nils

Hello Barry, Since almost no ones rides plates on Swoards, It will be nice to have your feedback on that once you try on both flexs you have too ! Would like to hear your feedback! ( I hated the extra weight and raised position :). Thnx ! Nils

Barry, dont forget the board works also well without any structure done on the base. We found out when using the electra 4000 than broken sandbelt gave the best versatile result. Some riders I know don't even wax them and it still works ok! ( gen 5 is some other brand but similar high density carbon charged base) Suction areas appear on some boards in a batch for an unknown reason...it is not systematic strangely. I have had boards with the same core and laminate complex and same batch with small suction areas, and others you could over tighten bindings and nothing would appear..not sure why! Nils

Eric, You are right: it is not impossible to do laid out turns on smaller radii (ECers can turn a frontside in a 3m radius on an EC board ), but the problem is that everything goes much quicker the tighter the radius is( same applies to hardboot SL short boards) and as we see on the softboot vids, they are not snap turns full power turns because the boards are not meant to resist the high nose/tail pressure like SL boards... So basically softbooters have to deal with slower turns, mid size radius, on boards that have no power grip at tips and that explains the difficulty..especially duck stance!

Petr style is also fluid, no duck stance thu...but I guess if he got to try he could do it.. One of the main issue of the softbooters is that they often ride boards with too small radii, making the arc too tight for proper EC. Even the Dual has a too narrow radius for perfect EC. Nils

Gotcha sorry misundersood your words > agreed!

Yes the .900/950 have a modifiable lateral canting with an "eccentric" part that acts as hinge on the other side of the pic I took, but it is a very small angle choice if I recall .Will try to take a picture of mine but am not sure you can get better than 1° in each direction laterally. Will also measure distances on my 28.5 asap. Thnx for the Look Integral reference! I remember using them as a kid on rental skiis! The low profile bindings were cool but i remember when lots of frozen snow stuck there, it was a pain in the ... to be able to lock in again > you could not see under your boot to see if snow was stuck..Also they were VERY slippery, and you could not walk steep hard snow with them ( no rubber sole) ( pics from a cool ski forum).

Here is pics showing how my 2002 boots look like...some seasons with 30 days on them, some with only 15..at least they last! TD3 pic showing how small the footprint is on a 28.5 mondo ( D shell) > I remember on the TD2 it was an issue because people with smaller sizes could not narrow the binding enough for beeing able to close them. It does not feel like its a biased way to shorten things..just a smart way to do it! Only other way around would be like the concept of short boots there was in the ski industry around 1985...forgot the exact name but the idea was to have one size fits all sole length, with the boot overhanging each sole depending on its size ( maybe someone recalls them.?) Am not sure they are rebuilding it similar just for hype...but at least to build something that is working at first...the mold cost is in the 300 K range I am sure, so if it was me, I would first spend on reliable/proven, then go from there if it works and make new molds with intec style heel for example.

You can adjust the flex to some extend with the springs like we do in EC on the .900 ( some topics dedicated to the spring choice on EC forum)...but don't expect miracles: the idea is to use 80% of control by the spring, and the rest is by the tongue and the flex of the plastic: The .950 is to me and many EC crew's opinion too stiff for freecarving, so I assume the .951 will be to some extend if it recreates the same boot...I recommend anyway trying the boots for those who never had the chance to ride the first generation ( especially those in the US where the boot was barely sold/seen): the design is truely well thought and the boot is a different ride: the sole is very short and can also expect to lower riding angles by a few especially on wider boards without overhanging...Maybe Bomber will be able to get demo pairs quickly? Lets hope this is a success so they can propose a softer plastic shell version ( .901) that will be better for freecarving and freeriding. One thing about the price: it is expensive, but the solidity is extreme and my .900 are riding each season since 2002 and despite change of 2 buckles are almost new!...So if taken into account it puts the price to a normal level i guess ( how many boards/bindings have you spent money on in 15 years?). Price of the old ones will fall down soon...so its time for selling them oldies ;)

Go the AT way..TLT's are ok for long walks if you open them enough. AT boots with vibram like soles will be 200% better than any hardboot made for snowboarding in the walk mode anyway...and the weight is ok too! ( btw I have seen the new arcteryx, seems well done for AT but also very narrow and fragile..am not sure it is as strong as the TLT in the long run.

