tenorman

hi UR13 i learned a lot from your posts over the years on skateboarding sites. if you are as knowledgeable about snowboarding as skateboarding then bomberonline is lucky to have you among the membership. can you be more specific about the dates you will be snowboarding at whistler? i’ll try to drag mr. roboteye up with me and maybe we could get some riding tips from you. i know mr. roboteye is just as anxious to see a madd 158 as i am. Not too many madd’s in our part of the world. i’m already committed to snowboard this 2nd weekend of february at the special 48 hour madness event at my local mountain (grouse)—last year i had the entire mountain to myself for a couple of hours as all the kids got sleepy at around 3 a.m. and went home. so if you are still in whistler the 3rd and/or 4th weekend of february then i am sure mr. roboteye and i can meet up with you for a few runs (especially if i pay for his lift ticket and buy him lunch lol.) hope to be able to make some turns with you. later, doug p.s. BLUEB and the rest of the vancouver crew, maybe we should bump up the date of our spring whistler get together to end of february?

hi ROY hope you are healing up quickly. i've been on the slopes about 10 times this year since mid january but with the crummy snow i've just been on rock boards. i'm more interested in trying my new speedster than silberfeil--besides i've only got about 6 days on my old silberfeil so i can always get my fix on that while waiting for better snow. looks like we will get a bit of snow for this weekend so i might try out the new speedster on sunday.--hit the groom first thing in the morning before it gets skied out. i called RUWI last week and he seems to be recovering well after his surgery. he is hoping to snowboard again by march. he did try his new silberfeil just before his surgery and said he really liked it. however, due to poor snow coverage he only took one run on it so he still needs to give it a more thorough test. i think he was lucky he didn't hit a rock as i was up that very night and there were a couple of nasty looking rocks poking through on the steeper runs.

hi DAVE R. last year, bomberonline member SNOWCARVER was selling a board with the same topsheet as the 1998 gold medal winning board. here is the link: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=196110#post196110 btw INKAHOLIC's vid only shows the second run. the topsheet is more visible in the first run as it was still sunny and bright with unlimited visibility. the foggy conditions didn't set in until the beginning of the second run. the first run also shows the true highlight of the 1998 olympic's--MARK FAWCETT's broken board. give RUWI or BLUEB a call as i left a copy of the vid for them about a month ago.

hi kex i agree with all the excellent posts above extolling the benefits of tuning but yet you seem unconvinced. however, all the posts concentrated on the performance and safety benefits of tuning but none mentioned the potential cost savings. being an inveterate cheapskate i try to make my equipment last as long as possible. regular waxing actually hardens your base making it more scratch resistant so over the long haul you save money on base repairs and grinds. if you visually inspect your edges regularly, you will see tiny little burrs and scars that accumulate overtime if you don’t remove them regularly. eventually they become case-hardened to the point where a file just skips over them without biting and you will be forced to spend hours with a diamond stone removing the case-hardening before you can even think about using a file to restore the edges. at that point the edges will be too dull for anything except soft snow conditions and even YOU will have to consider sharpening them. it takes less than a minute to run a stone along both base edges and side edges before you put your board away after riding. even if i never hit any rocks or hard ice i still stone the edges as it removes the day’s accumulation of possible case hardening and it can restore the edges to close to its original sharpness. obviously, if conditions are sub-optimal (i.e. ice, rocks etc.) you will have to make more than 1 pass with the daily maintenance stone but even 2 or 3 passes per edge won’t cost you more than 5 minutes a day. it will likely save you from having to pay for expensive stone-grinding of the edges if they get case-hardened to the point where they can’t be easily (or even possible to be) restored by hand. i also wax EVERY time I ride. it may seem expensive but then again I am a cheapskate and want my base to last—i am sure it has saved me money in the long run. there are things to do to mitigate the cost of frequent waxing. the best money saving tip i ever saw was posted on bomberonline about 10 years ago by SEAN MARTIN of DONEK snowboards. if i recall correctly, he posted that he only waxed his entire board about once a year. however, he also posted that he regularly waxed his board on the binding platform area (from a few inches in front of the front binding to a few inches behind the rear binding.) also he said he applied the wax a bit more generously along both edges. his rationale being that the edges and the area between the feet used up the most wax and that little wax was required toward the tip or tail. in addition when he scraped his snowboard he saved the wax scrapings in a pot for future use (or reuse.) he mentioned that in most cases very little gets absorbed and that most of the wax ends up on the floor anyway and that everyone would save their wax scrapings if they ever took the time to calculate how much the stuff costs that ends up in the garbage. KEX, hopefully this appeal to your wallet along with the previous excellent posts about increased performance and safety will cause you to at least reconsider your position on tuning.

