tenorman

HI C5 GOLFER as promised, here are photos of the FRANKENBIKE i created from used parts from various bikes in my stable. unfortunately, entire gruppos never seem to wear out all at once and sometimes technology moves on and i am stuck with mismatched parts. this bike as it all. cheap campy veloce ergo levers on a shimano XTR rear deraileur. YES--it was a NIGHTMARE changing the spacing in the shimano cassette to match the throw of the campy ergo levers. remember this is old 8 speed stuff which was a lot more durable than later higher numbered cogged cassettes—which is important in a FRANKENBIKE since it is used and abused constantly. the only advantage to 9 speed was that the spacing had narrowed so much that there wasn’t much difference anymore between SHIMANO and CAMPY. i was never a good enough rider to readily notice the slight decrease in shifting performance of mixing up the two companies’ wheels. i remember fixing a flat by mistakenly putting a 9 speed campy wheel on a 9 speed durace bike one sleepy morning. i actually rode it for about 2 hours and didn’t notice until i was wiping my bike down afterwards lol! as you can see from the photos i rarely threw anything away and always tried to use my bike components until they wore out. my snobby friend TYLER always said this bike looked like it was assembled with discarded parts from the junkyard. since i am an inveterate cheapskate i just ignored him lol. believe it or not this bike has been repaired with more makeshift ideas than my DUCT-TAPED snowboard gloves lol! photo of the bike: closeup of the campy veloce ergo levers: closeup of ancient shimano xtr rear derailleur:

HI SUSUN last 2 photos. the front hub. sorry for the poor pic as i originally took the photos of the wrong wheelset just before the batteries in my camera died and then had to rely on my cell phone camera. i double-checked and these are the original hubs from the above gruppo although the rims and spokes have been replaced multiple times. in the crappy photo you can just barely notice the grease fitting in the middle of the hub that was characteristic of all record gruppos. this allowed you to lube your hubs without fiddling around with cone wrenches and skinning your knuckles--eventually this feature trickled down to most of the other gruppos i think: the rear hub. Same crappy quality photo as I took it at the same time as the above photo: i hope i got photos of the entire campy record delta gruppo hung on this particular frameset. if not, omissions will have to wait until summer time when i have more time to spend on bikes. right now it’s still snowboard season! p.s. i forgot to mention in the picture of the frameset in the first post i forgot to mention the press in bottom bracket--you can just lift the bearing seal off like a skateboard bearing. p.p.s. clean with some wd40 and then let it dry COMPLETELY before saturating with a grease gun otherwise residual wd40 will eat away the fresh grease!

HI SUSUN next 3 photos. record chainrings: record cogset: here’s a blast from the past—the scott DROP-IN bars from the early to mid 1990’s lol:

HI SUSUN next 3 photos. these are the record 8 speed ergo levers: here is the crankset. notice there are only 4 spider arms which was unique to the RECORD gruppo at the time. all the other gruppos of that vintage such as chorus, athena etc. had 5 spider arms. shimano never copied this as even their comparable DURACE line had 5 spider arms: because of the oversized seat tube i had to get a 31.6 cm SYNCROS seatpost. i tried to find the original 27ish cm seatpost but i think it was on one of my italian bikes that i gave away to my friend JUSTINE who was a young kid who wanted to try out racing. i don’t she made enough from her cypress mountain ski area job to fund decent race bike lol.