I have been lucky to ride a few runs with a Pogo Shaman some years ago at La Grave in great snow conditions: It is the board with the best surfy feeling i ever tried. It is intended to be ridden in softboots, and I could see my hardboots setup was a bit too locked for it ( compare to the swellpaniks that are good in both, and have a more powerful ride feel). Great board ! The copper nose guard was not my fav part ( looked cheaply done) but I guess you can use the board without it ( as with all the other boards) nils

Interesting topic, I remember that Jacques (Rilliet) idea behind widening the wild duck knifer shape in the late 90's to 23.5cm went along with the idea of softer flex, and controlling the torsion so the soft flex would not make a spaghetto like board. He optimized the width of the Extremecarver to suit his riding technique/ feet length and get the best compromise of width / boot angle/ power in order to ride near vertical * on the snow at the apex of the turns with more power than he had on narrower boards. ( * remember Jacques even sanded, polished and waxed his sidewalls ;)) It felt to me awkward at once coming from an oxygen proton at 19 something width to my first 175cm Swoard, but after understanding the required technique adaptation and other mods ( no canting, no lift, looser bindings) I found it way more comfy than what I was used to have on higher angulation boards. Yes wider means no quick edge to edge change, but it gives more power with less effort and allows longer feet to have less angles...It would be interesting to try the same shape with 24.5 or 25cm width..would become less agile, and less versatile thu...

I did punch out mine for the shell is too narrow at my ankles, and also one shell was not long enough and had to punch it out a few mm..injected sidas liners solved the last comfort issue. Wearing them feels now like am in slippers comfort wise...

In Europe seems everyone also uses backside frontside...untranslated, because we happen not to be able in french for example to use easily the translation from toeside heelside that would be: "sur le coté des orteils" and "sur le coté des talons" ( same goes for Poop and Pee side :)) ;) N

funny because the text saying corduroy riding is lame is totally against today's carving trend in softboot world... mags content is 100% dictated by what sponsors want...sponsors have decided they will use carving as this year and next year's hype thing...until next trend arrives we'll see corduroy riding with ugly backsides ( toilet style).. N

check out the first tutorials we put up on www.extremecarving.com in 2002..Basically the same stuff, just not linked into one video ( maybe Patrice will do that?)...all the other EC vids are taken from those ones.. Nils

yes, the issue seems to be for 3-4 parts splitboards, because then you have 3 pucks and cannot trim them enough ( you still need some plastic on the angles of the outside pucks. Here is a pic explaining the issue with my modified pucks. You do need at least 15mm of plastic on the outer angles of the pucks..I chose to stay below 35° so I could keep having a bit more plastic. The more plastic you have guiding the biding, the stiffer the system is and the least play it takes under work load. As you can see, the central part overlaps the sides by a mere 4-5mm and helps keeping the parts together...but basically its the binding that keeps everything together, not the pucks, not the plum connectors or karakoram tips or custom tail part. If one would go over 35°, then the 18mm would reduce to a single point of contact, making the assembly less safer. I guess this is the limit of this technology for higher angles on 3-4 parts boards. This is why it seems the phantom system seems interesting providing they modify it for higher angles. Nils

thnx indeed...that is why my pucks are a bit better for now ( can go up to 35-37 i think) The front piece does not need a releasable binding such as the dynafit indeed: its heavy and takes up too much room...Lightest is the Gignoux ( ultimate 2 the lightest for real) or that of an italian maker ( forgot the name) that is around 30 grams.. Rangers are a bit heavier but more solid..

yes got the holes for slits idea...thnx Roro! Question regarding the Phantoms I could not find on the website > with my modified pucks, I have something like 35° angle possible with my Dyno HD > how far in angles can you go with the phantoms? something to note: with high angles 35/20° on a swallowtail 3-4 parts is the back binding is not holding the parts as well as with zero or duck angles...this is why am working on a lockable assembly tail part ( the karaokam plastic sliders are just here for holding the tips, but they do not provide strong assembly.) Nils

thnx Buell very interesting! Questions: - is the buckle axis point mod possible without a modification kit ( using the original parts of the boots?): Can i just unscrew, set connector further back and that is it?. - not sure how drilling holes will modify dampening...it will lighten the boot by small margins but dampening? - can u compare the slits mod with a non slitted boot and explain if it does really modify lateral flex.. not sure am ready to cut slits before knowing it works! Thnx :) Nils

Hey..I have no idea what the board is like in real...Pierre Gignoux posted them pics on his FB...will ask :) its all custom made by him. I assume the bindings slide onto pucks? we'll see! Pretty impressive...funny because before internet days people could keep doing R&D alone and tech would never be known.. N.

Just for your info: Splitboards is not new stuff...before the Nitro model people like Pierre Gignoux already had something going in '91-'92...funny thing is his front clips look pretty much like the ranger ones I have on my setup! Tail assembly is ridiculously smart too...! 25 years difference and nothing so different! N.

