Donek

We have a few boards left over that I'd like to get rid of. 179 FC I metalic red perfect condition (unused) $400 - sold 182 Axis clear top fiberglass wrinkle in topsheet (unused) $300 - sold 155 metalic purple incline perfect conditon (unused) $260 - sold 186 GS model 02behle186 (see specs on website) black topsheet, built in 2002, perfect condition (unused) $200 - sold call us if you have any questions.

Great customers, fun riding, just as much fun building. My job rules. Sean Martin Donek Snowboards Inc. smartin@donek.com http://www.donek.com/ phone:877-53-DONEK

It's imprtant to remember that a 20mm offsett will produce a 40mm difference between the distance from the two rise lines. This is because in moving the center back 20 mm you lengthen the front distance by 20mm and shorten the back distance by 20mm resulting in a difference of 40mm.

This is only correct if the board has no taper. Taper means the tip of the board is wider than the tail. The Freecarve series has no set back.

I'm not 100% sure about the other board builders, but usually we put the insert pattern centered over the boards center line, or offset centerline if the board has offset. This is a fairly common practice. As a result you can simply measure to the center of the hole pattern and you've got it. Otherwise just move the same distance out from the inserts closest to the centerline and you'll be centered. I try to always include a document that indicates this, but we board builders get so engrossed in all the other things that we forget that what's obvious to us isn't necessarily obvious to the rest of the world.

Can we say Lazy. Or maybe it's just I've been so busy. I just put the axis numbers together for someone last week. They aren't up on the site so I'll list them here.... No matter what I do it seems impossible to attach html files or insert the html code here, so I'll try to get it added to the web site. Sorry guys.

Bob, what you're talking about is the flex pattern of the board. It defines how the board will bend. The shape the board bends to works in conjunction with the sidecut to produce a turn. These shapes can work together to define exactly how the riders weight is distributed over the edge. Different types of flex progressions can dramatically change how the board performs. This is the real dilema in producing some sort of stiffness index that covers every manufacturers board. Two boards that produce the same center point deflection in a 3 point bending test (supported on each and and loaded in the middle) with identical sidecuts can in fact perform very differently on the snow. A very soft tip and tail will perform differently than a board that seems to have a more even flex progression. This can also be affected by the type of sidecut being used. Many companies use radial sidecuts, others use a combination of radii, while we use quadratic curves. They all produce different results. That's probably not much help, but hopefully it answers some questions.

My stiffness index is really based on a 1 to 10 scale. Some of the longer boards broke the scale though. It does work, but looking at the scale calculation, I'm realizing I must have been a bit off my rocker when I came up with it. I'll have to revisit it and correct a rather silly mistake. I'll see if I can't provide some sort of real world number in the future. Right now it's based on the stiffness at the waist, the length and then a scaling factor to get it between 1 and 10. It really should be based on the average stiffness. There won't be much difference, as the tip/tail stiffnesses at the end of the cores don't vary all that much.

This is probably the reson the board was a demo. We have had similar problems with insert alignment. 1/4 in off is a bit more than we would have accepted as well. This should not cause any problems with the board from a performance aspect. You can simply adjust the toe and heel blocks on your binding forward or backward to center your boot on the board. This can become a bit of a hastle if you move your bindings from board to board, but it's the price you pay if you buy a blem. If Prior is anything like us, most of the blems become demos or discounted.

Steve, It was a custom fabric print Dave sent to us.

Steve, I'd recommend either Racers Edge in Breck or Edgeworks in Denver. As for repairing it yourself, you'll need a 24 hour epoxy, some clamps and some rubbing alchohol. You want to thouroughly clean the area of any oils. Use the rubbing alchohol as it woun't have any negative effects on the materials in the board. Be sure to pry open the area and let it dry completely before proceding. Rubbing alchohol is usually 30% water, so this coud take a little while. Work the epoxy into the joint. Be sure all surfaces are wet before clamping everything tightly. Wipe all the excess epoxy off the board before it cures so you don't have to do a lot of clean up after. Let it sit for 24 hours before removing the clamps.

As long as the products you are shipping are made in the US or Canada, NAFTA applies. I downloaded the form off of FedEx's web site. The number in the top right corner is OMB No. 1515-0204. The only other identifying number on the form is 19 CFR 181.11, 181.22. If you fill out this form and include it with the commercial invoices, your buyer shouldn't have to pay more than their usual VAT.

I think there is a huge difference in a helicopter blade and a snowboard. While the honeycomb works very well in the helicopter blade, you would probably never agree to ride in that helicopter after the blade hade struck a rock or even a tree. If the terrain seen by a snowboard was a pristine and consistent as the air a helicopter blade sees, I would probably be using many of the more exotic materials. The problem is a snowboard strikes rocks every day it's on snow. It also sees impacts with very hard ice. This abuse is very hard on the materials. If a helicopter blade were to hit a flying bird, I have little doubt the helicopter would be grounded until the blade was replaced. A snowboards impact with a rock is just a daily occurance. If it hit a bird while on the roof of your car, it would cleaned off and put right back into use.

If you've ever done any framing or built a fence, you'll have noticed that your hammer puts a nice dent in the wood. When you return a could of days later, the dent seems to be gone. Wood is very resilient. It can handle a lot and still come back for more. Hit some of that honeycomb or foam with a hammer and it's done for. Now compare the hammer with what happens when you hit a rock. It's not that much different. I'll bet on wood every time. What a lot of other manufacturers have done with exotic materials is pretty cool. It sounds impressive and even looks cool. 99% of the time the exact same result can be achieved in a simpler way. The only problem with it is, that the marketing department doesn't have anything new to talk about. I prefer the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principal. Keeping the construction simple and focusing on the engineering, allows you to really address the most important issues at hand. I design around the problem, not some marketing departments goofy ideas. Exotic materials are great for their appropriate application, but most of the time, it's not snowboards. I design for durability and performance, and I use less exotic materials with great success.

I guess I could be considered a woodworker. I went through several thousand board feet of poplar and ash in the last year. The dissapointing thing about it is that almost 70% of it gets turned into dust/chips. I wish you injection mold wood. It would make things so much easier.

Just wanted to let people know we've updated our site for the season. The alternate languages are not ready yet, but we're working on them.