jp1

loopback, don't forget the 'Blue River Special' @ The Sunshine Cafe in Dillion / Silverthorne (and check out The Dillion Dam Brewery) right down the road from Bomber :D

Beckman AG, " As you are no doubt aware, simple mechanical devices and their workings overwhelm more than a few people." So true, unfortunately though most don't realize they are overwhelmed. I cringe and at times have to walk away watching some perform such basic mechanical tasks. Heck, I work with 'mechanics' that have no concept of TPI, fine / coarse threads (Posi-Drive / Phillips) and Metric's forget about it. Probably the same way they feel when they see me pecking away at a computer (but at least I admit to being computer illiterate). Chris, you mean them little lines on Phillips head screws mean something .......

I should know better being a Maintenance Tech by trade, as I've pretty much seen everything but............. I really don't understand how the King Pin nuts can get messed up? Being they are Stainless and ride in Aluminum, I am baffled. What seems to be the issue, are the threads stripped ? It would seem to me that they should be able to be 'cleaned up'. Either with a tap (if indeed it is a thread issue) or polishing up the Ball area if that is the issue. Tap them out, polish them up and lubricate the threads & ball area when installing them (stainless to stainless is very prone to 'pick up'). Damage to any of the Allen bolts is understandable, it is common with Flat Head & Button Head Allens. Generally from people using the wrong size Allen Keys (wrenches) & from over-torquing, but over time they do get worn and need to be replaced. More than likely over time, someone has been using Standard Allen Wrenches on the Metric Allen Bolts. Any of your buddies have a Machine Shop with a Screw Machine / Lathe ? That sucker would spit them out by the dozens in minutes ! Oh, I guarantee you, you would not have any problems getting Bomber parts ! email sent

JohnnyLo, " I am looking for complete set of screws, bolts, nuts. Whatever they are called for the Catek OS2. The ones I have are stripped." Stainless Steel screws, bolts, nuts & set screws are available from many Industrial Suppliers ( McMaster / Carr, Fastenal, MSC, Grainger, etc.) If your King Pin Nuts (the spherical nut that holds the Top Plate to the Base) are stripped, you'll probably need to find a Machine Shop to duplicate them :( unless you have the ability yourself.

SunSurfer, sounds like a plan as I don't want to clog up the NBP area anyway. I'm computer illeterate and time is scarce so it's not worth the aggrevation for me to even try, but I will see if I can get help posting some pictures when I get a chance.

Hilux, maybe try this if you haven't already. Figure out the best routing for the cable (around the back of the ankle bone works best for me). Then cut strips of Gorilla Tape (Duct Tape will work, but Gorilla Tape is the snizz) 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", etc., the length of the cable in the shell. Lay the strips alongside of the cable forming a 'ramp' or taper up to the height of the cable. Thus making a 'channel' for the cable to lie in. Then put a full width strip (or two) over top of the cable and the built up 'tapered' area to hold everything in place. I feel the key is to build the area along side of the cable to the same height (thickness) as the cable and have a smooth transition flowing to the shell.

The isolators have a metal plate on the bottom with a male (6 mm X 1) threaded stud and a metal plate on the top that is tapped (6mm X1) with rubber or silicone, (depending on the durometer) vulcanized to the plates. No metal attachment between the top and bottom plates, only rubber / silicone. Search, McMaster / Carr, vibration isolators. jp1

Not at all, as it is all true unfortunately.

