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TimW last won the day on April 4 2019

TimW had the most liked content!

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About TimW

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    Anything with snow
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  1. Skier: That is antique! The board was new
  2. Would definitely be too much board for me! I had a Kessler 185 which felt ok-ish when it was soft so it would flex, but on hard snow I just needed too much speed to my liking. But 25m scr, respect!
  3. After my post I did the neoprene upgrade, see pic. Piece cut from an old wetsuit and glued to the shell to make sure it stays in place. Tested them today and works perfectly. Before that I used the piece of 2mm rubber to the left, just clamped between the shell and the tongue(so where the neoprene is now)
  4. I solved the snow issue on my Deeluxe with a piece of 2mm thick rubber put between the shell and the tonque. Sometimes a little bit gets in, but 90% solved. I think a softer rubber (neoprene) would do a 100%.
  5. Just that pic almost makes me want to try it again(but then on an alpine board).
  6. Not to me. With the front sliding, drag on the nose (e.g. digging a trench, hitting a bump) when the board is bent will increase the bending moment in the center section, increasing board deflection. With the slider at the back that effect is not present. Cannot see a benefit of the slider at the front to be honest. With a board with a stiff middle section the effect will be minimal. For this board it would be bigger. The sliding and non sliding hinges are completely interchageable, so I can just try.
  7. And with plate. The plate has 'rocker' because I ride with both bindings flat and I do not want to adjust it for the board not bending, so I pre-bent the plate. Hinges in front, slider at the back.
  8. I started out with choosing a 70cm distance between the pivot points of the plate. This is similar to what allflex / apex uses and also makes sense to me. Closer together (under the bindings) you loose fore/aft stability compared to no plate (by introducing the pivot) First iteration was with an uniform pressure distribution along the length, with only tapering at the tip and tail. This is what I did for previous designs and resulted in very nice boards. But now I needed too long effective edge to my liking to have a reasonable core thickness in the center (I actually built a board based on this, but messed it up by releasing the vacuum too soon, new resin surprised me with a much longer cure time) Next iteration I changed from the uniform distribution to making a dent pressure between the binding. Below what I used eventually: With the camber I did a similar thing. The center has a bit less curvature than at the pivots. Based on this I got the following stiffness distribution. You see that the stiffness in the center is still only half of that at the pivot points. WIthout the dents in pressure and camber this would be even less. The reduced center camber should also result in the pressure distribution shifting towards tip and tail for higher edge angles, giving a stabilizing effect. From the stiffness I calculate the core thickness I need for it (the stack is base - 0.4 titanal - 300gsm biax carbon - core - 300gsm biax carbon - 0.6 titanal - topsheet). Core thickness is below: In the tip and tail the core thickness would need to be zero to match the target stiffness, 1 mm is the smallest which is still practical in manufacturing. To compensate I decamber the tip and tail. Actually the decamber in the nose is a little bit more than intended. Biggest difference in my boards is the much more aggressive tapering than most boards, directly next to the binding they taper down aggressively.
  9. Agree with Corran and Dan on their assessment of monoskiing . Only in powder it was OK, on piste it never felt right. But monoskiing seems to get a bit more attention. Somebody even bought our Rossi 80's monoski two months ago! Also still have a Swingbo, but I guess the only way to make that hot again is to set it on fire....
  10. Finished new board, really happy with the result (apart from the cosmetic flaw on the topsheet at one of the inserts) 182, 170cm effective edge, 20.5 cm width, 15m radius. Titanal / biax carbon laminate, maple core. Now I just have to finish the plate with hardware to be able to ride it.
  11. Agree with BlueB and others, most important thing is initiation, get rid of that skid. The other thing I noticed is you ride with quite a lot of speed, does not make it easier. Guess the inclination of the run and the snow conditions also make you need that skid to control your speed. I'd suggest to work on the initiation on a mellow slope to get the confidence to tip it on the edge, and once you get to the pencil lines slowly go to steeper slopes. Getting low, bending the knees, etc. , while definitely helping control, is not critical to me. You can also carve hard more upright. For now I would focus my mind on the initiation and not on getting low, one thing at a time.
  12. I would guess a bit of DIY?
  13. For unused inserts it would be good to put in a bolt, with ring(s) if necessary, so it clamps down the the topsheet. That constrains the top sheet and will give a better stress state. Still a weak spot, but not as much.
  14. I have Deeluxe Lemans and always ride with both unlocked, with the knob turned on the back boot so it cannot go fully upright. Works fine for me, also carving hard on steep runs. The locked position does not work for me at all. May try BTS someday, but don't feel the need. FYI, I'm 80kg, 191cm (180lbs, 6'3)
  15. Cool, my first snowboard! (well, 2nd, first was a horrible homemade board) It was a cheap low quality board, I bought it used from a rental shop. It seemed to be one uniform type of plastic when drilling holes in it for mounting bindings. But actually the ride was quite OK, it had a nice sidecut, which a lot of boards did not have yet. 1987 I think 1988.
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