tenorman

hi ROY noticed in the photo that you are still wearing your deeluxe boots. did you get your new upz boots punched out yet?

hi BORIS maybe try setting up the board differently. i remember reading about CLIFF AHUMADA about 10 years ago. i'm pretty sure his angles were 69 front and 58 rear with rear heel cant but no front toe lift. maybe you could try similar angles or at least the big 11 degree splay. also, i seem to recall he only rode a 17 inch stance which surprised me at the time because that was what racers rode at while freecarvers generally were 18 and over back then. it could be the board was designed for this type of binding setup? another factor is i think he is about your size too as i remember reading that he was 6'1 and 175 pounds (he probably gained about 5 pounds since then and is now the same weight as you as that was his weight over 10 years ago lol.) you may be able to verify the info above through bomberonline member PAT DONNELLY as i remember he used to sign off all his posts on bomberonline about 10 years ago with the phrase "PURECARVE STYLE" so he probably knows some of the original purecarve crew--specifically CLIFF AHUMADA.

hi BORIS and STEVE thanks for the info BORIS. i guess snowpros are out and it will have to be td3 as i don't have td2s--i was on a self imposed exile from bomberonline for about 10 years and missed the td2 era lol. btw STEVE the td2 you see on the purecarve maverick belongs to BORIS--the photo was actually taken in his garage. guess i can try to ask DAVE* if he wants to trade my shiny near new td3 for his his beat up td2 and old spare size 31.5 boots. however, have to wait to see what STEVE's foot size is. on second thought that doesn't help either as the td3 only fits size 30! yikes! better wait for STEVE's footsize info before doing further legwork otherwise we can waste a lot of time chasing untenable solutions. true about the fritschi bails being 5mm but STEVE's 200 pound mass nixed that option, the snowpros had 6mm but then again STEVE's big feet nixed that option--AGAIN!

hi DUDE i agree with the previous posters in that there isn’t anything wrong with your gear except maybe the ski boots. however, you didn’t tell us what type of ski boots you have. if you are unsure then post a pic. aside from the ubiquitous flexons there are a few other brands of ski boots that will work—especially flexier beginner models with less than 4 buckles. so maybe your boots might do in a pinch until you decide to stick with carving before spending more money on real snowboarding hardboots. i don’t know if this is the case or not and forgive me if i am wrong but looking at the photo of your board it appears you have the bindings mounted incorrectly. for that particular sims model there is a definite FRONT and REAR binding. they are NOT interchangeable. in your photo the toe plate of the front binding appears to be lower than the toe plate of the rear binding. therefore you need to switch them around (remove both bindings and remount so the previous front binding is now in the rear and the previous rear binding is now in the front.) don’t feel bad if this is indeed the case as both bindings look almost identical. the only way to tell is to look carefully at both bindings from the SIDE. you will notice that for the rear binding the toe piece sits flush with the sizing adjustment slider and that the heel piece sits a few millimeters higher so that you should see a thin band of lighter coloured thermoplastic underneath the heel piece. the reverse case will be true for the front binding—you will see the thin band of lighter coloured thermoplastic underneath the toe piece. since the basplate angles up at both ends it is difficult to tell whether the toe or heel is higher unless you look for the thin band of lighter coloured plastic under the higher piece (toe or heel.) i wish i could post a picture of the side view so i could show you what i am talking about but i just gave those bindings away to my friend GEORGE (bomberonline member CRUCIBLE) on saturday. if you still need to see a picture of the side view showing how to identify the front and rear binding then let me know and i will ask him to post a photo. on second thought here is a picture of the board i am giving to my friend STEVE it has the same sims bindings attached before i removed them when i discovered they were too small to fit a mondo 29 raichle boot and gave them to GEORGE instead. it’s just a top view which doesn’t show the difference i was talking about in the previous paragraph but at least you can tell whether or not they are the same bindings as yours. from the angle of YOUR posted photo it appears to be exactly the same set of bindings. your bindings are pretty good and i remember them as being quite strong and stout which is why i was hoping my 200 pound friend STEVE could use them—unfortunately his feet are too big. compared to the other thermoplastic bindings at the time, the sims bindings were more like the well regarded fritschi bindings rather than the lesser regarded oxygen bindings which were prone to cracking. since your sims bindings are stiffer than burtons, f2s and snowpros (but not nearly as stiff as bombers) it could be that your bindings are too stiff to mate well with your already stiff ski boots and you need a little more flex. in that case the previous poster(s) advice to get snowboard boots (which will be flexier) will be just the thing to keep you in the alpine snowboarding brotherhood. Either that or get flexier bindings like f2 or burton but then you would still be stuck with ski boots. the only real legitimate reason to replace your bindings is if you need canting. This particular sims binding does not have integrated canting like a fritschi or oxygen. It only has lift—not everyone needs canting but almost everyone needs lift. However, you can use homemade shims to cant but do so at your own risk. bomberonline member SHRED GRUMMER maybe able to tell you more about this binding as i believe he had a similar set of first generation sims bindings back in the day also. try to make a few adjustments and try your gear again and hopefully you will have a more positive experience with your hardbooting. later doug p.s. judging by your username are you a QUINCY JONES fan by any chance?