Hi All. I’ve been lurking recently on a ‘Smart Phone’ from which I had no intention of even trying to respond until I could get some time on a computer. I’d like to answer some inquiries about the Gizmo’s. The original intention was to prove or dis-prove an idea that I had. After some time away from boarding, upon return ‘Titanal’ was the talk of the town. In two years, board construction had advanced (or so it seemed) to the point where I wouldn’t be able to ride my antiques. Board builders were now using Titanal and Rubber in their construction to dampen the ride, etc. Heck I thought, if a thin sheet of rubber can dampen that much imagine what I could do using rubber Isolators. Although most if not all plates at the time were (and still are) of a single plate design, I chose to go with a two plate design as I am a ‘pedaler’, and more interested in recreational riding. Thus the first set of Gizmo’s were built to either prove or dis-prove this idea. After a season of riding them on my own to prove their safety to myself (I’d never even think about asking someone else to try something I myself didn’t feel safe) I felt they were safe and did what I was hoping (Isolating the rider from negative feedback of the Ice Coast terrain, chatter, ice, etc.) so I was ready to seek others (better riders) feedback. I approached one of the best and most aggressive riders I knew at our local hill and showed him what I had, and asked if he would be interested in trying them. He liked the idea, and was more than willing to try them. A week later I seen him riding and finally caught up with him to ask his opinion. He smiled and replied, “forget it you are not getting them back” ! When I finally figured out he was serious and really liked them, I felt more confident in the concept and what I myself had felt. From then on, it has been a constant process of trying to improve the original design. Several changes have been made over the years, today I am actually testing Revision XII on my own boards. The concept is simple, rubber isolation. Much like that of a motor mount, shock absorber or sway bar bushings in an automobile. Anyone that has ever been involved with any type of race car that does not use a rubber motor mounts or shock / sway bar bushings knows what I am talking about. Maybe Ok for the track, but not so much for the street. It won’t take long before you’ll have some extensive dental bills from your teeth being rattled out of your mouth. The Isolators provide true isolation as there is no metal fastener attaching the board to the binding for the negative feedback / vibration to be transmitted through, to the rider. Cold weather effectiveness ? The isolators temperature ratings vary anywhere from -10*F to +150*F and -80*F to +300*F depending on their durometer. I personally have never noticed any change in feel from temperature and have ridden the isolators rated for -10*F in temperatures substantially less with no issues. The drawback that has kept me from attempting to market the system is the fact that while the isolators are rated for compression and shear, they are not rated for extension. I have always told everyone that has shown interest or tried the system of this fact. Obviously, when you compress one side or corner of the plate you are extending the other. To date, I have never had an isolator related problem other than one that I caught from the manufacture while doing pre-installation testing. Positives & Negatives: I have had some, what I consider to be ‘very high end riders’ try the Gizmo’s as they can provide much better feedback than I am capable of. They have even had use (although I never dreamed it) by some recreational racers. The negatives are (A) added weight (as in all plate systems) and (B) sluggish feeling edge to edge (snow feel). I have added two additional durometer isolators (firmer) for testing this season to see if they will help rectify this feeling. Most if not all feel they are great for the Recreational Rider, which is what the design was originally intended for. The positives I’ve heard are (A) extended riding time (B) less wear and tear on my knees © made my stiff old board fun to ride again. I have (2) different mounting systems. (System 1) The original system that mounts to the standard 4X4 pattern is essentially bottom split plates (to allow better board flexion than the original 1 piece solid plate) with the 4X4 hole pattern in it that mounts to the board, 4 isolators (1) in each corner are attached to the bottom plates, and a top plate which is attached to the isolators and drilled and tapped for the binding to mount to. (System 2) uses inserts installed into the board (thus eliminating the weight of the bottom plates). The Original Gizmo’s weighed over 5 lbs. Revision XII that I am currently testing on my own boards weighs 765 grams or 1.6865 lbs. or 26.985 ounces (weights are with all related hardware). I am not looking to sell anything other than the concept as I do not have the capital to pursue this any further than I already have. I’d love to see someone take it to the next level for all to enjoy. I do have a couple sets of the 4X4 Gizmo’s made up for people interested to try. If there is any interest, I would bring them to SES for you to try in trade for your feedback. Take Care / Be Safe -- jp1 Glenn, Jack actually tested Revision II 'Gizmo's' which still had the single (solid, before splitting) Bottom Plate, which indeed had a huge footprint ! I have also since then gone with a better grade material which allows them to also be thinner thus lighter.

RIP Greg, Carve up 'The Big Hill ' !

I agree with lowrider, get some wrist guards that fit you properly. As extra insurance at times I've taped all four fingers together (KT Tape works great) and use mittens thus keeping all digits together lessening the chance of injury to them (IMO).

GoPro Mounts, NEW never used (sold camera). 1 pkg. Roll Bar Mount Kit. Roll Bar / Large Tube / Bike Frame / etc., fits tubes 1.4" to 2.5" diameter. Cost $29.99 + S&H. 1 pkg. Handlebar /Seatpost /Tube. Fits tubes .75" to 1.4" diameter. Cost $19.99 + S&H. Both Kits, New never used $ 30.00 + actual shipping OR will deliver free to SES :D.

Wow, now that is a Yard Sale ! Looks like the 'tie-downs' worked flawlessly.

Fully modified, orange tongues, Booster straps, BTS :) with springs softer than the Bomber yellows.

Just Thinking (that's rare). I don't know why, but I never gave it a thought before . I have a Road ID I use when cycling but never gave it a thought to wear when boarding. From here on out, I'll make it a point to wear it with any activity. Specially when attending an event that is not local.

FYI, I did the same with a 'Tool Dip' that you use to cover handles of tools, etc. It looked great when applied to mitts and worn jacket areas. Problem is, I'm a waterproofing and the Silicone based waterproofing that I applied previous to the Tool Dip appears to be hindering the Tool Dip's adhesion (already rolling up on the edges :( after 2 days use).

Paul, definately do not take Lovey off of the list ! While there is awesome riding and riders everywhere in the area, it looks like you have it pretty well figured out price wise. I'm sure you will enjoy meeting & riding with the LCI Surely, check out the Bomber shop & call Art as Fin stated. Fortunately 'packed' there is not like the packed (here anyway).

jtslalom, thanks for posting as a reminder ! Wishing the young lady the best for a rapid & full recovery. SBS, that picture looks like it is a millisecond from disaster. Hope all rode away upright (but it don't look promising).

Twenty something lady on ski's, behind us today in lift line. Excuse me, "What is that Contraption"

Awesome job by ALL involved, and great to see that something turned out 'as it should' for a change

Ink, we want pictures !!

Timeless, you could try VMB, Valley Mountain Bikers in the Lehigh Valley (Eastern Pa.) area. They are are pretty active group in the area & have a For Sale board.

I know first hand even " The best tune in North America " can mess up :( ..........

Ok, I'll ask, has anyone been to BM the past couple of days? If so, is it worthwhile?

Hard case SporTube. Direct flights only, Southwest Air counts it as one bag (free) packed full 49.5 lbs. :D wheels come in handy through airport.