big canuck Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 got a new (to me) board and when I was installing the bindings an insert spun. Is this repairable? Thx. K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 got a new (to me) board and when I was installing the bindings an insert spun. Is this repairable? Thx.K youll probably have to do it through the base:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Change your stance :p In all seriousness, that's a real bummer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durace Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 This is a late comment, A friend who owned a shop years ago suggested to run a bottom tap in the inserts before you mount bindings. I did the same thing with a new Winterstick 15 years ago and then he told me that. He chased the threads on every board they got in for rentals, thats a lot of threads. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paappraiser Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 check tognartoolworks http://tognar.com/binding_tools_boot_canting_glue_ski_snowboard.html You can fix most anything with enough money.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 damn, I hope that's not the F3 I have done that on a few old boards - only thing you can do is change your mounting points to avoid that insert or you drill it out and t-nut through the board...then put a p-tex patch over the bottom of the t-nut. First thing I'd do is ask Bruce or Sean - they may have some tricks that us mere mortals don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 You can try to drill some small holes around the perimeter of the insert, from the top down. Not through the ptex of course. Inject some epoxy into the holes and let it dry. Might just work. Used to do that on our race cars when we'd have a loose hard point in the carbon. Worked well for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotbeans Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Wow. That's a great idea! Maybe apply vacuum at an opposite hole to facilitate expoxy migration around the insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boarder_Ted Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Marty is on the right track but may I suggest running a steel pin in the hole you make. I've done this repair on 2 boards now and it seems to be holding up fine. Like he said, drill a couple of holes from the top, just to the side if the insert, going down through the base of the insert (but NOT the base of the board!) and put in an appropriate sized pin. Epoxy it in place with a good, quality epoxy. Make sure you get plenty in there. You can tape the top of the board to make cleanup easier and to eliminate getting epoxy in the insert. It works...go slowly and take your time. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Sorry to hear about the problem. When I was building model airplanes, I used to use a syringe to inject epoxy into small holes. After mixing the epoxy, or maybe before, I can't remember, I'd heat it up in a cup held in some really hot water. It made the epoxy runny enough to easily shoot through the syringe. I bet you could drill the holes slightly larger than a syringe, then stick the syringe in the hole all the way to the end and shoot it in that way, so there wouldn't be air pockets or missed areas. Or maybe have the holes the same size as the syringe and shoot it in one hole until it comes out of the others. I'd use slow-curing epoxy since the heat will speed up the drying time. The steel pin sounds like a great idea. I always chase the inserts with taps in new boards now after getting TWO brand-new Renntigers with thread problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Can anyone post a picture of an insert so I can see what I'm trying to pin/epoxy. I have a Madd 170 with a spun insert that I'd like t fix. If I know what I'm trying to hit maybe I'll have to drill fewer holes in the carbon butterfly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Can anyone post a picture of an insert so I can see what I'm trying to pin/epoxy. I have a Madd 170 with a spun insert that I'd like t fix. If I know what I'm trying to hit maybe I'll have to drill fewer holes in the carbon butterfly. Just go here: http://www.donek.com/tech2.htm#metal you can view an insert in the laminate stack photo. The diameter of the base of the insert is typically 3/4in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted December 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I sent you an email. Is this something that can be fixed? Thanks for your TIME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Just run with 3 screws:eek: Didnt Burton run on 3?? I have used boards on 3 screws for days without an Issue. Ride it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeronaut Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Sorry to hear about the problem. When I was building model airplanes, I used to use a syringe to inject epoxy into small holes. There have been a lot of good suggestions. I'd add one more. Whatever you do to repair this, once it's working, don't crank down on that screw anymore. When you tighten your bindings on, tighten the other three, and then just tighten the broken one a little bit. Screwing down each screw compresses the soft material between the hard plate. Do this compression work with the other three good holes, and then take up the slack with the (formerly) broken one. It doesn't take a lot of screw thread to hold everything together. Indivudual 1/4-20 and/or 6 mm screws are typically rated to take about a half ton or so of weight. No point in overtorquing the one that broke. Regards, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Thanks to Sean & Noschool for the help. Happy New Year:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 helicoils not really suggested, some people were using them to mount ski plates and hangles but there's a reason people do it other ways now. heli coils are better used on skis and even then Tnutting is a better option if you can get in there without major surgery if you do helicoil, get a old board to practice on first. real easy to screw up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 There have been a lot of good suggestions. I'd add one more. Whatever you do to repair this, once it's working, don't crank down on that screw anymore. When you tighten your bindings on, tighten the other three, and then just tighten the broken one a little bit.Regards, Martin Sounds like riding on 3:freak3: I would never cut a hole in the base of my board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Lets us know what you decide to do. I'd be interested to hear what your solution is and what worked, for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madlibs69 Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Chris, what year Madd is it? Pm me. Ive replaced many brass Madd inserts on the older boards with non brass inserts. Easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeronaut Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Sounds like riding on 3 .... No, that's not what I'm saying at all. Normally, when we tighten down a binding, we alternate A, D, B, C (or whatever,) tightening each one down in a sequence, and finding the the one we did least recently is loose, because of the pressure that the others have taken off of the earlier one. What I'm suggesting is that you tighten them all, but tighten the bad (repaired) one last in the sequence, and don't clamp it all the way down until the very last pass. That way it will never see a load higher than the other inserts, and only at the very end will it catch up to them. This will decrease the chance that you'll redamage it, and will be riding on 4, well, because you are. Just don't overtighten it in the early stages to take the load off the other 3 screws - use the other three to do that, and just take up the slack with the repaired one. Regards, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Chris, what year Madd is it? Pm me. Ive replaced many brass Madd inserts on the older boards with non brass inserts. Easy to do. Can't pm you? Not exactly sure of the boards age. 3-4 years I think. It's the one with the yellow/green sidewalls. The inserts are not brass tho' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big canuck Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 So the insert isnt spinning, the threads are stripped apparently on the one brass insert. Heli coil? Suggestions? Thanks in advance. K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 So the insert isnt spinning, the threads are stripped apparently on the one brass insert. Heli coil? Suggestions? Thanks in advance.K either tap it with a bigger thread or a new insert put in a new insert. neither are that big of deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 If the insert is solid, but stripped, a helicoil might be the best solution. I don't think I would trust a helicoil threaded into the core of the board, but into the insert it would be just like a good insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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