hi queequeg just make sure the board is completely dry and clean before repairing. store the board upside down in your warm kitchen for a few days to ensure everything drains out and is as dry as possible. I had some topsheet chip off and my epoxy repair is still holding up after about 6 or 7 years. i just used ordinary epoxy because i had run out of marine epoxy which would have been a better choice but the repair has held up so i didn’t bother redoing it. funny that you should mention j.b. weld as that was the first repair i tried but it flaked off after a few runs. you can just see remnants of black coloured j.b. weld on the nose repair in the first pic. it is more likely user error rather than the unsuitability of j.b. weld that caused the initial repair to fail so judge for yourself. my board sustained both nose and tail damage as I got hit hard from behind which knocked me off the trail and into the trees. . Good luck with your repair. <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cloyal%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt; mso-header-margin:35.4pt; mso-footer-margin:35.4pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026"/> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapelayout v:ext="edit"> <o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1"/> </o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--> <o>:p></o>:p>

i haven't been locally since last tuesday with crucible up at grouse. terrible snowfall we are having this season. probably won't be going locally again until wednesday or thursday. btw just saw your post about the skinny donek. am more interested in getting another 1996 alp 169--are you going to keep yours? i don't need to test ride it as i already have 3 of them and i know how they ride. yeah i managed to wrestle one away from DAVE* lol. i'm not interested in any other year except 1996 when they were symmetrical and sandwich. no cap alps for me thank you. i'll have to try the donek out in good snow--maybe whistler will get late spring snow--if i like the way the skinny donek rides after an hour i'll buy it on the spot. can you wait that long to sell it as i don't like to buy it without giving it a good test as i'm not familiar with doneks.

hi snowghost sorry to revive an old thread but i meandered over here from your bumps drill thread. thanks for updating that for this year btw. those drills helped me immensely last spring. i am sure they will be helpful again this spring. reading through your interesting posts i notice you spending an inordinate amount of time tracking down burton style cants (3 and 4 hole.) have you considered making them yourself? i remember following the instructions posted on bomberonline by KENT SMITH about 10 years ago on making the cants out of urethane (the stuff you get at the hardware store to refinish your hardwood floor or skateboard.) you simply poured the urethane into a can or small pail of a sufficient diameter to support your binding and then tilted it at whatever angle you wanted. i remember i made about 20 of them from a cheap can of staledated urethane i found in the clearout bin that cost about 10 bucks. i think the regular price was only about 25 bucks for fresh unyellowed urethane. essentially less than a dollar apiece. granted they were not nearly as nice as the ones you could buy but you couldn’t beat the price. in addition the burton cants were either 3 or 7 degrees but my homemade cants ranged from 2 degrees to 10 degrees so i was able to experiment. the only drawback was the mess and time consuming labour. you had to fully line the container with saran wrap and then a second layer of wax paper to ensure the cant would not stick to the can and would slide out easily after it hardened. then you had to drill 3 or 4 holes depending on whether or not it was a burton board. you didn’t have to get the shape perfect as you could saw it and drill it with normal blades and drill bits afterwards. sanding was a breeze with the only major obstacle being that you had to grind down the bolts to the proper length as you simply attached your binding with extra long screws through the cant and directly into the inserts. you also had extra flexibility in that you could orient the cant anyway you wanted--traditionally down the centerline or at the binding angle for lift only or whatever just like a td2/td3. i also agreed with your post that the snowboard industry’s decision to discontinue asyms as being purely mercenary and had nothing to do with performance. actually I tried to custom order an asym from PRIOR about 11 years ago but he politely informed me that he didn’t have any molds and started proselytizing about the virtues of symmetrical snowboards. i also emailed COILER about an asym but he never returned my email—probably thought i was a hoax lol. when making TIGHT turns on STEEP slopes i believe ASYMS ARE SUPERIOR TO SYMS if ridden with 45ish degree angles and the proper technique—this is just my PERSONAL opinion so please heed this qualifier and try to refrain from flaming me. i thought a fellow asym aficionado such as you would appreciate seeing pics of my well maintained asym. IT IS NOT FOR SALE. i have never resold any of my boards and if i were forced to at gunpoint this would be the very last board on earth that i would part with (and i have a lot of boards lol.) i hope you enjoy viewing the pics as much as i enjoy riding this board--i am the original owner and have waxed this board every 6 months religiously since 1997 and try not to ride it more than twice a year as it is my last remaining burton fp asym and i hope to make it last as long as possible. this 1997 model year was particularly durable as it is in way better shape than my 1998 model (also not for sale—sorry i know you were looking for a 1998 in the classifieds) and 1999 model. too bad fp asym slalom boards were discontinued in 1999. btw i noticed that you also bought some old symmetrical slalom boards on the classifieds. perhaps i could give you a lead on what maybe an exceptional slalom board. i remember about 10 years ago bomberonline member CHRIS HOUGHTON posting that he had one of IAN HADGKISS’ old 155 cm slalom boards. i have 2 of IAN’S old GS boards and believe they are among the finest prior boards around. maybe it was because IAN actually worked at the factory and snuck some extra care into the building of his boards? bottom line being that they rode way better than the stock priors in my quiver and other prior team boards that my friends have managed to acquire. i only ride them once or twice a year when there is good snow but they are just as good today as when i first bought them over 10 years ago. i would think that CHRIS HOUGHTON’S slalom board would be of similar quality if he still has it. perhaps you could make him an offer (since i do see listings from him on the classifieds upon checking his profile) or find out what he did with it?

