madlibs69

As Bordy had stated, shin bang is primarily caused by the boot. Make sure that the boot cuff area around the shin and calves is evenly buckled and that there is no empty space between the liner and your shins. Go see an experienced boot fitter and have them assess the problem with the fit. Stance widths will vary greatly as many variables can affect the selected width other than just inseam length alone. Your choice of heel/toe lift, boot flex, and binding angles will all play part in the stance width.

Good link Buggs...found some season prep exercises http://www.snowboardsecrets.com/shapevid<wbr>.htm

Lili, welcome to a new world. Go see Steph up at Stratton. She will give you sound advice. (She rides better than most of the guys on this forum).

Haha way to go Skippy! I have a new contact number. Where is CH Rob?

23 is huge

LMAO. You do.

I have to agree with you Bordy! Ha...what makes this funny is that I'll still school those on metal boards using my "old" wood board and make them wonder what's wrong with their expensive metal board.....

The major contributor to you problem is the narrow stance. As mentioned, being too narrow will without question allow the knees to run into each other preventing you from getting lower. A narrow stance will also make it more difficult to equally pressure the edges along the entire length of the board. Jack nailed it pretty good with his response...the use of toe or heel lift will dictate how wide or narrow you stance will be. The stiffness of your boots will also have a part of this. Bindings set flat will generally use a narrower stance...add heel or toe lift and it will be more comfortable to widen the stance. At 5'10" not knowing your inseam, try to get up to a stance width of at least 19", pref. 19 1/2 or 19 3/4. Use rear heel lift close to max and for the front use little or no toe lift. Avoid canting unless needed. Set your rear boot forward lean almost maxed and ride your front boot forward lean in the free flex position. Spot your heel side turn coming off the toeside transition and dont forget to square the hips.

Burton Elite 150 Burton Cruise 165 Burton Air (Teal/aqua colored one) PJ 6 Burton Amp Rossi Throttle (red Shannon Melhuse model) Rossi Throttle (the white capped one or maybe it had a capwich) Wild Duck Freecarve Oxygen 172 Madd 158 5 originals madd 158 one from first reproduction of new material styles Madd 170 original madd 180 Prior 4 wheel drive Prior wcr Donek 175 Donek 186 Donek 210 Donek 228 and Im sure a bunch more in between.

Chris, what year Madd is it? Pm me. Ive replaced many brass Madd inserts on the older boards with non brass inserts. Easy to do.

If you are tipping over you may be too stiff and upright during the turn. Try getting lower allowing the ankles and knees to bring you there...not by bending. Also square you hips up to the board along with squaring the shoulders. Don't drop that inside shoulder. Sight your heelside turn while exiting/transitioning off of your toeside turn..that should be your first step to heelside execution and many fail this step. Work on the fore/aft timing of weight distribution throughout the arc of the turn. Simple incorrect timing and tight hamstring/quads can also effect a heelside turn. -See Um See

It is very important. Look at the Madds to say the least. The butter fly carbon fiber shape allows the board to have more or less torsional rigidity in select locations---less torsional stifness(more twist) in the nose and tails with more torsional stiffness(less twist) in between the bindings.. It is almost saying that the board has a dual flex pattern--torsionally and down the length. If any of you have taken lesons from PSR, you mayhave noted one simple technique he would occasionally throw out of his quiver of tricks. On a toe side turn, a rider could simply kick out the rear knee into the turn. This would add a twist to the board and immediatley make the board turn tighter. PS- Extreme carving is gay.

Thanks..

<img src="http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2614/burtongw4.jpg"> I can't even remember when I bought this bag. It is in very good condition. I have fit a 170cm length board in this bag as the straps are adjustable. It is not padded. Sory about the poor quality pics...the color is a fuschia and has a dog logo. I think that I bought this bag in the early 90s. Too many boards and bags later to rememberBest offer...no low balling please. Thanks. Feel free to email me with any questions. Email me at vastflames@gmail.com

Only file the base edge after a grind. Stoning to debur the base edge is fine. Black dmts will have potential to change the bevel so use a guide. Stay away from cheap bevel guides. SVST all the way. Use lazer cut files. And def. trim down the sidewall!

Yes different boards..the 93 pj5 was a blk/grey and the pj6 had bluish/blk with a sorta brown in part of the tail. I remember them plates..had a bunch of them...would break the 1/4" frame off on both sides at the heel. I also remember using the little block wedges, stacking them for toe/heel lift. I can get them specs...just need a few days to go though some old catologues. If you cant wait, PSR will have them..hit him up on freecarve.

PJ 5.6 overall length 155cm Running length toe-132 heel -133 nose length 170 tail length 50 nose radius 300 tail radius 250 nose width 271 waist width 223 tail width 279 sidecut depth 27/25 sidecut radius 8.3m/8.8m sidecut offset tip 50 tail 70 rotated aymetric quadratic sidecut camber height 12 weight (kg)3.3 sintered 2000 ptex base phenolic sidewalls aluminum nose protection good for riders over 140lbs I have specs for the 6.3 as well and the m series for that year....tired of typing though. Do u need the 6.3 specs too?

The amount of base bevel will determine how much the board will be allowed to transition from edge to edge before the edge actually engages into the snow surface. Here is an example..downhill racers will have a good degree of base bevel, often at least 1.5 degrees plus. This will allow the ski to roll higher or become more perpendicular to the snow surface before it truly engages. As the disclipline gets to the point where turns become closer and tighter , happening more often, the desired base bevel becomes smaller. many slalom racers who are making turns within close proximity will use base bevels of .5 or .7. Most will not notice the difference between a .5, .7 or even a one degree base bevel. Its accuracy can be noticed when the surfaces are ice, any thing short of that it becomes hard to tell. All boards or i should say most that come off of a gring will have some degree of base bevel...reason being is that if the operator knows what he is doing, will put some in so the edges dont wreck havoc on the stone. Accurate bevelsare then put in after the grind.