HI SUSUN & C5 GOLFER it was a pleasure to meet both of you last sunday. doubly so when i found out that SUSUN was also a fellow KLEIN road bike owner. although there are newer more cutting edge aluminum bikes on the market i still love my old KLEINS even though i only ride each one for a few days every 4 or 5 years (when i am in a RETRO mood lol) and then completely clean and dismantle them and put them away into storage for another 4 or 5 years. sadly the old technology of the KLEINS is now looked down upon in the same manner by the cycling cognoscenti as BURTON FACTORY PRIMES are by the BOMBERONLINE cognoscenti. SUSUN: here are the photos i promised to post of one of my KLEINS that is the closest model to your QUANTUM. mine is the slightly different QUANTUM II which has the same geometry as yours except for some minor differences (cable routing, seatpost clamp etc.) this particular bike was painted in my favorite shade of red colour and i was heartbroken when it was discontinued by KLEIN and i had to settle for a blue QUANTUM PRO a few years later as i didn’t like the newer shades of red. C5 GOLFER: as promised i have posted some photos of the ancient KLEIN mountain bike that I converted into a dual purpose bad road (26 inch wheels lol) “backup” cyclocross and “backup” tourer. like most KLEIN owners i made my buying decision based on COLOUR lol. i liked this colour so much i had the above bike painted in the exact same colour even though the bikes are of different vintages as can be seen by the different scripts used in the KLEIN logo. because of the 3 photos per post limit you will have to scroll down multiple posts. this is the frameset with the record headset races still attached. notice that the gruppo vintage is matched with the frame spacing of the same vintage. hence i hung this frame from the early to mid 90’s with one of my favorite campy gruppos (RECORD with delta brakes) from that era: to alleviate my safety concerns i swapped out the stock fork for a kestrel carbon fibre fork with a steel steerer. the record headset race is still attached: this is as much of the record delta gruppo as i could reasonably fit into one photo with the limited capacity of my cheap camera and poor photography skills. the only modification pictured is the front deraileur clamp which is a shimano clamp as back then campy didn't have an oversized clamp:

hi ROY looks like hero snow conditions for this coming sunday. i was going to ride the new f2 speedster i got last year since i only rode it once (i spent too much time on all those "new to me" burton factory primes i bought last year.) if everyone else is going to ride metal, i'll reluctantly bring mine out but i think you guys are making a mistake. with glass boards we can pop all over the place! btw looking forward to meeting C5 GOLFER and getting tips from him on how to deal with women.

here's an actual poster outside one of their vancouver branches. it must be the same version you saw. sorry for the crappy cellphone pic.

hi steve i am glad you have your priorities straight. school and work are a lot more important than snowboarding or skating or whatever. there is no stale date on alpine equipment (contrary to what you may read on BOL) so the equipment will just have to sit patiently in your closet until you attend to more important things in life. ignore all your snowboarding friend’s appeals to get you back on the slopes prematurely. only YOU know what YOU need to do to reestablish equilibrium in your life. if your friends persist or start cajoling you to go boarding with them then they weren’t really your friends anyway so no loss—f*ck ‘em. you may wish to talk to fellow californian PATRICK RIZZO as he was probably in a similar situation as you many years ago. i remember him asking me about whether he should accept an offer to skateboard pro or finish school. i am glad that he decided (solely on his own since i am a terrible advice giver) to finish school or in his own words to TAKE CARE OF BUSINESS FIRST before embarking on the skateboarding gig. he definitely made the right decision and i am really proud of him for being disciplined enough to do what was probably unpopular with his friends but necessary. he would probably be the best person to seek guidance from if you need to however i don’t think it is necessary as, judging by your previous post, that you probably already have your priorities straight. take as much time off from snowboarding as you need and i look forward to your update(s) on bomberonline next year or the year after or whenever you are ready. good luck. your friend, doug

hi skategoat BUELL basically gave you all the info you need but the newer f2 titaniums have extra pieces. don’t know if this affects you but they now come with rubber protectors that fit like booties on the toe and heel sections of the baseplate. see the attached photo of the new set of f2 bindings that i just bought from the PRIOR shop in whistler last sunday. you can see the 4 (2 toes and 2 heels) rubber protectors at the very bottom of the photo. the white piece of paper with pics of the rubber protectors is actually a disclaimer from f2 that you must use these rubber pieces or you may void your warranty if you damage your f2 board. my guess is this probably arose from all the metal boards being used nowadays—you will have to contact f2 to see whether my guess is correct or not. the 4 cant pieces mentioned by BUELL were already installed on the bindings when i got them so they are not clearly visible in the photo. see the second photo of the end of the binding which shows the installed cant piece. it appears that f2 now ships their new bindings “pre-canted” like the snowpros. the only difference being that the new snowpros have canted heel and toe blocks (angled WITHOUT using a cant piece) while the f2’s have level heel and toe blocks (angled WITH a cant piece.) the big heel lift and corresponding big toe lift (as described by BUELL) is in the binding box which came packed together with 3 black coloured screws (2 long and 1 short) in the yellow plastic bag at the bottom edge of the box. not to be confused with the small bag of silver coloured screws which are the mounting screws. the newer lifts are now shaped like the cant pieces except they are level instead of angled and are not nearly as tall as the old school f2 toe and heel blocks. my guess is it is probably a reflection of the fact that boards are now wider and people are riding with lower angles. in the interest of completeness the rest of the stuff in the photo is as follows: warranty booklet, instruction booklet, soft foam stomp pad and leash. btw big thanks to BUELL for his thorough assessment of the sidewinders from a light weight rider’s perspective here: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28233 as i was having trouble deciding whether to buy the f2’s or the sidewinders.