hi steve you are just the candidate for hardbooting. just change the word SLASH to BOTTOMTURN and you will have described hardooting! thanks for responding so quickly since i know you had your hands full with the BONELLI races last week. hope that went well and that you didn’t sustain any injuries. i already brought your board over to BORIS’ house last saturday and it can be shipped immediately if you are in a hurry for it it is a race stock prior wcr. i generally like stiff boards so a few years ago i had asked a racer (200 pounder like you) to order an extra one for me. the board is 175 cm long and 19.5 cm wide. it is much thicker than the stock prior and i doubt that even 250 pound BOBDEA can easily flex this thing—in fact BORIS nearly had a hernia trying to hand flex it lol. the board was the last generation of square tails before the wcr line went round tail so it will ride like a roundtail that is about 2 cm longer (177cm overall.) since the board was so stiff I could only ride it in hero conditions for no more than a few hours at a time before i was exhausted and i am a small guy (181 cm tall and 69.5 kilograms in weight.) with your extra height, weight and YOUTH you will be able to ride it for the entire day provided you are in good shape and use good technique. i doubt the board has more than 10 or 15 days on it in total so there is still plenty of life left. the original camber is probably still all there too. BORIS’ comment was “wow, this thing has a lot of camber” lol. also plenty of edge left--at least 95 % would be a conservative guess. the 175 cm length is still short enough for a strong kid like you to muscle around during the initial “poor technique” learning stages but long enough to be stable at speed. any longer and you will have trouble handling icy conditions (even west coast faux ice lol) on narrow trails. i don’t think you will be able to outperform this board for many years and will probably last as long as you have fun riding it. i hope the board meets with your approval—here are the photos (i accidentally deleted the photo comparing the thickness of your board with BORIS’ stock wcr so ask him to post one if you need it:) if you have no objections to this board then just email BORIS (bomberonline member BlueB) your shipping information. however your big feet and uncertainty of their size is presenting unforeseen problems with the bindings. i originally found a set of lightly used but very stout bindings that would handle your weight that should have fit a size 30 mondo boot. unfortunately, i used my new upz boots to estimate the upper limit in the binding’s adjustable range. when i tried to clamp one of ROY’s size 29 deeluxe/raichle boots in the bindings the boots were too big! the bindings would only work for you if you had upz boots but would likely be too small with raichle boots. i still don’t know what you meant by 30ish mondo. is your foot between 29 and 30 cm or between 30 and 31 cm or even BIGGER??? the problem is all my bindings are short plates which only fit mondo 27 or 27.5 depending on the boot and definitely won’t accommodate 30ish mondo. although i do have one pair of med/large f2 bindings (they only come in 2 sizes: sm/med and med/large) that i use whenever i ski and snowboard on the same day without changing out of my flexons the bindings are fairly old and probably not as safe for a hard charging 200 pounder unless they were brand new. i would advise you not to use these older f2 bindings but they are available if you insist. since snowboard boots lack the standardization of ski boots (DIN standard) it would be best to bring the boot with you while shopping for bindings or vice versa. this is necessary as you are probably at the outer limits of the maximum adjustment for whatever brand of bindings you choose. too bad you didn’t have medium sized feet lol. there are a few possible solutions: 1. cut off part of your foot so you can wear industry standard size 27 footwear. 2. ship you the board only and have you try to buy boots and bindings on your own in california. Option 2 can be done immediately without delay. 3. have you carefully measure your foot and trace it and email the size and diagram to me and i will try to get a pair of boots that will fit and then i can use these boots to ensure the bindings are large enough before i ship it to you. 4. the snowpros bindings are rated at up to size 31 but i think this is for upz boots only—it will possibly fit a 30 deeluxe/raichle boot. the td3 will fit up to size 30 mondo deeluxe/raichle boot . so it looks like either binding should work but only if your foot measures less than 31 cm and you can cram it into a 30 mondo point raichle boot or slightly bigger upz boot. although i have about half a dozen old pairs of snowpros i am afraid of sending you a pair as they are old and i would never forgive myself if the bails were fatigued and you ended up breaking them and hurting yourself since you are so much heavier than i am. luckily i bought a new pair of snowpros this summer so i can send those to you as i can then be sure there is zero fatigue on them and they are still at their maximum strength in terms of safety and reliability. i just got these as backups so i will have plenty of time to order another pair before i will actually need them. alternatively, my td3 bindings only have about 10 days on them as i can only use them with burton boots—they are too big for my ups boots. since I got new upz boots this year i will have to spend most of my time on them trying to break them in as soon as possible. it is doubtful i would even use my td3 bindings at all this year so hopefully when it comes time to replace them the new model next year will accommodate smaller boots WITHOUT UNDUE MODIFICATIONS. otherwise i will have an unpleasant choice in the future of whether to give up upz boots or td3 bindings as I am not willing to use step-ins which accommodate all sizes of boots. Option 4 of sending the board with either of these bindings choices (brand new snowpros or my lightly used td3s) can probably be done this saturday as that is the only day that is mutually convenient for BlueB and me. all i have to do is bring the bindings to BORIS’ house since the board is already there awaiting your instructions. since you will have the bindings you will be able to take them with you when you shop for boots. 5. BORIS suggested bomber bindings right off the bat because he knew i had 2 pairs of old td1 bindigs but i’ve had problems with td1’s ripping out inserts in the past so i would advise against you using td1 bindings! besides they are both dual 3 and 4 hole pattern so i want to keep as much burton compatible product as possible—being a big burton fan lol. however, it is an option if you want to risk it but I strongly advise against it. just offering this option out of respect for BORIS. whatever you decide please remember the following: - CANADA POST DEADLINE FOR SHIPPING TO THE U.S. IS DECEMBER 1, 2009 TO ENSURE DELIVERY BEFORE XMAS AND I AM GUESSING YOU WANT TO USE THIS STUFF DURING YOUR XMAS HOLIDAYS FROM SCHOOL. BESIDES I DON’T WANT TO DEAL WITH THIS MUCH LONGER AS MUCH AS YOU DISLIKE WAITING ANY LONGER. LET’S GET’ER DONE ASAP. - TRY TO BUY YOUR BOOTS IN PERSON IF AT ALL POSSIBLE. YOU REALLY SHOULD TO TRY THEM ON YOUR FEET BEFORE YOU BUY—THAT IS THE ONLY WAY TO ENSURE THEY FIT! MAIL ORDER IS A LAST RESORT. let me know how you want to proceed. you people with sasquatch sized feet sure cause a lot of problems lol. later doug

