bschurman

If you use a little mouth wash and water once or twice a season it'll clean out the microbes and it won't leave a foul after taste like soap, vinegar or bleach can. I don't know about the little tablets that Camelbak sells but the real enemy is moisture. If you keep it dry nothing is going to grow in there. ->Ben

I have a pair of 28's with Thermo liners (molded once) with superfeet insoles and Intec Heels and the three strap booster strap. About 10 days on them total and I am willing to ship them to Australia. I am looking for $250 US + shipping. Here are some pictures for you: http://www.bogeydog.net/pics/album05 Let me know if you are interested. Thanks, ->Ben

Happy Birthday Bob!

A track bike is an afforable want. This is a great option and you can get them to put a front brake on it for street use. http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bianchi04/pistase.html Once you get a fixed gear and get out on it you'll love it. ->Ben

Thanks for the interest.

I have a new, unused RAB for sale. $39.95 shipped. Please email me at ben -at- bogeydog.net if you are interested. Thanks, ->Ben

Are you sure that the inserts are stripped or just cross threaded? You can try to put an M6 bottoming tap down there and clean them out and see if that holds you. You need at least 4 full turns of engagement to be safe. Also make sure that the threads a good in there too. If they are stripped then you can get them retapped to SAE 1/4" but the heads on 1/4" bolts are not 90* and shouldn't be used in Catek and TD bindings since the center disks are machined for 90* bolt heads. A quick look on McMaster shows that 1/4" bolts are 82* and M6 are 90* so this would not be the way to go. You can also tap them out bigger and put a helicoil insert in them to make them M6 again. That would be as strong as new but I have never done this and I am not sure how much it would cost and where to get this done. I guess I haven't really helped you out much other then to point out your options. I would try option 1 and then move on to 3. But please be sure that the threads a good before you ride it since I wouldn't want you to get hurt if you ripped out the binding. Option 3 if you can get it done by someone would be as stronger fix. ->Ben

Ray, I wouldn't trust Geoff with that Virus. Ever since the SES he won't stop talking about those things. I wouldn't worry about drool ;-)

Mike, I think that Mike is doing a summer special where the return shipping is free. I am not sure when this is starting but you can ask Mike on the phone about it. The contact information is: http://www.summitskishop.com/ptc.php?page=PTC Precision Tuning Center 1000 Worcester Rd Framingham, MA 01702 Phone: (508) 875-5551 You want to speak with the master himself, Mike de Santis. He is usually easier to find in the morning. You will NOT be disappointed. ->Ben

I would suggest you get the smaller size. The liners will pack out and then they will not fit as well. I am not sure about head boots but on Deeluxe the 28 and 28.5 shell are the same size and it's just the liner that is different. If that is the case and you get a Termo liner for the Head boots then you will fine. But that is only if your foot size is closer to 28 and not 27.5. You can call Michelle at bomber and talk to her abut boot sizing on the phone. She is great at getting you the right size and they have the Head boots on sale right here. And they will accept back returns on the boots if you find that they don't fit well. Of course only if they are unmolded and unused. ->Ben

There is a Surefoot right downtown accross the street from the Starbucks and Gondola. I would think that they could hook you up.

And they are the best boot that I have ridden. They are a little on the stiff side. Much like the AF-700. But they have a bunch of great features that I like. First, the buckles are great in that they allow you micro adjust the tension. The sole is shorter then the same size Deeluxe or Head boot which allows you to run lower angels if you so choose. And the rear spring mechanism has spring on both heel and toeside. Plus you can lock the upper cuff in any of 5 positions and get spring suspension within that range. I didn't like the stock liner but I put some Thermoflex liners in there and they are by far the most comfortable boot that I have ridden. I can buckle them in the morning and not touch them until I take them off at night. Personally, unless you are a featherweight rider I would highly recommend them. ->Ben

What you got? Let me know if you have anything and I may be interested. If you have old broken boots with usable parts I am interested too. Please email me at ben -at- bogeydog.net and let me know what you have. Thanks, ->Ben

I had those plastic lips on my 123s and you can tread a bolt in the bottom and pound them out with a hammer. The platic is not that strong so they should come out easily. Then you can just pop in the new insert and you are good to go. There should really be no need to dremmel. I'm putting a set of socket head bolts in with the tee nuts so you can replace all your bolts at the same time. ->Ben

Does anyone know a news stand in the Boston area that I can pick this up at? I won a free subscription at the SES but it does not start until the August issue and I really want to check this one out. Thanks, ->Ben

I'll send you a set of 8 M5 tee nuts if you want to replace them. The best way to get the old tee nut out is to thread the bolt into it a little way from the bootom of the boot and then pound the end of the bolt with a hammer and that should force the nut out into the boot interior. You should be fine with the M5 bolts and nuts just make sure not to cross thread and lube those bolts and you'll be fine. Send me an email at ben -at- bogeydog.net with your mailing address and I'll get you those tee nuts. Are you using Intec heels or the standard ones? ->Ben

Just another option out there that is not carried by bomber but is a great boot is UPZ. They will fit the wider foot and I love the forward lean/spring mechanism on them. They have spring on both toe and heel side with 5 locking positions in between. The buckles are great too. I don't like the liners much but get the Thermoflex in there and they are the most comfortable boot I have ever owned. The price is pretty good too at $399. All the info is here. <a href = "www.upzboots.com">www.upzboots.com</a> One more thing is that Dan Yoja is great to deal with and I am sure that fit is guaranteed too. Just one more option to consider. ->Ben

Bomber will ship them for free. Will hardbooter?

If you only have one bolt still in there you can just spin either the toe or heel block to get the stripped bolt out. Then you can get a new bolt either from Bomber or from mcmaster.com. The toe block is an M8 x 25mm and the heel bolts are M8 x 16mm. ->Ben

That's because you are the only one that made it onto a plane in Aspen! :-) Although Jeff's sport tube did look pretty good to travel with. I think it's the double ski model.

This is the bag that you are looking for. See <a href = "http://www.bomberonline.com/store/accessories/dakine_concourse.cfm">here</a> Without bindings I bet you could get 10 boards in there easily. Plenty of room for a 197cm board too. ->Ben

I actually meant that you may want to sort of round out the hole on the bottom of the disk. Like chamfer the edges of it so there is nothing sharp sticking into the board. You can get an M8 in a 14mm if you would like but I would worry that there is not enough thread engagement with that. Perhaps if the bolt is that close you could just grind the bottom a little to get to where you need to be. BTW the 14mm scews can be bought at mcmaster.com and the part number that you need is 92125A281. If you can get four full turns of engagement with them, then you are fine. ->Ben

At least I am semi social.

Dave Morgan has F2 bindings at YYZCanuck.com and I bet he'll have spare parts. You can try him too.

I doubt it's the screws that are putting marks in the topsheet. It's probably the actual hole for the screw. To verify this just assemble the top of the binding to the cant disk off the board and see how far the M8 screw comes down. If it's the hole then you should relieve the threaded portion on the bottom of the disk so it doesn't dig in. The 16mm length M8 should be the right size for all the cant disks. The 16mm on the flat head is measured from the top of the head to the bottom of the threaded section. ->Ben