Guest PH-Racer Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 One week old Prior WCR Metal 163. Lift line bump and piece of Titanol chipped off and bent upwards like a tin can. What type of epoxy would you use if I can get the metal to lay down properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkey Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Bad night at practice..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Bad news - you actually hardly can glue it bach... When exposed to air alunminum instantly gets an oxydised layer which prevents from proper bonding. Your best bet would be talking to Chris Prior himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR. JOHN DEERE ! Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 mighty putty! aka pissa putty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 That stuff might actually work, check your local auto store:biggthump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I'm thinking tap it down gently to get the metal flat, then a little JB Weld along the edge should keep it from coming up again. At least it's not along the working edge of the board. A metal 163? I guess that was a custom order, huh? How do you like it? I'm considering having a 169 metal built for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pebu Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I would say take it to Chris also. A metal board doesn't really seem like something you'd want to mess with yourself. I'm not sure if there is a such thing as aluminum JB weld. If there is you'll have a hard time getting it to stick to the layers below, as jb weld only really welds to the metal. You'd need a good mechanical bond underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I used to use Nails..then bend them over with a hammer.. but now I us MS spec rivits along the edge of the board about one every inch.. works good I haven't had any top sheet come up on my prior.. Rivit the nose.. probabley would look like an airplane.. use lots and lots of rivits.. Silly Said Shred.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Ong Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Had something similar happen to mine, tried different epoxies to no avail. Ended up sending it back and they fixed me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I can vouch for Boris's statement that epoxy won't hold it down effectively. The same thing happened to my Titanal Oxygen Proton this winter- it wasn't as bad as yours (only in the tip of the nose for about a 1mm by 4mm chunk), but neither epoxy or JB weld could hold it down. In the end I scored the sliver off and sealed the gap with JB weld to keep the core stable- sigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 JB Weld is the shiz. I use it on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkey Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Spoke to Dean at Prior. He said that the metal is treated with a chemical intended to allow a standar 2 part epoxy to work, stressing the need for heat. So the course of action suggested was: 1) try to bend the metal back down with needle nose pliers to make it lay flat. Then use epoxy like I would on a laminate snowboard. 2) if the metal will not stay flat, cut back the metal until I get to metal that will lay flat.....then epoxy 3) cover the open area with tape or stickers to help keep out the moisture on the exposed part of the board 4) return to Prior if all esle fails and they will cut out a section of metal and splice in a new one Our issue is that there are races between now and early April for which the board is needed.....we can not send the board back until then. We have been paying attention at all of the races that we attend and we only see the Prior boards chipping in this way. My son's WCR 173 metal did the same thing.....there are chips where the metal has broken off all over the board......but never lifted up like this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkey Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Yes - a custom WCR Metal 163 made for SL races. The board might be a little damp for most in tight SL courses, but perfect for my son who weighs 135 pounds at 6'1" tall. He really likes it....just tired of the topsheet issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Spoke to Dean at Prior. He said that the metal is treated with a chemical intended to allow a standar 2 part epoxy to work, stressing the need for heat. It's true. Aluminum gets phosphoric anodised and that layer can bond to epoxy. Even that layer can not stay exposed to air indefinitelly without changing. Now, keep in mind that layer is only few microns thic. Odds are that it came of the aluminum and its stuck the old epoxy. Good luck with repairs. George, bummer about your T-Proton... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I believe the proper adheshive is a natural glue made from a specially formulated recipe containing the pulverized bones, blood and what little cranial neural tissue you can recover from the offending gaper you encountered in the lift line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 May I suggest some Hysol. It's incredible when done properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 I used to use Nails..then bend them over with a hammer.. but now I us MS spec rivits along the edge of the board about one every inch.. works good I haven't had any top sheet come up on my prior..Rivit the nose.. probabley would look like an airplane.. use lots and lots of rivits.. Silly Said Shred.. I used to have an old Look overspeed that hit a tree with its nose .The previous owner cut an aluminum plate to keep the tip from cracking more. He riveted it to the nose of the board. It looked like frankenstein but it sure did the job. I would say get some rivets and put some protectors on the tip and tail just like the awesome rental boards. As for bonding Metal to fiberglass, has anyone tried bondo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapor Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 I think your best bet is to cut away the damaged section to prevent it from peeling away more for the rest of the race season then have prior splice in a section. If it was flat i would say go for it but being that its curled up like that it will be next to impossible to get it to lay flat and will be a weak spot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Hey Matt, That looks like quite a bump! It actually even dented the top of the steel rail and the sidewall material. I got this lift line ding last season in my well ridden 183 Prior. You can see the track in the titanal the person's rail left from running over my board. I just cut out the torn metal and filed down the edges. It has been completely stable for a solid 20+ days on the snow. I expect that if you do cut out the loose metal and file it down, your son can easily finish the race season. Due to the location, it does not seem like the damage would affect the ride or that you would need to splice in a metal patch (Prior would know better than me though). Duct tape over the damage if you think that water might cause additional problems before you can get it epoxied. Take care, Buell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Don't use JB weld the other surface is carbon fiber. I have fixed a bunch of bend and peel metal issues with expoy. And the have held fine! Just call Chris and sent him a picture and see what he says. Do what Chris says not what anyone on this forum says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arc2Arc Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 i have had good luck with a marine epoxy still a two part but it has held for three years for me with about 50-60 days on it. I applied liberally clamped it over night with a couple shims and c clamps pulled everything apart the next morning and did some light shapping of the area with a sharp blade and a millbastard file. the repair has a white color but it was better than the alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkey Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 We have bent the metal back such that it is laying within about 1mm off the board surface. Still bent, but reasonable now. I have also filed (dremel) any obvious sharp areas. I am going to use epoxy as if it were a standard laminate board surface. If the bent metal still wants to come up, I'll then cut out that portion back to the point that it lays flat, use epoxy, then file. So two questions: - how best do we cut the metal? - what, if anything, would you do about the open area? If this doesn't work well we certainly will send back to Chris after the season. Thanks again Matt www.thegteam.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 Spoke to Dean at Prior. He said that the metal is treated with a chemical intended to allow a standar 2 part epoxy to work, stressing the need for heat. So the course of action suggested was:1) try to bend the metal back down with needle nose pliers to make it lay flat. Then use epoxy like I would on a laminate snowboard. 2) if the metal will not stay flat, cut back the metal until I get to metal that will lay flat.....then epoxy 3) cover the open area with tape or stickers to help keep out the moisture on the exposed part of the board 4) return to Prior if all esle fails and they will cut out a section of metal and splice in a new one Our issue is that there are races between now and early April for which the board is needed.....we can not send the board back until then. We have been paying attention at all of the races that we attend and we only see the Prior boards chipping in this way. My son's WCR 173 metal did the same thing.....there are chips where the metal has broken off all over the board......but never lifted up like this before. Sorry I missed this post while skimming the reponses in disbelif. Dean nailed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 We have bent the metal back such that it is laying within about 1mm off the board surface. Still bent, but reasonable now. I have also filed (dremel) any obvious sharp areas. I am going to use epoxy as if it were a standard laminate board surface. If the bent metal still wants to come up, I'll then cut out that portion back to the point that it lays flat, use epoxy, then file. So two questions: - how best do we cut the metal? - what, if anything, would you do about the open area? If this doesn't work well we certainly will send back to Chris after the season. Thanks again Matt www.thegteam.net When I have cut and patched metal in the past I used a dremal cut off wheel. The open area can just be sealed with epoxy. If no patch is available. (Like we all have hunks of titanal around) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 for yourself; I have hunks of Titanal sitting around.Bola http://www.allboardssports.com 1-303-415-1600 So do I In several thicknesses but I didn't want to rub it in to the poor guy. I wouldn't listen to me either and I know me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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