hi STEVE thanks for the quick response. give me until the end of the week to select a suitable board and set of bindngs for you as i have stuff stored both in the city and in the valley. in the meantime i need your exact foot size to try and find you a pair of boots. follow these guidelines copied/pasted from the bomberonline store to measure your feet: "Determing size: What the Heck is "Mondo"? Mondo is a European sizing system that is determined by Centimeters, and not random sizes like “8” or”10”. It is partially determined by the size of your feet and the size of your liners. If you have Mondo sized boots, the liners will be the same size. If you do not have Mondo sized boots, you will need to know this size. How to Measure: To find your Mondo size, place your foot on a piece of paper and mark your longest toe and heel of your longest foot, or stand against a wall and mark the longest part of your foot on a paper. Measure this distance in Centimeters (inches X 2.54). This is your Mondo size. DO NOT CONVERT YOUR USA SIZE TO MONDO or VICE VERSA!!! Use the steps we have listed above, then downsize to the nearest whole size. It will be one of the following sizes: 22 – 23 – 24 – 25 – 26 – 27 – 28 – 29 – 30 – 31 IMPORTANT: The sizes are from *.0 - *.9. If you measure a 26.7, let’s say, then you would downsize to a size 26 because the shell/liner will fit a size 26.0 – 26.9. If you go to a size 27, now you are in a boot/liner that fits 27.0 – 27.9. Downsizing is recommended." if you could post this info on this thread before saturday then everyone can start keeping an eye out for boots in your PROBABLE size. the vancouver crew is meeting this saturday to divide up our new boards that we had delivered to a single address to minimize costs so this will give me a chance to grab some free shipping materials after everybody unpacks and to see if anybody has any leads on boots in your size. this way we don’t have to make a special effort soley on your behalf—AS YOU CAN SEE WE ARE NOT AS NICE AS YOU THINK, just consummate multi-taskers lol. your stuff will be probably be shipped saturday, november 21.depending on how long it takes to find you some used boots. hope you will be home to receive the parcel during this timeframe. in the meantime i suggest you also try finding boots on your own in case no boots are available up here. let me know asap if you find some boots on your own as i can then immediately ship the board otherwise it will definitely be cheaper to ship the boots and board together in one big parcel. one last bit of advice on bootfitting is most newbs end up with boots that are too big so make sure you trace as closely to your foot as possible. make sure you do this a few times until you consistently get the same number. at your age you are probably still growing so don’t think about GROWING INTO YOUR BOOTS--everyone on this website will tell you that would be a bad idea. make sure the boots fit from the get go otherwise it will be a nightmare learning to hardboot. btw what is your existing softboot board? the one you use for freeriding not jibbing. this will give me an idea of how aggressively you ride. i think venom elastomer upgrade kits won't be far behind lol! catch up with you again next week. doug

