Donek

We're stocking F2s. We'll be restocked tomorrow: http://www.donek.com/product-category/accessories/bindings/

Eric. We have an old kit for this. Call me in the morning.

It was probably one of he best powder days I've had.

You use full width rubber laminates with the metal. We bring in rolls that are 13in wide.

You can use dissimilar materials to impact vibration characteristics. Their interactions can have a big impact on the feel of the board.

Never Summer uses pre tensioned s glass precure laminates. Carbon has a short elastic curve to begin with. Pre tensioning it will only shorten it further and increase the likelihood of a catastrophic failure. A balanced laminate stack becomes a necessity to eliminate changes in shape with temperature variations and de molding. There are many ways of generating a damper board, but Carbon fiber is unlikely to achieve that goal. You could look at wavy fiber technology, but the patent is probably still in effect. Metal construction boards would be better described as rubber construction boards. The metal generates a certain perception of dampness, but it's the rubber laminates that do most of that work. The rubber is there because the boards will fall apart without it.

Beginning carvers don't always have perfect technique. As a result they may start one turn with their weight forward and the next turn with their weight a bit behind that. With a variable sidecut this means the board feels like it rarely makes the same turn. As a result it's difficult to obtain consistent results and you could become discouraged. I would recommend a fixed or single radius sidecut. In our line this would likely be a Proteus if you are looking at something used. We will be releasing a fiberglass fixed radius sidecut board for next season with a modern camber profile and a flex that is friendly and forgiving. This board is currently in development and we will have the last prototype on snow next week. At this point we are still pondering model names.

This is the machine we use. Probably not an entry level device though. http://www.reichmann-skiservice.com/en/tuning-machines/dts-u-pro.html The edge it produces is pretty awesome.

One of the primary problems is that SIA doesn't even understand their market in a meaningful way. They have allowed some highschool intern to dictate how they have looked the market for years without actually thinking about what they are looking at. If you continue to follow this graph, you will eternally believe that the 17 and under market is the largest. The problem is that the age groups don't tell a story. If you resegment the market in a meaningful manner, you begin to see where your marketing dollars must be spent. And it's definitely not with the 17 and under demographic.

We do have a decision to release the MK for the beginning of the 2016/2017 season. There are a couple of reasons we are waiting until then. They mostly have to do with ensuring we get everything perfect for this very unique board. The board will be available only in the dimensions it was prototyped which are very similar to the original. It will only be available with the standard graphic that we will be spending a fair bit of effort in designing and developing. At some point in the next few days we will have in place a method for you to pre-order an MK.

Traditional camber boards (no decamber/rocker/early rise) generate what I would call a pressure focal point at the rise line (transitions from camber to shovel bend) in a carved turn. This results in: drag or friction that slows the rider down a back pressure or force at the shovel of the board that becomes key in the boards carving performance the rider needing to pressure the shovel aggressively at the initiation of the turnwhen reaching for the edge of the board that is off the snow, the rider will reach towards the tip of the board a need for a stiffer shovel to prevent the board from folding in a hard carve pronounced impact at this point when crossing a rut or hitting a bump in the snow (I think Brian called this greater feedback)you'll see more vibrations in a board built this way as a result Boards incorporating well engineered (insert term of your choosing to describe a bend in the opposite direction of camber) will reduce or eliminate most of the above behaviors. You will find: a reduction in drag resulting in a board that runs dramatically faster and is less likely to slow down in a carve when reaching for the edge that is off the ground, the rider will reach for a position closer to his front foot keeping him in a more stable, static centered position on the board the board does not need to be as stiff thus reducing the effort required to carve turns dramatic reduction in board chatter resulting from rutted or rough snow conditions Why does Donek not use the term "Rocker"? Rocker is a term used by the mass producers of cookie cutter snowboards and skis. It is my belief that these manufacturers have missed the mark so dramatically on the above objectives that using the term would lump our product and my skill as an engineer in with theirs. This is the last thing I want to be associated with, so I choose to use a term that sets us apart and invites a conversation rather than a negative assumption. We offer pretty much everything from no decamber for a traditional feel to a lot of decamber in our more race oriented lines. The amount varies depending on the board being made and the riders needs. As always, I am more than happy to discuss this subject on the phone and help you determine the best board fit for your style.