hi BLUEB 2000 ultraprime 168 with bomber step-in td2s and blax boots? about my age with gray hair about 6'2", about 220 lbs and wears a briko helmet--right? if it is then i think he's a season passholder up at grouse. he's always with his family so i don't want to monopolize his time but we say hello to each other and i've carved the odd run with him. i think he's one of a crew of about a dozen around the city that carves but chooses not to participate on bomberonline anymore. do you want me to give him your email address or number? btw he rides a sims burner in the mornings before switching to the ultraprime in the afternoons.

sorry to hear about your injury ROY. listen to DAVE R's advice to slide and try to relax (don't tense up.) a lot of times you get lucky and don't hit anything hard like a lift tower. hope to see you on snow in the late spring season up at whistler.

hi BLUEB LUKA is doing a lot better than i would have expected for his first time. looks like a natural to me. it's great that kids have plastic ski boots nowadays. i remember starting on leather ski boots as plastic boots weren't available until 1969. based on what i saw in the short video, soon LUKA will be on a snowboard and carving circles around all of us old guys.

hi MASAHIKO perhaps you should wait until after feb. 16th to take such a drastic step as baseplate scraping and thereby voiding your warranty on all 3 pairs of td3s. maybe the next shipment of td3s have been redesigned and you can exchange some parts? i think with the issues from the stepins the bomber crew is just too busy to do anything for you YET. i am sure they will get right onto the manual binding issues as soon as the stepin problems are resolved. i think there is already a recall of the fintec heels at the moment as i’m typing this. while there is some risk in being an early adopter of a new product model, i don’t think bomber industries is the type of company to just leave you orphaned and/or stranded in the middle of the td3 product development cycle. i can understand your frustration with the OFFCENTRE binding that results from what appears to be only HALF a solution of a scaled down toe bail. perhaps there are already plans for a solution to your CENTERING problem with the small foot toe bail modifications they sent you. it would probably be too expensive to recall the baseplates as it does work for people with bigger feet so maybe there is a heel bail solution that is already in the pipeline. it would seem to make sense that a small footed td3 HEEL bail could be scaled down proportionately to (and perfectly mate with) the pre-existing small footed toe bail for a perfectly centred binding position. probably the best thing to do is just use the one pair of td3s that you modified and leave the other 2 intact or shimming them as you describe above. sorry you are having so much trouble fitting your td3s. try to enjoy your existing useable pair of td3s while you are waiting until february 16th before undertaking any further irreversible warranty voiding modifications. i am sure bomber industries will make it work PROPERLY WITHOUT UNDUE COMPROMISE for you like the reputable company that they are.

