of bindings for these, but I can guarantee they will work with a pair of step-in carriers or step-in performance. They should also work with the stepin rat-trap bindings (I think).

If there is a problem with the manual bail bindings that burton came out with later on (I'm not 100% on this) my recollection is that it was with the toe-bail-lever not being able to close down correctly over the higher profile toe shape on the boot. Newer boots have more rounded toe areas, whereas the old MGX boot has a larger, square toe.

Otherwise your best bet may be to have me send you the old toe bail pieces, and work with these while shopping for a newer boot/binding combo (probably not what you wanted to hear--sorry). But I would be careful - as the binding has already demonstrated to you, these things break, and you *definitely* do not want that happening on the mountain. If you are a heavy guy, I might just avoid them altogether ...

I think I remember something like that too. I think someone also posted that they filed or shaved the toe of the boot to make it fit. Oh well, it looks like I'm going to have to sell them on E-bay and find a better outfit. The boots are in practically new condition too and fit like a glove.

[carvedog]

Seems like I rode the MGX with reg burton plates.

Might have taken the screw out completely so it laid down more.

It was hard to get the bail over center ( not extremely though) and then would loosen a bit as the lever laid down. It was harder to get undone, but I would just slide my a glove finger ( finger removed ) under the flap and pop it up.

This is from memory of 12 years ago or so YMMV.

No releases and I am not small. I actually really liked the setup a lot and rode it with custom liners until I wore out the plastic where the bail rides on the heels and some on the toes.

[bjvircks]

No... not the Seinfeld/Costanza 'shrinkage' but rather boots shrinking in length when they get cold.

I had problems with getting my TD2 toe bail clamp set up for both warm conditions and cold. We were having very wide temperature extremes and when I set up for cold temps I couldn't get the clamp closed during warm weather. I ended up setting for warm conditions and put a thin gage bungie cord band on my boot around the instep. After pushing the toe clamp closed I'd lift the bungie over the clamp handle, which would do a very good job of assuring that the clamp would not pop open. By doing this I got light closing force and good hold from the binding but didn't have to depend on the clamp's over-center mechanism and boot toe deformation to hold it closed.

[SWriverstone]

For what it's worth...I have a pair of F2 Carve RS bindings. I've used them for 4 seasons now, in a huge range of conditions without readjusting, and I'm 220lbs.

My bails close one-handed with only a bit of effort (e.g. just a bit harder than "easy"). My boots are rock-solid and I've never had a problem at that tension.

Scott

[bjvircks]

SW... 'I've used them for 4 seasons now, in a huge range of conditions without readjusting, and I'm 220lbs.'

Scott, this makes sense when the bails and clamp are not as robust and stiff as the TD2. More flex can occur in the bails allowing easier closing. To some extent... every element in the boot/binding system acts as a spring of some sort. The TD2 bails have a very high spring rate. I've got 2 sets of Burton Race plates which I don't have to mess with.The Burton plate's bails (and everything else) have much more flex, the result of a much lower spring rate. (spring rate is ratio of force needed to achive a give amount of deflection) Anyway... All Is Good !

[xy9ine]

I think I remember something like that too. I think someone also posted that they filed or shaved the toe of the boot to make it fit. Oh well, it looks like I'm going to have to sell them on E-bay and find a better outfit. The boots are in practically new condition too and fit like a glove.

that was me. i'm using mgx's with td3's. there was interference between the boot sides & toe bail that didn't allow the boot to seat on the plate completely. i trimmed a couple mm's from the boot & they've been perfect. since the boots were dirt cheap i'd try modding them.