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How was MLK weekend? I went Monday afternoon/evening and it was nice, not crowded at all, very fast snow. This week was pretty good, except the constant snowmaking made it pretty raw and patchy. Generally firm and not too fast. Raceway should be open now. There were huge piles of snow being pushed around on it Friday. Anyone going tomorrow afternoon?

SIze 28 Deeluxe Indy, used but sound, with Intuition Powerwrap liners (nearly new), and blue BTS. I'll separate or have other liner options if you want.

I have a Burton Factory Prime 167, black (last production year, I believe) 19 cm waist, 12.29 m sidecut radius. Pretty nice condition.

I haven't tried those, but I have the same swelling issue. My routine: Ibuprofen beforehand. Ibuprofen afterwards. Ice afterwards if it's bad. One of those gel wraps works nicely on the drive home. For me, a lot depends on setup. A board that's too wide and/or low angles (< 60 degrees) cause extra swelling, maybe due to leverage of the board or position of the joint. That gets so bad I'm not able to ride (or even go down stairs) the next day. Proper foot support is really important (and not easy to achieve), getting cants and lift just so, helps enormously. With all this close to right, I'm OK for several full days in a row, no ice needed. I used to wear an ordinary neoprene knee wrap/brace. It seemed to help, maybe by just keeping the joint warm.

It looks like Raceway might be ready for MLK weekend. They had it mostly covered, together with some piles they'll push around. A lot more snow today, more runs open and well-covered (Marjie's, Tut, don't know what else). pmorita, probably worth bringing a carving board. It was a lot less busy today that previous seasons leading up to MLK weekend, never waited for a chair. Maybe that means the weekend won't be as crazy as usual.

My best wild speculation says that maybe the late start to the season will keep the crowds down for this MLK day. Or maybe that's just wishful thinking... No snow being blown on Raceway when I was there. It was all grass. That's a shame because it diverts a lot of traffic from Rhododendron Glen. But I bet they'll be doing that tomorrow.

Conditions were surprisingly good today. Only three main runs, but one was Rhododendron Glen, and well-covered/groomed nearly full width. A little soft in spots (as in loose, not melty). A lot of snowmaking to cover other trails and repair damage from the rain Sat/Sun (Marjie's). The next nights are all cold so coverage should be good on other trails soon. Anyone going this week at all?

Anyone ride there yet? Looks like Monday might be OK, Tuesday I'm definitely going. Supposedly Rhododendron Glen is open already, but I wonder if that's just the middle third?

I used those boots in M30 with TD3s with no issue. The newer TD3 toe bails are shorter, though. You could look for longer bails or the long baseplate. Use the boots that work best, then get the bindings to fit. The SB shells (325, 225) are a little shorter than the AF (700), for the same marked size. They also have a different shape.

You can adjust the position of the tongue. It attaches with velcro to the top of the toe. Did you play with that? It can make a huge difference since the tongue is stiff and shaped... it needs to fit the shape of your foot. As for fit with TD3 standard, the heel bail will engage easily after a few clip-ins. I got new UPZs and never even noticed, but the earlier pair I had had that issue but only briefly.

The flo liner is meant to stretch in the toe area, like the higher-end ski boot liners I've seen. There are three liner sizes per shell, and the ones with larger numbers are presumably the same length, but thinner, so there's more room left for your foot. I have had a few sizes and this seems to be true, but am not a UPZ expert so who knows. If you're going Intuition, have a look at Intuition Pro Tongue liners. They don't have the thick foam on the sole to take up all the room. And they have the neoprene toe area like the flo... They may fit a size smaller shell; that is, you could maybe size up without crowding. Basic idea: get the shell right, then mess with liners. Sounds like you have the right shell, but aside from what Dan says, how is the shell fit?

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I have some. Do you want plates or plates plus cants/e-rings/center disks?

If you carve the wall rather than kickturn you can carry a lot more speed, increasing that crazy rush. Loosen your trucks, put in softer bushings, a bit at a time (let you ankles adjust) and this will be a lot easier. For me, a longer wheelbase makes this even more enjoyable. Have not done this in at least a year for fear of screwing up my knee. I'm feeling the pull though. Yup, me too. Start them early!

180 RC II metal from 2007? Great for lighter rider (I'm 210-215 now and even at 190 it seemed a little soft), best board I've ever ridden in bumped up conditions.

1mm = 1 thread. You want wide heads or maybe washers with a longer screw. Donek carries them now, just get the originals: http://www.donek.com/product/f2-mounting-screws/

I have a few 167 Burton Factory Prime 19 cm waist, from the last year (black topsheet), $120, pretty good flex for that weight 167 Sims Carve II 21 cm waist, $75? (could be a little soft for 175 lb) I'd consider TD1 std for sure

I have some F2 Race Ti in large. I'll dig them out. I'd definitely trade for OS1s if they're long plate, standard. Pretty sure I met you at A-Basin last spring.

That allows for more movement, a necessity to really shred. I'd only suggest the BP lower to get a mm or two lower.

Anyone going to be riding Camelback this season?

We had snow here. Welcome to PA! If you get out to eastern PA come to Camelback.

The Dipstick is obsolete, replaced by the Dipstick V2: http://toolmonger.com/2007/04/25/cheap-ass-tools-plastic-vernier-calipers/. Its uses are limited only by imagination.

These are usually pretty stiff, right? 19.5 waist, around 15 m scr? I'm asking because a number of newer BOL members have been looking for a board suitable for 225-250 lbs or so, and this looks like it might be a really nice choice. Can you comment on weight range for this? Photos of this model in action: https://donek.smugmug.com/Sports/Snowboard-and-Ski/Snowboard-Racing-2005/3025652_Rccdfb#!i=26170555&k=CLpwd7P (Photo by Donek, rider Thorndike!)

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What Monodude said. The Catek tilt screws are 1 mm thread pitch (standard for M6), and I think they're conveniently 60 mm apart, so cant and lift in degrees would be very nearly the difference in number of turns side to side or front to back respectively. Thank a devotee of the Rule of 60 for that! EDIT: Just dug out my Catek OS1s. The tilt screws are about 60 mm apart side to side, but more like 85 mm front-to-back. Recalculating... So if d is the difference in number of turns and L is the distance between respective tilt screws, the angle they create is the arctangent of d/L. It's approximately d * 60/L when the angle is small. So when L = 60 it's all nice and easy. But 85? Who ordered that? RE-EDIT: Just did some more measuring. The tilt screws are M8, not M6, and standard M8 thread pitch of 1.25 mm. So 4 turns gets you 5 mm. You'd need to multiply the difference in number of turns by 1.25 then. So you get the approximate formula d * 75/L for lift or cant in degrees. I also dug out my set of OS2s. The holes for the dipstick are 55 mm apart. The dipstick is marked in mm. So the differential measurement is the d * 1.25 above, and L = 55. For approximation purposes, 55 is as good as 60 (57.3 is even better). So the differential measurement is approximately the lift or cant in degrees. You could just use the depth gauge on a standard caliper in place of the dipstick. It's probably easier to read.