hi MASAHIKO this is not important and it doesn’t affect you but i posted my baseplate dimensions incorrectly due to a low priced but faulty digital caliper that i got in hong kong a few weeks ago—i now know it is better to always buy higher priced German or Japanese digital items lol. my baseplate dimensions are actually 118 mm from the closest edges of both holes or 124 mm centre to centre using an old fashioned hand held ruler. the differences are too small to be significant and are still relatively close to your dimensions so i am sure our baseplates are IDENTICAL IN SIZE but in the interest of completeness i am including this information in case subsequent readers of this post wish to check their baseplate dimensions. i will edit the previous post to reflect the corrected dimensions. attached are the new pics using better quality photos. one photo shows the entire measurement and the other 2 are close-ups of the endpoints so people can judge the degree of accuracy for themselves. the important stuff i will put in the following post.

okay i'll bring you the cash after dinner. DONE DEAL!

hi DAVE is this the same board you let me ride up at whistler last year? if so i'll take it! i am assuming the guy mentioned above hasn't made a definite offer and therefore is not lined up before me. just let me know where to bring the cash. btw because of the crummy snow conditions locally which probably won't improve until mid february, i am reluctant to risk hitting a rock on a nice board (in fact i have 3 brand new ones still wrapped in plastic sitting in my closet awaiting better snow coverage lol.) i'll just pay you for the board and you can still try to sell it on ebay--you never know as you might just get a lot of money for it. if it sells just refund my money and if it doesn't sell then give me the board. how's that for a no-risk transaction! if you want to take Boris up on his invitation to ride up at cypress, i'll put aside my differences with cypress and go with you. due to your current situation, i insist on paying for your lift ticket. later doug

hi Boris i thought i would post here to let you know that i left a carving dvd for you with RUWI on the weekend. there's some footage of some guy doing a eurocarve heelside (i think his name was chris appleton.) since you are pretty good at manipulating video files maybe you can send that particular footage to caspercarver as i recall he was asking some questions about pulling out of the heelside earlier to even out his toeside that might be answered by his seeing that footage. i better go over to DaveR's thread and grab that team issue factory prime before somelse does!

EDITED FOR CORRECTED BASEPLATE MEASUREMENTS hi MASAHIKO i don’t have UPZ RC10 boots but i did try to use an old set of 1996 ups mach z boots but they were too short for the td3s. (i haven’t worn them for many years but can’t bear to get rid of them because of their eye pleasing purple colour lol.) in my previous post, my issues arose using a raichle nagano boot (basically a limited edition of the old sb 325 race boot.) you would think that boot sole length should be getting shorter not longer! my friend RUWI seems to think that my issues would disappear if i bought a new set of deeluxe track 700s. i already put in an order for a thermo liner with ANDREA at yyzcanuck but i think i’ll just cancel it and get her to set me an entire pair of new boots instead. Hopefully she can solve the liner situation for me as I had issues in the past with the inadequate cuffs of the tf liners that come stock with those boots. i hope you didn’t void your warranty by scraping down the td3 baseplates. LOWRIDER’s shimming suggestion is actually pretty good. for your future reference you could have used UHMW plastic (cutting board) for shim material as it wouldn’t flex enough to be noticeable especially if you used a thick enough piece unless you didn’t like the extra height or leverage. Here are the photos i promised in my previous post in case you or anyone else wanted to double check their baseplate dimensions. the first photo shows the overlap of the shoulder bolts using MY particular size 27 boots and the second photo shows the a measuring tape between the holes. due to my poor photography skills and cheap camera my clear metric ruler was practically invisible so i used a bright yellow “inches” tape measure. The metric distance between the 2 holes was 118 mm (between the closest facing edges of the holes) or 124 mm (centre to centre.) 118mm is about 4.6 inches as can be roughly discerned by my poor quality photo. btw i tried what i speculated on in paragraph 5 of my previous post of installing the shoulder bolts at an arbitrary angle where the bolt hole wasn’t obscured by the bail blocks and then rotating the baseplate to my desired angle after screwing in the shoulder bolt until it was below the bail block but not so tight that it couldn’t be adjusted. i am happy to report that it worked without scratching the underside of the bail block so it is not a problem as I previously feared. This extra step only adds about 5 seconds to the installation procedure over being able to screw the shoulder bolts in directly at the final binding angle setting. Essentially my problem has now disappeared! please keep us informed of your progress. i know of at least 2 small footed vancouver area carvers who are contemplating buying td3s and are awaiting the final outcome of your predicament with interest. thanks for your continued updates.