hi BORIS i just left STEVE a message at silverfish as he is always posting there and instructed him to deal with this matter here on bomberonline. he's probably busy with school now so may not hear from him until the weekend. STEVE is from southern cal. somewhere in the greater los angeles area i think.

hi BORIS i don't have time to help STEVE DOMAN (at least for a few more weeks) as i am still trying to squeeze out the last of the snowless trails on my new bike. his WTB thread is here: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26668 i have skated with this kid before and at the time i thought he would be a natural at hardbooting. imagine my surprise (and pleasure) when i saw his post. i won't be checking bomberonline much until the snowboard season starts locally so please keep an eye out for my boy STEVIE D. until then. thanks doug

welcome to bomberonline young mr. DOMAN this is doug the old guy with all the cutting boards and duct tape gloves who hates footbraking. i would have replied sooner but i just stumbled on this thread accidentally while clicking on the profile of a poster from the BINDING SETUP FOR BURTON PJ thread in the carving community forum. i am sure i have at least one super stiff raceboard (either an older f2 speedster, nidecker extreme or prior wcr) from my existing quiver that i seldom use that will handle your hard charging 200 pound frame. i’ve also got lots of NON-burton bindings (oxygen, snowpro, sims, fritschi, f2 etc) that i’ve only used a few times. i’ll look them over and evaluate them and find you the least used and strongest set suitable for your situation. although i do have a vast collection of burton bindings i don’t like to part with them (lots of burton haters on bomberonline—i am NOT one of them.) since you weigh over 180 pounds i don’t really have any stock burton boards except for a few team issue boards that will handle your 200 pounds (and you are probably still growing too!) the only way to get a burton team board from me is to pry it out of my dead hands! let me know where to ship the board and bindings. don’t worry about the price—no charge and i’ll also pay your shipping costs since you are on a tight student budget. sorry i can’t help with your mondo 30 boots--all my boots are in the mondo 27 range. i suggest you try contacting my friend BORIS (his bomberonline user name is BlueB and his bomberonline email is normally enabled.) BORIS usually tries to keep an assortment of boot sizes on hand for his students at the cypress snowboard school where he teaches on weekends. i know you are on a student budget so don’t worry about the price of any boots that BORIS can dig up—he is easily bribed with skateboard wheels and parts if you don’t have much money. in any case, i’ll cover any shortfalls in payment for you in case the only boots he can find are too expensive. i am really stoked you are going to give alpine snowboarding a chance. since i have skated with you i can tell you with certainty that your skateboarding style will translate well to alpine snowboarding. you will soon learn to appreciate the fact that it hurts a lot less to fall on snow than on concrete—most importantly you don’t have to worry about getting hit by a car! i’ve been trying to get TOM EDSTRAND on an alpine board for years. i even dropped off a lift ticket for him and i’ve deliberately delayed retrieving one of my prior wcr boards from the landyachtz offices for years hoping the guy would get off his lazy ass and try it out. i don’t know what more I can do lol! it will be probably easier if you get in touch with me through BORIS as i am only at home in burnaby about 5 or 6 days a month during the summer and fall. BORIS can give you my home phone number and email address if you need it. alternatively you can get my contact info from TOM EDSTRAND at landyachtz if BORIS is too busy. btw i thought you might like this photo i took of you and ZAK MAYTUM in calgary: later doug p.s. say hello to JIMMY FLINDT for me

