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Boarder_Ted last won the day on September 18 2015

Boarder_Ted had the most liked content!

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About Boarder_Ted

  • Rank
    Carver Extraordinaire

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  • Location
    Windham, Me
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Sunday River
  • Occupation?
    Technical Director
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Morrow Rocket 167, Palmer Honeycomb 160, Prior WCR Metal 177, Prior MFR 162, Coiler AMT 173, Nidecker Ultralight 163, Prior AMF 160
  • Current Boots Used?
    Deeluxe Track 700 with Thermoflex, Burton Driver X
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Gnu Mutant 24 degrees front, 12 degrees back, Bomber TD3's Step ins, 60 degrees front, 57 degrees back, toe lift on front, heel lift on rear.
  • Snowboarding since
  • Hardbooting since

Recent Profile Visitors

436 profile views
  1. West System G-Flex. I used it on a Nidecker Ultralight 5 years ago and it has been fine. I popped the sidewall out like yours and delaminated the topsheet as well. Clean it up with acetone, let it dry thoroughly, clamp it up and leave it for 24 hours. Tape off anything you don't want the epoxy to adhere to.
  2. I think the Prior is an excellent choice. I currently ride a 177 WCRM and it is perfect for my riding style. I have tried VSR boards from both of the other North American manufacturers and neither rides the way I want it to. The Prior does. I simply find that the Prior finishes a turn in a predictable manner. I also have their MFR wide and I can carve that thing all day long. There's nothing wrong with Prior so don't be bullied into a board that you don't feel will work for you.
  3. Um, see the link that I posted.
  4. SOLD SOLD SOLD I've decided I am simply not riding this board enough to justify keeping it. Classic Coiler All Mountain with Titanal. The listing I got it from is The condition is pretty much the same as I received it. I can touch up the edges and give it a fresh wax job if the buyer is interested. Any questions, shoot 'em my way. $300 plus shipping from Maine
  5. Prior MFR. Less expensive than a Custom and far better. You can get a custom built board for $485. If your friend wants something turnier/more playful, the AMF still carves well and is a fun little board.
  6. I'm sorry but with a progressive radius sidecut, ridden in a "neutral" position, the tail is never going to follow the nose. It can't because the sidecut radius is different. You can try to compensate but weight shifting or moving the bindings around (this sounds like what you're trying to do) but you are dealing with multiple radii.
  7. Good Lord, not for probably 20 years.
  8. OK, then to be more specific, I would be interested in trying a FC 177 in metal, medium flex. I wasn't too specific in my request earlier because I had assumed you would be sending out a couple general, all around boards for people to get an idea of how your product rode. I was not expecting to be able to pick an exact model in my preferred stiffness and construction. Also, when I said the boards looked narrow, I was not comparing them to a wide boardercross or freestyle board. I was comparing them to other, current freeride or race boards. A 16 cm waist is darn narrow for a modern board. I don't think I have anything in my quiver under 19.5.
  9. Yup, I noticed the other day that the main page was gone. Forums seem to be holding steady....for now.
  10. I'd be interested in trying a FC 177. It's one of the only wider boards you offer without it being a "wide". Very narrow boards you have there, Alexey. Especially for freeriding.
  11. Thermo. It means it has a heat moldable liner.
  12. Bryan, do those fit a 5x8 hole pattern? As far as I know, Morrow was the only one using that particular configuration. Maybe others but I don't know of any.
  13. Boris, I think he intends to drill through the donor board (the "plate") and screw it to the deck that has the old Morrow (I assume) hole pattern. The new riser has the 4x4 already in it. I think it should hold fine with a good washer under the screws. Granted, a wood core would be better.
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