hi PATMOORE good observation. i have the opposite problem in that i am old school and tend to favour turning with the outside ski even when using shaped skis. i keep seeing all the young kids turning with both skis nowadays and am envious of their ability to also carve the inside ski. maybe a drill for this year would be to turn only on my inside ski to try and bring my ski skills up to par lol.

hi SKATEGOAT i'll check in the barn when i head back out to the valley tomorrow as i remember getting about 5 or 6 of them from the salesman when i bought my mom a saturn for her birthday a few years ago. the only problem is they have a saturn logo painted on them not the olympic logo. i'll leave whatever i find with BORIS since he knows you. i was gonna throw them out anyway.

hi PHIL i imagine they must be. back in the late 80's before the shaped ski era with all the additional fancy all mountain categories i just off-piste skied in my slightly detuned ATOMIC ARC 185 SL skis. btw LINDSAY VONN is my favourite u.s. skier.

too bad i didn't see this poll earlier otherwise i would have cast my vote for ms. SHARAPOVA. i actually saw her in the airport when i visited a friend in tampa a few years ago. i've always had a weakness for tall women and her amazonian 6ft3 height only added to her desirability. i only glimpsed at her for a few seconds but was struck by what a great smile she had. her smile made me wish i was taller, younger, richer, better looking and simultaneously assured me that i was NONE OF THE ABOVE.

hi BJVIRCKS the burton hardboot tool (out of production for about 8 years) is specifically made for this purpose. the screwdriver part of the tool had a narrower spindle than the head so the spindle would not rub against the super tight opening in the boot through which you adjusted the spring. i'm in the city right now and left the tool out in the valley so i will try to post up a picture of the tool in a few weeks unless someone else has one and can do it for me. BORIS actually used this tool to adjust Steve D.'s boot so maybe he could suggest a good alternative since he seems to know more about tools than TIM ALLEN.

hi STEVE i forgot to send you the manual for the td3 bindings. quicker to post a scan of it than to send it. talk to you again in a few weeks.