Pretty happy with my setup ( split 4 178cm phénix swallowtail)...Spark Dyno HD / Ranger bails I have heard first feedbacks from the Gignoux not long ago. Pierre Tardivel says they are great, but he is an extreme skiier turned snowboarder and I am not sure he is representative of hardbooting idea of snowboarding ( he switched from softboots directly to the Gignoux ( price tag around 1600 euros but since he doesn't seem to pay for them ( ambassador) its not relevant ). Some friends tried the Gignoux Carbon made for skiing, and told me the comfort is near zero downhill: it is boots designed to win races uphill and the downhill part is secondary ( aka: comfort and insulation)....I have maxed out my uphill to 1300m last winter with TLT6 plastic edition and my setup...yes it is a bit heavy, but comfy as hell and I do get pleasure dowhill.. Last but not least, wouldn't rely on advice from spliboard-power that is ripping things ( ideas, names, website) from Phenix since day one and not even producing himself...will be settled in court soon.. Nils

gotcha thnx! yes crampons are front pointing, ice walk etc... and Harscheisen are the ones you use on skis :)

Feedback after my last two days run with the board around la Meije glacier de la Selle last week after a short 2 month season ( got the board end of feb..) Conditions: high altitude ( 2500-3550m) spring conditions ( very hard morning snow, heavy powder on north faces, melted snow around 1 pm). Total climbed around 1600m+, 3000m- Was glad to have two edges and a sidecut on both sides, and narrow skis to help me climb hard morning snow on exposed slopes, even with knifes under the feet it got hairy and had to switch to crampons in 40° because using knifes and the base canting made it difficult to really grip. I am not sure i'd have liked to be on a two part splitboard with softboots in those conditions! - Board up takes some time to assemble / dissasemble meaning if your partners are skiers, they will have to wait 5 more mins until you are ready, can be long when the chosen route implies 3-4 skin on-off changes. - It is heavier than touring skiis and after long climbs you feel the weight, meaning the rest of the backpack equipment has to be minimal..and your cardio training needs to be better than those on skiis...Altitude is also a big factor, and the extra weight was a burden at 3500m.. As ski alpinist racers say: a kilo in the feet equals 7 kilos in the backpack... - Backpack for two days tour are in the 40-45 liters, and my 38 L light backpack ( blue ice warthog 38L) might be great for carrying skiies ( when using crampons) but was not adapted to the big size of the board ( heavier weight, longer...) and I need to find a way to keep the weight centered and balanced. Now bag has only two straps lines that are very close to each others and board was twisting after a while ( especially on long crampons climb) - Plum Knifes very easy to use on / off without removing boot from binding - Ranger low tech: very efficient, needs proper alignment - Sparks Dyno: no flaws, strong and easy to slide in, just lacks a thicker back bail screw to hold it higher, I used a plastic zip to amplify the angle. I like the design of the Phantom, but thought the price and solid bails ( bombers) were more interesting in the Sparks...I also question the fact that phantom might not be compatible with 3-4 parts splits and still be able to hold the gear together ( that is what the sparks do really: hold the thing solidly together!) - Karakoram tip clips ( plastic) sliders: they tend to move a bit...but hold. I have seen on a track one lost clip from another splitboarder...means the plastic nuts need to be verified, and spare gear might be something to keep in the pocket in case... - Board assembly is fine in almost 99% of the conditions, I have encountered one tail dissasembly in very rough hairy conditions during a turn on frozen snow that was deeply tracked suddenly getting heavy vibrations that disengaged the tail assembly part...the board held thanks to the dyno bindings, but had to dissassemble the whole board to get it back in proper conditions...not very funny thing to do in 40° steeps on a glacier...The guide was like: wtf... - TLT6: the only mod I did is the one improving the forward flex. I don't think the other mods are that important, especially coming from Hardboots where I'm used to stiff boots while riding. I had to get a bootfitter modify the outer shell until my feet were fine in them ( narrow size) but otherwise they are great for us. Conclusion: Heavier setup than skiis, but I'd say with my average physical shape is good for 1000m-1100m+ a day max in average altitudes. Requires training and organisation for the skin on/ skin off so you are able to keep up with partners...in powder definitely a great setup, on difficult snows it is not as easy as with a twin tip but does the job! Board construction is using a mid weight woodcore, and you can gain 500gr using light woods, but will then be more fragile.. N

Many french racers in 1988-89 used SX91 equipe on the front boot, combined with Koflach albona's on the bach foot, or dynafit ski tour boot and races were won. but it was a long time ago. I rode my burton safari II with SX61 and the Albona for a season...well was comfy and precise enough. unless I had no other choice I would not want to do that again. Boards have changed a lot, have much more refined flex patterns and require more subtle setup.. N