hi RDY_2_CARVE i guess you won't like my old (1997 if i recall correctly) bombers either. they were also red but instead of a stainless baseplate with red bail blocks like my current td3s they were red baseplates with stainless bail blocks. too bad the parts aren't interchangeable then i could have an all red pair and an all stainless pair lol.

<link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cloyal%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt; mso-header-margin:35.4pt; mso-footer-margin:35.4pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026"/> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:shapelayout v:ext="edit"> <o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1"/> </o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--> hi MASAHIKO <o>:p> </o>:p> sorry for jumping in late but i haven’t logged onto bomberonline for awhile but just stumbled onto this thread looking for solutions for my relatively minor td3 dilemma. <o>:p> </o>:p> it appears that your baseplate is either off-spec or it is a one-off prototype that somehow slipped through the quality control process. perhaps you could post a picture of the baseplate with a measuring tape showing the actual dimensions between the holes in the baseplate. this way anyone with a problem free fit could be kind enough to check their td3s and report if there is a discrepancy. the info on the bomber website seems to indicate that there is only be ONE size of baseplate with small footed people being required to use a special toe bail and/or clip. however, you are size 26.5 which is near the most common boot size of 27 so you should be close to the flat part of the bell curve. i am puzzled as to why you would not be anywhere close to using the middle of the 3 sets of holes (especially with a recommended deeluxe boot.). <o>:p> </o>:p> could RIVERPIG please post back and tell us if you used the 2 closest (smallest footprint) holes or were you able to use the middle holes as would be expected with your size 26.5 deeluxes? If you were indeed able to use the middle holes then could you also measure the distances between the holes? i know it is an imposition but it would really help MASAHIKO and me out. <o>:p> </o>:p> i have size 27 boots and i barely got my td3s to fit using the closest of the 3 sets of holes. since size 27 is the most popular boot size plus the fact that i would think that feet size would be a classic gaussian/bell distribution with the mean equal to or at least very close to the median (assuming the distribution of hardbooters is also normal.) i also expected to be using the middle sets of holes. That plus the fact that my td3s were shipped with the bail blocks in the furthest holes (not the middle holes as stated in post #8 by FIN) makes me think we (MASAHIKO and i) may have been accidentally shipped some prototypes for big footed riders. or perhaps off-spec baseplates or our boots are off-spec? <o>:p> </o>:p> i can’t post pics tonight as my stuff is already packed for an early morning trip to the ski hill tomorrow to show bomber member RUWI the td3s and it’s too late to cancel the trip. i’ll post pics of my dismantled td3 baseplate with a measuring tape showing the hole distances as well as an already mounted binding with an attached size 27 boot using the closest of the 3 sets of holes (smallest footprint) after I use the td3s once more over the weekend as it is a hassle to mount them. the bail block overlaps the shoulder bolt hole requiring me to remove the bail blocks to insert the shoulder bolts. i haven’t tried just mounting the shoulder bolts by rotating the baseplate (with bail blocks attached) to expose the shoulder bolt holes and and then inserting and partially tightening the shoulder bolts below the level of the bail blocks and then rotating the baseplate to my desired binding angle and then resuming the final tightening of the shoulder bolts. luckily the bail blocks do not cover enough of the shoulder bolt to prevent me from inserting the allen key—otherwise i wouldn’t even be able to try this option in the future or even check the tightness of the shoulder bolts (without the hassle of removing the bail blocks) during my ritualistic pre-ride binding inspection. <o>:p> </o>:p> i look forward to your posting of the final solution to your problem MASAHIKO and if i can help you in any way such as comparing dimensions of our baseplates or whatever feel free to post your request on this thread as i will continue to monitor it every few days until your problem is resolved. ANDREA from yyzcanuck is very helpful (and capable) but i didn’t want her to waste her time duplicating your efforts on my behalf so i will just be patient and await your solution before possibly sending her on a wild goose chase since my bindings work extremely well (i can’t be more pleased with the performance of the td3s.) it’s just that i didn’t expect the minor inconvenience of being forced to use the closest holes and the hassle of dealing with the bail blocks hindering easy access to the shoulder bolts. besides my problem pales in comparison to yours and i can easily work around the situation—i could just do nothing and be quite happy but if there is a better way then i am all ears. <o>:p> </o>:p> perhaps you should wait and ensure that my wild guess about an off-spec baseplate is entirely unfounded before you settle for the special toe bail/clip solution as you will then be in the same situation as POINTBREAK of having to deal with the limited “overtravel” of the special clips. he had no choice as he has upz boots but you have the option of using your deeluxes. as i have said before and will say again: i am frequently wrong but never uncertain lol. <o>:p> </o>:p> good luck on finding a speedy resolution as the ride of the td3 is amazing and you need to experience this for yourself as soon as possible.