lucky it was a cue ball and not a watermelon.

sadly, the fact that ROSS did NOT smoke but only inhaled is irrefutable proof that he is not cut out for politics. in order to succeed in politics he should have done the exact opposite—smoke but do NOT inhale. BILL CLINTON one of the most successful (economically) U.S. presidents is a good example.

hi vancouver beginners: i think WAVECHASER means a beginner category SLALOM race. you can get seriously hurt in a DOWNHILL race as there are no beginner categories. the hill BLUEB picked in coquitlam for practicing downhill is actually a lower mainland slalom venue. probably the east coast slalomers would find it too flat but most of the cone dodgers here are using it as cross training for downhill—in other words we all suck at slalom out here in the vancouver area lol. here’s a video of a slalom event we had out here a few years ago. <object height="344" width="425"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ds-c84gh6c&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"></object> the fast guy at 45 seconds is BRAD JACKMAN. the crazy guy skating in his bare feet at 57 seconds is BRIAN “KING BRIAN” ELDERKIN. other fast guys are: MALCOLM STOOKE at 1:14. COREY MOY at 1:27. PATRICK “P-SWISS” SWITZER at 1:41. KEVIN “K-RIMES” REIMER at 2:11. btw i’m the slow guy at 2:17. it is interesting to compare the slalom riding of KRIMES & P-SWISS with their downhill riding in the "PURPS" video posted by OLDSNOWBOARDS in this thread: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26060&page=2

hi BLUEB i think NILS is correct. you must be thinking of the rossi THROTTLE with almost identical graphics. i also had a 167 throttle--it was great when new but the VAS foam core noodled out fast and was useless after about 20 days of hard riding. my friend ANDY BONIFACE (snowboard director at mt. seymour) had a rossi VAS core ACCELERATOR back in the day also. i believe he had a similar experience as mine in that the VAS foam core broke down prematurely.

hi guys i can't make it on saturday but will be able to skate late sunday afternoon if you guys are still down. have fun on saturday. doug

hi POKKIS those kahalanis are great trucks and are a direct alternative to surf-rodz in that both do not use spherical bearings. i just bought a pair of 2009 bear smokies in july. they incorporate a spherical bearing in the hangar (like my older jimz’s) and an additional spherical bearing in the pivot cup (unlike my older jimz’s.) i think the jury is still out on the necessity of spherical bearings. the spherical certainly eliminates slop as designed but the extra maintenance is daunting! you have to keep the spherical bearings lubed religiously and they have been known to seize even when properly maintained. also the spherical imparts are very loose unimpeded feeling to your turns—similar to a surfboard trimming at the top of a wave. there are both pros and cons in that you may get slightly more turn sensitivity but it’s very unforgiving—very twitchy so you have to relax and not oversteer. here’s a pic of my 2009 bear smokies (10 mm axles and 190 mm hangar with) with the spherical bearings detached so that you can get a more comprehensive look. unfortunately, i was unable to remove one spherical that had seized on the pivot pin.—you can see in the photo that i managed to get it off about 4 or 5 mm but it’s stuck and i ruined the bearing in the process—luckily they are cheap and cost less than 10 bucks. i should have listened to the guys at landyachtz and just left it alone and hammered it off when it actually needed replacing—damn my impatience! anyhow i already contacted landyachtz and they said to drop it by anytime and they would remove it for me but i’m going to give it one last try after soaking it in wd40 for a few days before bothering landyachtz again. anyway, i just wanted to point out an example of a truck that uses spherical bearings. don’t know which i like better but if the price of the surf-rodz look good i might give non-sphericals a try.

