teach

Updated my post above. For TD1 (or TD2) it looks like you should be able to use TD3 lugs as long as you get new shoulder bolts to fit the 8mm bore of the lugs. These aren't proprietary so you're in luck. Maybe some washers as necessary.

The current TD3 bails are shaped a little differently but fit in the TD1 lugs. Whether TD3 lugs fit TD1 bindings I'm not sure. I do have some TD1 -- when I dig them up I'll check. Update: TD1 shoulder bolts seem just slightly too big to fit through TD3 lugs. I can't find my calipers, but the TD3 axle (lug shaft) is 8mm while the TD1 shoulder bolt shaft is bigger (guessing imperial). So you would want new shoulder bolts, M6 threaded section, 8mm shoulder. Someone on here posted the parts page for Bishop telemark bindings as a source for lugs. They say compatible with original Bishop (Bomber Bishop?) so probably the same as TD1??

@lonbordin In the photos it looks to me like the midfoot width is much larger than UPZ. Is that noticeable in fit? Are you using Intuition Plug Race liners? Minus the 7mm foam insole slab? Do the TD3 toe bails bind on the sides of the boot toe? I have that problem with my UPZ already (depends on which generation of bail). Very interested to hear the ride report! Thanks for the information @slaposand @lonbordin

Looks great! I bet you could just make some standard toe and heel bails and let the buyer supply toe levers. The toe levers last longer than the bails... and I suppose someone might want to use f2 or snowpro or just a modified Catek.

I've had one break just as you you describe, while trying to remove the lug from the bail. That was on a new-to-me, used set of Sidewinders. I've had two bails deform the lugs so badly that they just slipped out while riding, of course bending in the process. Also on Sidewinders. At least one of those was the result of using yellow e-pads while being well over the weight limit Fin (later) suggested. I think it's important not to allow hard bottoming-out and I suggested a stiffer e-pad for us heavier riders, but that was around when the business was changing hands. A number of people have suggested rolled rather than cut threads on the bails, like bicycle spokes. Along the same lines, I wonder if brass lugs rather than aluminum would increase durability? I have not ridden SW much in the last several years (but a lot in the last month) and haven't had bail breakage with regular TD3. I do replace lugs from time to time, but it's gotten rather costly. Probably time to take everything apart and inspect...

I like the "High Sierra" ski bags as next-best-thing. Fits about the same as the Bomber sleeves. Works up to 187 cm at least. The boot bag is handy for travel. Often the combo is less than $30.

SOLD I found these among a box of liners I have. They look unused, but there seems to be a crease like you'd get if they were sitting in an overlap shell ski boot. They must be fairly old but they look great. Size 29 "made in France" (so maybe made by Palau?). I'm not going to use them. SOLD US$40 plus shipping SOLD

UPZ size 10/10.5/11 stamped 324mm. Used for maybe two seasons (30-40 half days?). I got them unused. While there's not a lot of time on these, some of that was hard time. I was still getting used to alpine gear and beat on these unintentionally. Also, a few times I got hit by out of control skiers/boarders. See the slice on the inner ankle area of the right boot that resulted from one of those incidents.The Besides the mostly cosmetic scars, I had a crack on the tab of the tongue where it attaches to the lower shell at the toe. The attachment bolt came out and I replaced it with a Bomber m6 screw temporarily with no washer. I guess that allowed some movement which stressed the plastic tab. When I got back I fixed the crack with acquaseal and got the correct bolt and washer from the NA UPZ dealer. These are the RTR, made just before the RC10s came out, maybe 2008 or 2009. They're a bit stiffer than the RC10s I use now. Heels aren't t-nutted and cuff is less adjustable (only one side adjustment). SIzing: if you're not familiar with UPZ sizing, be careful as there's a lot of different sizing charts and opinions out there. I would say these fit lengthwise like a Mondo 30 Deeluxe, with a wider toe box and narrower heel. A lot depends on your foot shape (where do you need the length?) and liner. These are often said to be suitable for 28.5-29.5 feet. Mine are on the high end of that range and I'm now using one size down due to having an extremely narrow heel and skinny ankle. I'll include the Flo liners (UPZ 10, the smallest for the shell) but they're heavy and will probably make shipping cost increase, so if you don't want them let me know. They're a little abraded at the top of the tongue. If you prefer I have some very well used Deeluxe thermo liners I could include for free. US$150 plus shipping

Oh, not sure. My girlfriend used them but adding goo was never necessary so we never explored those roads-rarely-travelled.

