teach

More pictures tomorrow. (Can't get this to display correctly without making it unnecessarily large...)

(Both metal binding plates are in ziploc bag, with all hardware taped in place; same for the plate itself)

SOLD! Somewhat hard to find 180 length. Nice shape, clean topsheet, one gash in base I noticed after waxing. Not deep enough to bother with a repair. Edges maybe 60-70% (previous owner got frequent shop tunes), sharp. I hardly rode this and it's been sitting for too long. I have too many boards around this size (including a 185 Full Race Titan from the same year I ride if I think can get some room...) $350 plus shipping. SOLD!

SOLD! Vist plate, all hardware, nothing stripped. $200 plus shipping. I'll add a photo shortly. SOLD!

Photos shortly. Edges and base excellent, top sheet chips along edges, metal below not damaged. Carbonium topsheet, not p-tex. A few discolored spots on edges, one small nick (picture coming), full thickness. I got this lightly used from Atom Ant and have gotten no base grinds or shop tunes (I maintain edges with a stone, base with a wax whizard). I used the board when I was 185-195 lb, around what Atom said he had it made for. It worked great for me then, but in the past few years I've been 225-245 lb and I find this a little softer than I like. So it hasn't been used in maybe four years. Someone should be getting use out of this. I should say I'm not a racer or even close, just a barely-intermediate career on a good day, and I mostly ride my local east coast 800 ft vertical hill. This board will make a wide range of turn sizes and shapes; it doesn't need a GS course of huge open bowl. It also works well on a range of snow conditions. Even cut-up heavy wet stuff is manageable. Very versatile. But it's not the board for an end-of December weekend at Stratton... $350, PayPal f/f, buyer pays shipping.

I'll take B or C. I'll PM you.

So right now I'm using the 291/312 shells. My TD3 toe and heel blocks are on the innermost holes. So plenty of room for outward adjustment. As I said above, I used to use the next shell size up (303/324) and had no problem. Before that I had M30 raichle af700 with no problem. With the shorter bails I suspect there might have been an issue. They did not exist then. But those are already a no-go for UPZ because they pinch the boot toe, taking away from the intended clamping force of the cam action. So you wouldn't want to use the short bails anyway, and if you don't, no need for long plates.

I had that size UPZ six or so years back and had no trouble with my TD3s. But the drillings on TD3 baseplates vary (even on the pairs I own). As do front bails. I like the older, higher-profile longer ones. Some of the newer ones squeeze the UPZ toe.

I'd suggest a read over BeckmannAG's guides to boot fitting and foot support and set up in general. Here is a place to start (and look under headings alpine skiing, hard and soft boot snowboarding). You may find that simply elevating the ball of the foot (just the big toe side) goes a long way to resolving your problem. Or not. The variety of things that can cause difficulty is astounding. The right footbed would likely help a lot, but unfortunately there don't seem to be many who can produce them. Can you ski one-footed well, carving left and right turns?

I asked because with that design, i'd think you'd want the kingpin threads through the flange. Otherwise it's a bit like scoring a sheet of glass, supporting just up to the score mark on one side and pushing on the other. But maybe they were and kingpin sheared as well?

The kingpin also sheared?

I can give those a new home. PM sending...

I've got 3s i'd trade. Pm sending...

As long as there aren't chunks missing I'm fine. The yellow pair are lightly used. Photo:

I'd like a pair of red TD3 erings. I have a set of yellow erings I don't use. I'd trade ideally.

You left a lot on the table there, not playing with outward cant on front or less extreme outward cant on the rear with the highly adjustable td2s. Did you do anything with foot support in the boots? Sounds like you're getting somewhere in any case.

Yes, I have them. Decent shape. I'll get photos tomorrow and PM you

No, I have the same concern. I really like the gloves I'm using now (leather) and the index finger gets abraded by the toe lever. I use duct tape on the lever, or a pull tab made from a broken bomber leash. The latter is great as I have some hip pain from smashing it a while back. The extra inch or two it saves me is gold. I'm going to get some dyneema or similar cord to make a few of these pull tabs to keep in my bag. I like the dip idea and may do that too! And sno seal on gloves for preservation. All fine ideas!

