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Coiler


chinchillaman

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I'm in the market for a new GS board. I have tried Prior's Metal board but I do not believe it is the board for me. My buddy tells me that coilers with the super construction make amazing boards. Can anyone help me with this decion or give me some information on coiler. Thanks

Here's a link to Bruce's website with the list of product... Linky

They are custom order only - but worth the wait - they are awesome. Check out the Pure Race GS or Super G boards...

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I am a Coiler fanatic but the prior just stole the show until I get my hands on a metal Coiler that I bet will feel similar to the prior

after riding a metal board superboard coilers feel like a standard construction board, metal rides are damp grippy rides, bad ass

I have only been on the prior but the more I ride it the more I realize it's doing for me

cross some icey deep ruts at top speed and and you will know what I mean, today I did just that and had I of been on most other boards something probably would of broke, be it me or gear something would have been trashed but these things just eat up gnarly ass ruts

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too answer ypur question a little better coilers are great and if you have special needs Bruce is probably the the best, certainly has done a great job getting it right with my stuff

I gotta say it again though, I am totally sold on metal

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Don't know if this will help, but I rode a borrowed Coiler(I believe a 182) for two days at Bachelor this past weekend.It was designed for a rider that weighs 45 lbs more than I do and yet rewarded my aggressive input so well that I am buying it. I ride a tight little mountain with narrow runs,a couple of which are a lttle steeper than what I experienced at Bachelor and I believe I will be able to turn it in the same tight spaces I usually do with my 161 all mountain board.It has a rounder tail however than the GS board and is probably not as stiff,but my point is I think they make a killer product.

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A Kessler is not going to cost much, if any, more than a metal coiler. The one benefit of going with Bruce is that he speaks english well so you can voice your needs more clearly. Kessler speak english OK, but it's hard to convay exactly what you want. No matter what level you are at if you plan on putting a board in a race course you are handicapped by a conventionally built board.

Just out of curosity what bindings were you riding on your Priors? Where did they snap? Look into get some derby plates for your next GS board. Not only do they add a performance advantage, but they tend to add to the life span of metal boards.

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[...]Maybee I was using the wrong bindings, but Prior should tell you not to use them if it breaks thier product.

They do, although they changed their phrasing a little this year though (they added the "rubber gaskets" part).

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exact price but if I remember correctly it is about 900 canadian or so when it's all said and done or was it 900 US? either way it's close to the price on the prior

There has been a hold up with metal coilers though, for more info contact Bruce but I'd not expect one by the end of this season unless it's the Chilean season you're talking about.

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put a sheet of lexan under your cateks if you insist on using cateks, with your bombers use the suspension kit

someone at Prior told me both of those tidbits, you just gotta ask I guess

also, use the D3s under your cateks.

three people very much in the know have reccomended not using cateks when directly mounted to the board, they wreck both coilers and priors

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Hey SEJ,

Is it a Metal, or a regular WCR? If it is the Metal, Bordy recommended that we use .220 thickness plexiglass under our bindings. The length of each plate is 12", and the width is determined by the board width. You will need to round the bottom edges of the plate with a sander to keep it from etching into the topsheet when you decamber the board. You will also need longer screws to mount your bindings. The plate is meant to diffuse any point loading by metal bindings on the aluminum topsheet.

I was riding with the suspension kit under my TD2s instead, though I will try the plexiglass again next season. I would definitely not use OS1s on a Metal board. Softer bindings like F2s are supposed to be the safest.

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I'm not sure about this, but I wouldn't trust plexiglas. Lexan (polycarbonate) is not the same as Plexiglas (acrylic). Lexan is softer and more resilient and Plexiglas is harder and breaks easily (and is harder to work with). Lexan costs much more than Plexiglas though...

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Buell, My board is not metal, probably 02 or 03. As far as names for the plastic I believe plexiglas is poly carbonate, the same as lexan, etc. It was the wave for boat windshields when I was young. This is a VERY tough plastic. It's malleable to a point, but tough. (Think stainlesss steel only plastic. Tough but not hard.)Acrylic is brittle as hell. It will shatter when you drop it. Polycarb is what they make safety glasses out of.

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