Do you think it's your heel bone hitting the upper part of the heel pocket? Deeluxe don't have much heel pocket, so that might be why you didn't have that issue with your old boots. The thermo liners probably have foam below the foot (unlike the Flo). That may cause your heel to be too high to fit the heel pocket. Just a thought. Are your heels pinched by the boots on the sides? Or is it the other extreme, heels lifting in the boot? If neither, then you're lucky and maybe just need a liner that has a thin sole and plenty of forefoot thickness. Some of the newer Intuition fit the bill, like the Pro Tongue (I think there's a higher volume version). Or Zipfit, where you can add goo in the forefoot area to get the fit you're looking for. The Flo does too, but to my knowledge can't be puffed up in areas you choose. If your heels are lifting in the boot, the best solution is to go to the next smaller shell (given the extra room you currently have). There are hacks, but best to do it right. If the UPZ heel is actually too narrow for you, well then... Harder problem. But it doesn't sound like that's it. With the thin-soled liner, a thin footbed would be a good idea as well, so as not to raise your heel up too much. You didn't mention what you use for footbeds.

Please post your experiences with them! I'm very curious.

The stated UPZ sizes are best thought of as "big, bigger, biggest". The one that UPZ calls 8.5/9/9.5 and many people call a 28 is much roomier than my Deeluxe 28. I just put my bare foot into those Deeluxes and can't believe I used to wear them. Both sides of foot touching plastic in front. Some toes hitting the front while heel backed up to shell. On the other hand, the UPZ gives nice clearance all around. (My larger foot is 29.8 cm measured flat.) The next UPZ size up is really huge. But if you had no problem with Deeluxe 30 I'm sure they'd be fine. There's not a lot of advantage to oversized boots, though. Harder to get toeside pressure to the edge.

I'll PM you. The Rev I listed in the For Sale has UPM inserts and rides beautifully. I've never ridden a plate on it though...

"Did you invent that yourself?" (blank stare from us while trying to comprehend. Oh, right, alpine gear!) Before we'd had a chance to gather our wits, another try: "Is that like what telemark is to skiing?"

Think about binding cant as if you had no boot cuffs. What angle do your feet need be supported at on the board to be relaxed, not blocked from some part of your range of motion? That can take a lot of things into account, like a messed-up boot board.The Now that that's settled, adjust the cuffs so theyre not in the way. Done. Yes, cuff canting isn't usually a game-changer, just fine -tuning, and worthless if the binding canting is wrong. I think that's partly because my UPZs aren't that stiff laterally. A WC ski boot would probably be a bigger deal.

I'm not sure bindings make much difference in what lift someone finds suitable. It's more convenient on bomber or catek though, for sure. I use 3 or 6 on the rear, 6 on front, with UPZ "size 28" ( 312 shell). I think maybe I prefer 3 on the rear. That's how I've rolled lately. The upz extreme ramp stuff seems to have reached myth status. Several years ago I measured the heel to toe drop in my UPZ and my old pair of Indys (M28) and they're about the same. Both too much, but nothing special about UPZ. I would just let the myth flourish but my girlfriend and I were setting up her new UPZs the other day and I thought about the high-ramp belief. With smaller boots, it's got to be worse. I asked her if the heels seemed noticeably higher than her raichle. She said no, maybe lower in fact. So I'm on a mythbuster crusade now.

Skiers pretty commonly cant their bindings (either with a cant strip under the binding or boot sole, or by shaving the boot sole itself). It's harder to fake it on skis, so more attention is paid to this, it seems. I suppose most doing this would then also cant their cuffs to accommodate. I cant my bindings outward a little, and boot cuffs correspondingly inward. As I get foot support dialed in, I find I need less outward binding cant.

It depends a lot on the shape of your lower leg, where the bulk of the calf is, for example. Also, if you need binding cant, you may also need opposing cuff cant to keep the alignment you're thinking of. Lots of variables.

Canting the cuff is different from canting the binding... Cuff canting affects the angle between the sole and lower leg, binding canting affects the angle between the sole and board. Inward binding cant was common in the olden times. A skateboard kicktail is a form of inward cant of this type, as is the pad you see on the tail of a lot of short surfboards. It probably has its place. But in both of those cases you can move your feet around.

SOLD THESE! I bought Loveland 4 packs last season but couldn't make it out in the spring before the closure (so close...). Last season's 4 pack tickets are good this season as direct -to-lift tickets (no need to make any reservations or anything or loiter at the window or in the office). Hoping to get out this spring but no way I can use all of my tickets, so putting some up for sale. $35 is about what I paid, I think, and a great deal even in normal circumstances. I'll sell four for now and cross my fingers that I will be able to use the other four. THESE 4 ARE SOLD! Thanks

I'll take the parts package A or C, if you still have them. PM sent

I'd be interested to see more photos of the jig. Any intention of making standard heel and toe bails? Do you make the spherical nuts, or do you have a source for them?

Sorry, it's sold. It was 19.2m "average of three sidecut radii" , versus 20.2m for the 185, according to SG 's specs. Ride is similar to the 185. Damp, solid, confident. Much more maneuverable than might be expected, but still some planning ahead required (for me, at least).

Sorry, Mr Bordin and Jshort. 20 cm waist. 14-20m sidecut. A lot more nimble that people expect given the sidecut. I have a number of boards that I can compare to, if that helps (again, not a racer or expert carver or even close).