hi STEVE been busy the last week and didn’t realize your stuff was delivered last tuesday. sorry for the delay in getting this info to you. canada post estimated 12 day delivery during the busy xmas season—who would have thunk they would do it in 5 days! i am going to be away for a few more weeks so this will be a long winded post as i am trying to anticipate all the possible questions that may arise after you unpack and inspect the stuff. hope it all arrived intact lol. BINDINGS: 1. mounted at a 19.75 inch stance width which BORIS suggested would be right for someone of your size and probable inseam. btw the cants are 3 degree front and 6 degree rear—most downhill skateboarders will favour this canting configuration as it mimics a sweeping turn while remaining in full tuck on a dh skateboard. from watching you skate i think you are athletic enough to start off with this canting configuration from the get go instead of going through the intermediate step of 0/3 or 3/3. 2. angles were 65/60 which we measured to be the minimum to ensure zero boot drag. luckily the 94/95 burton reactors had a shorter clamp distance than the new deeluxe otherwise you may have been forced to use even higher angles due to your big feet. beginners should start with lift only but you have a slight 5 degree inward (traditional) cant on both feet (70/65) because we originally thought the bindings needed to be at 70/65 to ensure zero boot drag but when we backed down the angles (after doing the tilt the board on edge test) we forgot to change the cant angles. BORIS didn’t think you will notice the slight difference—besides we were rushing to get to the post office before it closed. in fact BORIS had to carry the package out to the mail truck to ensure it didn’t get left for the next day’s pickup! you probably won’t know if you are a traditional (inward) canter or non-traditional (outward) canter or zero canter (lift only) until you ride for a few weeks so you might as well just leave the cants in the position BORIS and i randomly picked as a starting point. 3. the only concession to flex in your total carving system is the soft yellow elastomers. the yellows will be good at the beginning stages and will make learning easier. you may wish to get stiffer elastomers next year when you get more experience. however, a lot of heavy guys such as local vancouver rider DAVE* (230 pounds) deliberately choose the soft yellow elastomers so it could be that you will not be swapping them out in the future if you like the ride of the soft yellows. BOOTS: 1. your burton reactors are the 94/95 model. this was before the introduction of the FURNACE (predecessor to the FIRE) so at the time your reactors were the stiffest race boot in burton’s line. they appeared to have been used very little. BORIS thinks the seller broke the anchor pin in the lean mechanism during the first month of use and then never used the boots again. even the toe and heel ledges show little signs of use—in fact the only visible markings are from the td3 bindings when we were adjusting them for you. these boots were a great find. the boots are clearly the best component of your carving system as the quality and function of the boots surpass the td3 bindings and the wcr board in my opinion. if they fit i think you will not want to upgrade your boots anytime soon. burton reactors from 94 to 96 were of much higher build quality than the newer reactors (predecessor to the WIND.) in any case, if you wanted to get current era boots only the open throat designs are still available (deeluxe and upz.) many current riders are still crying about the unavailability of the old burton overlap design. lots of riders have been able to exploit what was originally thought to be a flaw with the burton design (the “shearing” of the overlap tongue) to their advantage. my fervent wish is that a current boot manufacturer will stumble upon the long lost burton boot molds and start reproducing them again. however, i am lucky in that i do have 8 pairs of brand new burton boots (1 reactor, 3 furnace, 2 winds and 2 fire) still in the box in addition to the new pair of 96/97 furnace (my all time favorite burton boot) that i just started using last year which only have about 30 days on them. safe to say that with a total of 9 pairs (1 currently being used and 8 unused still in the box) i have a lifetime supply of burton boots lol! BORIS was stunned to see my new (worn once to have the bootfitter punch out the toe) 12 year old furnace boots when i brought them over to his garage 2 summers ago to have him help me deliberately strip off the cant adjuster and replace it with my own homemade version. the boots looked immaculate except for a thin covering of fine grayish coloured powder that somehow developed despite the boots sitting in the box in a dark closet for about a dozen years. the medial adjuster is the only problem area with burton boots but it only affects riders with torquey riding styles. you may not have problems with it but if you do let me know and i will post instructions on how to fix it (you will need a new screw, t-nut, hacksaw and lots of duct tape.) 2. i don’t have time to look for the original instruction manual but if i have time to find it (probably after the season) i will send it to you. i had the exact same pair of boots (in a smaller size 27) back in the day so i remember how they were adjusted. the liners have a genuine leather cuff so you should treat it with SNOSEAL or some other leather protector periodically. also, all snowboard boots come with crappy footbeds that you should immediately throw out. BORIS did you a favor and dumped them in the garbage for you so remember to put the footbeds from your softboots in them before you use them. the 94/95 reactors were a bootfitter’s dream. they came with a removable plastic soleplate that is purposely made as thick as possible so you could grind it down incrementally to ensure you got the snuggest fit possible. when i examined the soleplates i noticed they were NEVER ground—either the seller had a small volume foot or he was ignorant of this procedure! also the high quality stock liner can be trimmed if the fit is too tight. subsequent reactor liners in later years got replaced by a cheap untrimmable cardboard like liner and had the leather cuff replaced by a synthetic felt like material. the v-shaped heel hold pieces can be repositioned. i always glued and duct taped mine in place after finalizing their positions through trial and error—people with thick ankles often don’t need them at all. your leather liners appear to be nearly unused so they have not packed in yet so ride for a while and let them pack in on their own before you start making too many irreversible bootfitting adjustments. your boots may feel tight initially because they were never worn enough to be packed in—essentially they are like new boots in terms of fit. amazing for a pair of boots that are almost as old as you are lol. you could replace the old liners with a newer thermoflex liner but you would lose all the power that you could generate from the leather cuffs of the original liner. My suggestion is that you only upgrade to a thermo liner as a last resort since these old school (before 1996) burton liners (unlike the newer burton liners which were total crap) were so “fit-able.” is that a word? 3. in addition to the medial cant adjustment which should be obvious upon inspection there are 2 other not so apparent adjustments behind the forward lean mechanism. the following instructions are just for the older reactors (yours) as the lean mechanism was redesigned in the 97/98 model year (incidentally 97/98 was the final production year for reactors.) see the attached photo of a similar boot (a 96/97 FURNACE which is one of the boots i am currently using) which has a similar lean mechanism (i gave away my 94/95 reactors to ANDY BONIFACE the snowboard director at MOUNT SEYMOUR so we know the name of at least one source of potential parts lol.) the nut-like dial at the top of the lean mechanism controls the amount of dampening for your forward flex. turn the dial (with a stiff flathead screwdriver) to the left (clockwise) to decrease dampening (i.e. compress the spring to make it stiffer) and vice versa. basically you would turn it to the left (compress the spring) for hard charging race style riding and turn it to the right (decompress the spring) for powder and relaxed freecarving. the screw-like dial at the bottom of the lean mechanism is for fine tuning the forward lean. turn the dial to the left (clockwise) to decrease forward lean and vice versa. the range of adjustment is 10 degrees. this is in addition to the 2 presets in the forward lean mechanism of 15 and 25 degrees. therefore, your maximum is 25 and 35 degrees if you want to utilize the available 10 degrees in both presets. generally you ride with more forward lean on the rear boot than the front boot. play around with it to determine YOUR personal preferences. btw in addition to ANDY BONIFACE, another source of possible repair parts for your boots would be CHRIS PRIOR as i remember seeing him still riding the 94/95 reactors as late as the 97/98 season—if the boots were good enough for PRIOR they are certainly good enough for you. hopefully the size of the parts aren’t different across the different sizes of boots as both ANDY and PRIOR both wore mondo 27 in that particular boot. BOARD: 1. ready to ride—all you have to do is to scrape off the storage wax. remember to remove the wax from the edges! 2. BORIS was initially concerned that a stiff narrow raceboard was too overpowering for a newb and suggested that i send you one of my softer wider waisted 4wd boards but i assured him that, judging by the way you skate, you would not be happy unless you could experience the same G forces that you routinely pull on your dh skateboard. this would only be possible on a stiff raceboard and i assured BORIS that you were athletic enough to skip the intermediate step of learning on a wider softer freecarve board. even if you did start on a freecarve board you would soon be outperforming it so you might as well be on the raceboard from the get go. hopefully this is enough info for the time being as you are probably still busy with you winter semester exams at school. i will not be home much until the last week of december so i will have to impose on BORIS (again) to answer any questions you may have in the meantime.