hi UTAHCARVER always nice to see an old school bert. nowadays when the young kids get to the top they just kickturn—how boring! here’s a pic of my homepark--the new west skatepark (located about a half hour drive from the vancouver airport in case you ever are in the area.): it’s an old school style park with 2 big mellow bowls, continuously flowing lines and well thought out transitions. drop in or push off once and pump for hours without having to put your foot down again until you are ready to go home. in the photo i’m doing a bert on one of my old 29 inch homemade cutaway pool boards. the trucks are 130 mm wide indy clones and the wheels are relatively modern abec11 flashbacks in 88a duro (that was the softest duro i could use and still maintain enough speed to reach the lip.) the photo was taken by my friend TOBY DONALDSON in july of 2004. I was 47 years old at the time of the photo—hence the decrepit riding form and excessive body armour. gotta keep the old bones intact!

hi BLUEB i made a few tweaks to roy's board which i thought was necessary after seeing him ride 2 weeks ago otherwise i would have just let him keep the board as is. all my carving boards are for a sub 200 pounder so i didn't have anything suitable for him to use. the only thing to do was to try to tweak the set up of one of my stiffer dh boards as a big heavy guy's carving board. i think i found the solution. the demonseed with an indy 215 clone at the rear mounted flat until he learns to slide properly and then dewedge it. since he was complaining that the randall r2 wasn't turning quick enough for him, i swapped it out for a revenge truck. as long as he stays under 20 mph he should avoid death. i think after he gets better and starts going faster he will definitely want to put either the randall or indy back up front. unless you are really skillful (i am not) the revenge trucks seem to be more of a slow speed supercarving gimmick than a serious higher speed truck. i dug out some mint condition 76 mm krypto classic k wheels in a harder green (83a) duro for heavyweight ROY. these wheels are the original krypto formula not the crappy new formula so i think he will still be happy with these wheels after he progresses past the beginner's stage. with these wheels ROY will have no excuse for not being able to slide like DARRYL FREEMAN in those old kryptos ads lol.

hi xy9ine you can probably try out longboarding without an initial capital outlay if you are willing to modify your existing board. the scott oster board was a little wide but still acceptable (a little extra leverage can sometimes come in handy.) you can leave the front truck where it is but just drill some new holes about an inch from the rear of the deck and reposition the back truck. you will need a bunch of wedged risers (or make shims out of cutting board) to dewedge the rear truck back to its original angle. i am guessing that you are probably running indy 166 trucks on that board. although they were originally shortboard trucks i find they are excellent carving trucks if you wedge the front one slightly. leave the back truck flat for lower speed carving and trick sliding or dewedge it if you are interested in mainly high speed downhilling. i have a newer and narrower (single kick) dogtown DYLAN WALSH board that i modified into a combination small wheelbased downhill board / bigger course hybrid slalom / smaller course gs board. the final wheelbase is about 20 inches which makes it very versatile. here are some pics you can use as a guide: wish i knew you wanted a hellcat as i gave mine away last year to anna o’neill the young calgary racer since i never really got dialed in to the short wheelbase. i’ve got quite a few other RAYNE boards that you can try out if you want. probably better to give GRAHAM BUKSA (RAYNE principal) a phonecall as i am sure he has the latest models set up for demos at his shop (he has since moved the shop to the north shore from east van.) p.s. mention that you do the same type of snowboarding as i do and that you want a skateboard that is designed to do the same thing on pavement as on snow. p.p.s. on second thought since i am the only alpine snowboarder GRAHAM has probably ever seen maybe you shouldn’t mention me at all since he will then set you up with a skateboard that carves like a TERMINALLY INTERMEDIATE HARDBOOTER lol.