I think Jim failed to mention that they are getting out on the hill every other week and running on snow demos for anyone to try hard booting. Become familiar with the demo schedule and encourage people to take advantage of those events.

We made about 100 boards for the brewery back in 1999 or 2000.

It's a possibility.

Yes. We are working with Ryan this season. With luck he'll be coming to SES (sorry Trenchin Convention) and helping promote carving to soft booters.

It depends a bit on the board. Do you know what the sidecut radius is. Most of the Oxxess BX boards are single radius shapes and a lot of the BX shapes can have very long sidecuts designed to use the berms to perform most of the turn while the sidecut will track a very straight line. If you are ordering direct from Oxxess be sure to talk with Marcel or Hines to ensure they know you intend to use it for soft boot carving, not BX.

Not quite. We did use some of Cur'ts testing results in developing it, but the MK is still being worked on. Based on the most recent feedback, we are very close to what Curt is looking to achieve. If all goes well with the latest board, we'll start playing with some CF butterflies next.

http://www.donek.com/product/f2-mounting-screws/

Sorry, just the boards we manufacture. We have everything from a 157 through a 185 available. I can also lend you an F-plate and a personal set of F2s.

The entire demo fleet just came back from Denver Sports Lab with a race ready tune. You are welcome to come by and take out what you need for the race. I'll be there in Thursday, so you could simply turn it back in after the race.

In general the center of the pattern is typically no longer offset 10mm. Most manufacturers now place it centered.

What follows is the instructions we send to new customers about setup. The most important things in a setup are comfort and flexibility. Doing a dry run on your living room carpet before your first day is going to eliminate a lot of unknowns as well as ensure your comfort right off the lift. Stance angles and setup are very personal. In general, you want your angles such that the toe and heel of your boot is near the edge of the board. Not way inside or hanging over dramatically. If you mount the boots in your bindings and place a straight edge against the board's edge and the portion of the boot overhanging that edge, you want to set your binding angles such that the straight edge produces an angle of no more than 75 deg. As you progress and get better, the angle the straight edge forms with the base of the board will increase to 85 to 90 deg depending on the snow conditions you ride and how far over you are pushing the board. I recommend doing some carpet riding in order to establish the best binding angles and stance width for you. Start with the board on the floor and wearing your boots. Stand on the board in a position that feels comfortable and allows you to remain flexible and dynamic. Measure the approximate center to center distance between your feet and eyeball an approximate value for your binding angles. Mount your bindings at that stance width and angles. There's no point in cinching them down really tight as you will likely loosen them a couple more times before you are done. Clip into your bindings and listen to what your body is telling you. You now want to make adjustments to your angles and width in order to eliminate any tension in your muscles, awkward pulling, and ensure you can easily balance. Ensure that you are also in a position that allows you to get low. By that I mean you should be able to bend your knees and ultimately touch your chest to your front knee. Once you feel comfortable and balanced, you are likely in a good starting position. You can now practice some things you will be doing on the hill. Pressure the heel edge of the board and reach for your front foot toe with your back hand. When you make a heel side carve this is the basic position that will keep you balanced Now pressure your toes and reach for your front foot heel with your front hand. When you make a toe side carve this is the basic motion that will keep you balanced. Practice standing on the board with your shoulders perpendicular to the board, knees bend and prepared for the motion in the board as it slides over the terrain. If you perform these steps before you get on snow the first time, you will find you are well prepared for your first day of carving.

very cool.

yyz is still in business. We stock most f2 binidings and parts these days.