hi STEVE i just emailed you your tracking number. we made the canada post deadline with 4 days to spare! the boots were a real adventure to acquire and required the expertise of BORIS to work his magic. they are burton reactors size 30 (fits 30.0 to 30.5) and were in really good shape--after BORIS fixed them up in his garage. i will be quite busy the next few days and will post more info for you next week. please ask BORIS if you need any further info in the meantime. thanks to ROY for rooting out the lead on the boots at the last minute. later doug

hi ROY thanks for the lead. i emailed the guy about buying them and have yet to hear back so maybe he'll respond tomorrow morning. they are 94/95 burtons so they may not fit as all the shell sizes were reduced the following year in 96/97 and remained the same until burton got out of alpine. the present day deeluxe paradoxically have a longer clamp distance than the old ones for some strange reason--probably has to do with them having to elongate the sole to accommodate the intec heels. since the burton soles are shorter than the new deeluxe i am hoping the older burton soles are in between the 2. at a maximum equal to the new deeluxe sole length. otherwise the search continues. keep your fingers crossed. bomberonline is timing out and loading real slow tonight so i will respond to the rest of the posters tomorrow when the site speeds up. thanks everyone for your continued efforts in this matter.

hi RKYMTN too much of a nobody to be a big shot sponsor—just trying to help out my friend STEVE a little. i already informed STEVE that his wcr board and td3 bindings would be shipped this saturday. since FATMARMOT already sold the boots to someone else, STEVE is still trying to buy a pair of boots. is it possible for you to post the boots that you are selling? it would be easier than playing email tag with about a dozen players as BORIS and the rest of us vancouver guys are still actively hunting down boot leads. STEVE is doing the same in the greater los angeles area thanks.

appreciate the quick update. the search continues.