My daughter and I rode Siberia Bowl years ago, when she was about 10. It's seriously steep and absolutely wide open. No trail merges, just a huge bowl. I really can't think of an excuse for the 13 year old. Including "just being 13" . The closest I can come is that it's a parent and/or coach's responsibility to verify that the kid has the necessary common sense to not endanger others (or themselves). You wouldn't give your kid a gun and let him/her loose, right? Or a car? A year or two after that my daughter's school took kids skiing after school. The chaperones just let the kids loose, some with no previous experience skiing or snowboarding, with the whole gamut of extra-careful and conscientious to devil-may-care attitudes. A friend of my daughter was the latter type, headed for the attractive piles of freshly-made snow and hit some buried "hazards" (snowmaking water lines, probably) resulting in serious spine injury and paralysis. A fully preventable tragedy -- had any one of the responsible parties done their job, it wouldn't have happened. I think in order to sell as many people as possible on skiing, the risks are painted as just random risks, like air travel, rather than things people have a good degree of control over, like driving. Really unfortunate. I feel really bad for this 10 year old. I'm sure the 13 year old is mortified and now belatedly appreciates the responsibility he has when out on the mountain. The coach and parents? Maybe there's hope. Patrollers? Doesn't seem like there's hope.

In addition to the duct tape build-up under the ball of the foot i use a fair amount of outward canting on both bindings. I expect that getting the foot support right will reduce the need for outward canting, but have not reached that point yet. The airspace-under-the-ball-of-the foot syndrome causes the flattened out foot to measure a lot longer than when it's properly supported. In my case, it's at least a centimeter difference. Get some playing cards and stack them under the ball of your bare foot until standing one-footed relaxed is possible (no twitchiness). Then measure.

Forgive me for staying the obvious, but if your boots are indeed too big, most of the suggestions you'll get won't have a chance to be helpful, especially if they've accurately spotted another issue. Your foot's center is likely well back from your boot's center, so offsetting the bindings toeside may just be centering your feet. That's quite a hack, and getting boots that fit well would be a much better fix, if only to reduce misleading spurious issues. (The Beckmann procedure starts with getting your boots set up). Assuming that extra boot is at most a contributor to your issue, but not the major one, I'll suggest a potential cause of your autorotation. This plagues me in many ways, and I have still not 100% dealt with it properly. Beckmann pointed this connection out to me at ECES several years ago. Standing flat, while you're supposed to have "three points of support" on each foot, I only have two: heel and metatarsal for little toe. That is, I'm on the outsides of my feet. Letting the ball of my foot reach the ground puts my joints in an uncomfortable, grinding, unstable configuration (and causes knee issues for me). So riding one-footed off the lift is sketchy and either I'm stuck on heelside (and autorotate, though I've learned to control it a bit with back foot placement and maybe some contortions as others have suggested), or I'm fully committed to toeside. There's no middle ground, as having a balanced posture either requires "two-point" support (heelside leverage) or three-point support and compensating postural contortions that put me over the toeside edge (toeside pressure and leverage). There's a huge "dead zone" in between these extremes (air space under the ball of the foot). So transitioning from one to the other is nearly impossible, and will usually result in a caught edge. Maybe you have a similar situation? When I see riders with large difference in front and rear angles, I suspect this. Rotating the feet outwards allows the ball of the foot to reach the ground with less inward torque on the knees. Instead a little forward flexing does the job. But it's no help riding one-footed.I Hope that's at least slightly useful. The fix is to have support under the ball of the foot to allow "three point support" with a balanced, aligned posture . Beckmann suggested a particular kind of thick duct tape on the bottom of the footbed, layered under the area, adding layers until it feels stable (no twitchiness). I have not gotten this right yet. Way better than without, for sure.

Still available? PM sent

I might have what you're looking for. I'll dig it up this weekend and take some photos of it if you're still looking.

Your heel will settle into the liner after a few days out, and the toe box (neoprene, I guess) will stop feeling like it's curling your toes. Even with a "too small" liner. I have the next shell up and one pair of 9.5 liners (largest for the shell) and a pair of 9. They both work well now, but at first were way too short. (Actually, it takes a few minutes after putting then on before your foot settles in, and they seem tight before that. I just wear them more or less unbuckled until I get on the snow. No problems then, good all day.) -You have the largest liners for your shell. Doesn't mean an 8.5 wouldn't work though, I suppose. -The toe is meant to give, a lot. That's why it's a different material. -Intuition pro tongue liners are thinner, with a similar toe box and sole, and would work if you're otherwise not having success. These actually leave too much space for me but seem like they'd be very good.

I think I have two. Do you have any 6 degree to trade?