great video! the old school eurocarving guy in the green jacket even had a PETER BAUER hair style. if he were regular footed, then he could have been a dead ringer. Coloradoking, i don't know the specific title of that song in that specific format but the guitar riff that was sampled was taken from an old JAMES BROWN song called SOUL POWER. i think it charted back in 1971 or 1972. hope that is enough info for you eventually identify the song.

hi mr_roboteye attached are pics of the f2 binding disk mounted onto a 3 hole burton board. you just need 2 large flange washers if you mount near the reference stance or just 1 if you deviate slightly. it is readily apparent upon inspection that this only works if you are near the reference stance because you need the insert(s) to align underneath the large opening that houses the f2 binding faceplate anchor (which is rendered unusable by the large flange washer(s.) the lack of the faceplate just means that the mounting bolts will be exposed and slightly more snow will accumulate--not a big deal. since the disk is mounted slightly off-center you can easily recenter since the f2 toe and heel blocks can be adjusted independently (unlike the single screw adjustment of rental style burton bindings which always keeps the toe and heel pieces centered on the mounting disk.) also note that this "recentering" will shift the f2 binding postion slightly tailward or noseward depending on the original bias (toe or heel) of the mounting disk. the 2 washerless phillips screws can be thought of as forming a diagonal. you can choose a positively sloped or negatively sloped configuration depending on which way you want the binding position to move when finalizing the binding location (of both bindings in terms of width and setback.) it may sound complicated but once you fiddle around with it for a few seconds the optimum configuration will be intuitively obvious. for the benefit of Dave* i have also attached a pic of a trident binding with "primitive" suspension provided by a skateboard bushing. i have lots of unused skateboard bushings you can have if you want to do this with your trident bindings--i know these are your favorite bindings also. oops, i meant second favorite after bombers lol.

hi skategoat Roy is CarvingScooby the quiver builder. that was just ONE of the boards he bought after the lifts closed on sunday. he is to snowboards what imelda marcos is to shoes. </g>