hi BLUEB i’ve got a landyachtz wedgeflex you can have for free. i rarely ride it as i am not a big fan of flexy boards. the wedgeflex will give you a similar ride to the loaded pintails. i’ll set it up with a randal r2 on the front and a traditional indy or tracker style truck on the back. bomberonline member GECKO should be able to explain why you want a traditional kingpin truck instead of a reverse kingpin in the rear—if you want a second opinion then ask him. you can have basically any wheel you want as i’ve got so many lightly used sets in my quiver that i won’t really miss any. kryptos, flashbacks, grippins, gumballs, zigzags, flywheels, cambrias, avalons, avilas, hawgs, manx…too many to list lol. I’m slowly getting over a hard 60 kph headon with a haybale I took at paskapoo and will phone you up for some skating this weekend. I can bring the wedgeflex to you then

some of the skaters on b.o.l. might enjoy seeing some photos of the paskapoo dh that took place this past weekend in calgary alberta. please excuse my poor photography skills and cheap camera. http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/hh182/tenorman_bucket/pask2009race/

hi TEX1230 you are actually more correct than you know. one of malcolm x's nicknames was RED because of his reddish hair. his mom was a redhead of scottish ethnicity.

hi DAVE upz has a big sale right now: http://www.upzboots.com/pricelist.html DAN YOJA emailed me back and said stuff was selling fast and couldn't guarantee holding stuff for me until i passed through on the way to the vernon dh skateboard race on june 13th. i just sent him payment a few hours ago with instructions not to ship the boots but to just hold a pair of size 26 for me until i can stop by on my way to vernon on june 13th. hopefully when i pick them up there will be at least one pair of size 27 remaining unsold so i can try both sizes on and take the one that fits best. otherwise, i'll have to pay a bootfitter to punch out the size 26 boots or amputate my longest toes if the size 26 prove to be too small. the new style stock upz liner looks interesting with the flow around filler material. looks like i'll be able to downsize without resorting to a thermal liner with an inadequate cuff.

hi ONDREJ the entire vancouver crew enjoyed riding with you at blackcomb this sunday. we were all impressed with your riding skill. thanks for your thorough explanation of your upz rc10 boots to me during our long chairlift rides. i was undecided between rc10 and deeluxe 700 so after talking to you i decided to go with upz. i just emailed DAN YOJA last night and asked to buy the same boot and tongues that you have. i am going to stop over in OSOYOOS on my way to the vernon dh skateboard race on june 13th to try on the boots as i am thinking i maybe able to downsize to a pair of mondo 26.5 from mondo 27 with the new school low volume self adjusting upz liners. this way i can avoid the return shipping charges if i buy the wrong size. here’s the link to the vernon dh race for more information if your are interested: http://www.vernondh.com/Home.html if you aren’t doing anything on the june 13th weekend you may wish to catch a ride in my car to watch the race in vernon. it’s a long 5 hour drive but it is a hassle to fly with my dog and driving in the okanagan is quite scenic. i intend to stay at the BAVARIAN GUESTHOUSE again as they allow dogs in certain rooms. you can stay with me (i’ll cover your bill) or you may choose to stay in the racers’ camp as i am sure i can find you tent space with one of my much younger racer friends. just be forewarned that you may have to share tent space with GIRLS IN THEIR LATE TEENS TO EARLY TWENTIES with their annoying habits of partying far into the night and making sleep all but impossible. the vernon dh race is organized by my friend MISCHO ERBAN who is also fellow countryman of yours. not only will you enjoy seeing the similarities between dh skateboarding and alpine snowboarding but you will probably have a lot in common with MISCHO (he is about your age) as i think he still travels back frequently to CZECHOSLOVAKIA to visit relatives while skateboard racing in europe during the summer. if you can’t go, then let me know if you need any spare parts for your boots so i can pick them up while i am in OSOYOOS and save you the shipping costs. probably a good idea to buy some extra toe pieces and buckles before you return to CZECHOSLOVAKIA at the end of the summer. later doug p.s. i hope i don’t break my foot during the race then i won’t be able to try on the upz boots lol.

i have to head back out to the valley now and won’t be back in the city until saturday night. can someone phone mr_roboteye in the meantime to tell him about this thread and that i’ve got his ticket covered if he can make it on sunday? otherwise i'll have to try calling him long distance from the valley. thanks doug

not sure what his top end speed is but his average cruising speed is about 32 notes to a single bar. <object width="560" height="340"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIkHn3FKBYY&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></object>