hi RKYMTN thanks for helping young STEVE D. out. i am already sending him a board and a set of bindings but if he likes your stuff better then tell him i will pay for it since he is on a tight student budget. thanks doug

hi FATMARMONT please contact bomberonline member STEVE D. for his zipcode and them give him the total amount to send you. tell him i will pay for these boots if he wants them. he is located in california. here's his thread: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26668 thanks doug

hi STEVE were you able to take advantage of bomberonline member RKYMTN’s kind offer of assistance? if not then read on. with your footsize of 30.2 cm you are technically a size 30 in a raichle/deeluxe. you can probably downsize to size 29 without too much PAIN but you won’t really know until you ride with a size 30 for a while. i suggest you just buy bomberonline member FATMARMONT’s bargain priced boots to use primarily as a measuring device and secondarily as a starter boot. it is only 30 bucks (shipping extra of course) and since he is located in the next state it is cheaper for him to ship directly to you. since i am sending you a stiff wcr board and stiff td3 bindings, you will probably want (most likely NEED) some flex as a beginner. the only place to do this in your total “carving system” is in your boots. although the raichle 124 boot only has 3 buckles, it does have a power strap and a fairly high cuff for a 3 buckle model. it was the stiffest of the 3 buckle raichles in that series (the 122, 123 and 124--the higher the number the stiffer if i recall correctly.) in other words, if you cinch up the power strap it is probably just as stiff as most flexier 4 buckle models. later when you get better, you can upgrade to a stiffer 4 buckle boot. here is FATMARMOT’s size 30 raichle 124 boots ad: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=27038&highlight=size please email BORIS (BlueB) your shipping info and ask BORIS to forward your email to me. that way we can exchange email address without my activating my email on bomberonline—i get too much email as it is lol. saturday is the only mutually convenient day for BORIS and me so please email us the shipping info ASAP. i need BORIS’ help as i have never shipped a board before and don’t want to cause a delay by screwing up since the CANADA POST deadline is DECEMBER 1 to ensure delivery before your xmas holidays from school. btw keep your boot receipt and any other out of pocket shipping expenses you may incur and i will reimburse you for them. keep your original 300-500 dollar budget for your school expenses.

hi BUELL i agree with everything you have posted on this thread. all my friends tell me i have a good memory and i am also pretty sure that i can rewrite MR. MICHAUD’s original post WORD FOR WORD. normally, i like to mind my own business and don’t like to stir the pot UNLESS ABOLUTELY NECESSARY. however, you don’t need any help since you have clearly won this argument and i will remain silent unless someone disputes your recollection of the original post. coincidentally (or not) the SOFTENED quote may or may not have been ordered by FIN DOYLE. it sounds like a reworking of MR. DOYLE’s old post about putting HIGH PERFORMANCE TIRES ON A MODEL T FORD on bomberonline about 10 years ago lol. i better shut up before i sound like an old man with an axe to grind. before anyone gets bent outa shape i am posting the above all in good fun in an attempt to lighten the mood of this post that is quickly turning south. however, if anyone thinks I am just sh*t disturbing then you have my permission to ask a moderator to delete my post. in the words of a former bomberonline member: HAVE GOOD RUNS

don’t know if i am outside the sample space or not but i only had a bail break when i was on my skwal. both times on burton raceplates and always thought it was due to the extremely high binding angles (about 80 degrees.) never broke a bail while on a snowboard but did pull out the rear foot inserts 3 times—always while using td1’s. the 3 boards were a rossi throttle, a nitro scorpion and a sims premium. despite all the close calls i had many years ago i guess i would be part of group 1 (never released)—and that was how i voted. i will change my vote if i have misunderstood the question. btw PHILW i was going to give my old raichle naganos (similar to late model 225/older model 325) that only have about 20 days on them to my friend’s son who wants to try hardbooting this year. one (of many) reasons i stopped using those boots was getting spooked by your post on bomberonline about 10 years ago where you posted about how you severely messed up your ankle when the cant(s) blew out on your raichle 225s. if i recall correctly you had the blue ones with red tongues and i think you said the cant(s) that blew out was(were) gray coloured. did you subsequently use those boots again? did you suffer any further mishaps? sorry to bring up an old topic but i never stuck around bomberonline long enough to find out if you ever got those boots working again.