hi guys sorry for the delayed post but my new skateboard and new bicycle arrived within an hour of each other on monday so i had other priorities. first and foremost i hope SKATEGOAT is feeling better. as you say the snow conditions are tricky at whistler as the snow is more like wet concrete than the light fluffy champagne snow in the cascades or the rocky mountains further east. i'm glad you were able to get back out there later on sunday. thanks to mr_roboteye for letting me try his burton team issue factory prime 185. we had a chuckle when looking at the sidewall and noticing that it was indistinguishable from a prior wcr sidewall of similar vintage! the burton team issue rode great (stiffer nose than the wcr but overall a very damp and FAST ride.) if you are ever dumb enough to sell it let me know. like Dave* i had more fun watching all the different (but equally skillful) styles of the crew than i did riding myself. at one end of the spectrum we had the smooth, gentle, carving on eggshells old school race style feathered edge changes (think thomas prugger in super g mode) of mr_roboteye to the quick, abrupt lightning fast edge changes of blueB (think nicholas conte in freecarving mode.) Dave* defies description but at no time did he ever relinquish the sidecut to his snowboard--the most ACTIVE carver i know--Dave* (aka BOARD BENDER) turns when HE wants to turn not when the board wants to turn. i'm not exaggerating--just ask all the whiplash victims on the the chairlift! my highlight of the day was less memorable. i don't recall which run it was on but it was on one of the many fast and steep race course style runs in the orange chair area. i had just crested a steep transition and upon landing i drove hard heelside across the fall line--unfortunately a skier who was behind me decided to straightline it and air off the knoll. luckily he landed before impact otherwise the ski tips would have hit me instead of my boots. one of his skis left an imprint on my rear cant which explains how my rear inserts were stripped. it was sheer drudgery having to snowboard down a steep 40ish degree pitch with only one binding securely attached to the board. luckily i have been skiing since 1962 and was able to "ski" my snowboard back down to the chairlift with only my front foot securely attached. i knew all that hot dogging on the outside edges of my skiis back in the 70's would come in handy one day! btw Dave* i have some spare ballistic nylon pieces you can shoegoo to your threadbare snowboard pants. i've been replacing the ballistic nylon patch on my snowboard pants' heelside hip after every season. i must have extended the life of my pants by at least 5 years by not having to replace them annually like you do. the patched pants can be machine washed in cold water but not machine dried as the shoegoo may melt in a hot dryer. further to Dave* and mr_roboteye's discussion about the wrist protection and abrasion resistance of my unique asymetrical gloves during our pleasant lunchtime conversation in the roundhouse, please see the attached photos. the front hand glove has a removable liner for laundry day with a hard plastic spine from an ordinary rollerblade wristguard duct taped to the outside shell of the glove (the "front" hand you put down on heelsides (protects the wrist when it is bent at 90 degrees)) the back hand glove is a burton RIOT slalom/gatebashing glove with the stock removable plastic armor which can be boiled in water until soft and then molded to the exact shape of your wrist and forearm (the "back" hand you put down on toesides (protects the wrist when it is aligned with the forearm at 180 degrees)) it would have been too time consuming to explain to mr_roboteye how to attach 4 hole f2 bindings onto a 3 hole burton board so i'll post some pics and details next week when i'm not so preoccupied with my new toys. apologies to GTANNER as these aren't the type of pics you want to see but YA SHOUDA BIN THERE.

hi Dave R. agreed. i don't want to risk pulling out an insert with the td1's so i'll just mount my burton race plates on your team issue fp. for your amusement, i'll throw some old f2's and tridents in my car for you in case you want to try them--both are great with burton boards and i think an improvement over the burton raceplates (f2's flex more uniformly while the tridents are all metal but not crazy stiff like bombers or cateks.) also the tridents can be retrofited with skateboard bushings in varying durometers for a truly customized suspension system. i got a td2 suspension system on backorder but i have a feeling it won't be much of an improvement over my ghetto skateboard bushing suspension system lol.

hi Dave R. at least one of us is thinking and being proactive. okay i'll mount the prior wcr 185 with a 4hole 7 degree cant in the back and mount burton rental-style "one screw" adjustment bindings on them so you can dial in as fast as possible. currently the front binding is a catek wc 1p with the toes lifted (and heavily locktited) while the back binding is a td1 (i can't adjust the td1 for lift only so i only use them for canted back bindings! the td1 rear definitely needs to be swapped to avoid a dual cant & binding adjustment but i'll throw the catek front binding in my car in case you want to try it out. just remember that if you adjust it flat you adjust it back to the lift position for me and skin YOUR knuckles tightening them back up! you will have to be well rested to drive the wcr 185 with a non-metal binding on the front foot--you've been warned.

hi mr_robot-eye i always wanted to compare a burton team fp 185 (i assume yours is a 185 since every team issue i've ever seen in the whistler area seems to be a 185) to a prior since they were supposed to have been made by the same guy. i have 2 wcr 185's, one has a 18.0 cm waist and the other has a 19.5 cm waist. which one would be more similar in waist dimension to your fp team? i wanted to make the comparison as "apples to apples" as possible so let me know which waist size to bring. btw i'll throw my size 27 fires in my car just in case of a boot compatibility issue. unfortunately, i am regular footed so it may just be a visual comparison if there isn't enough time to point the bindings in the other direction. i'm going to start the day on my silberfeil 172 and hopefully get some early morning spring ice to test it on. you may try either of my boards if you wish--though you may have to fight boris for the silberfeil. later doug