Aracan

Something like 42/57 on a wide AM carving board.

It seems that such a camera (or its mount) played in role in Michael Schumacher's skiing accident, so you might be on to something.

The hot spot is somewhat to the rear of the 5th met, and my 1st met is NOT prominent. My feet may be weird, but there are some manners of weirdness they do not feature ;-)

Thank you for your pointers. Since my feet where fine (width-wise) in the stock liners in the same shells, I believe there should be enough room.

I am very happy with my Ruroc and my minivan. Was seriously considering a recumbent bike, but the wife nixed it. Would rather drop dead than wear Crocs, though ;-)

Can anyone offer experience with heatgunning pressure points on already-molded liners? I had mine done by a pro, but they pinch the outsides of my forefeet. Was thinking about bolstering those points on my feet, heatgunning that part of the liner, and buckling down really tight. Would this work? How much heatgunning would be required? Thanks for your inputs.

It also depends on the boot. If I am not mistaken, the center marking on UPZ boots refers to the center between DIN toe and heel pieces. Without those, the center marking gives a pronounced bias toward the toe, because the heel ledge is recessed.

I got hit for the first time two weeks ago. By a moron who bombed into a slope that was not visible from above. Not a chance, although I look uphill better than every second turn.

Too true. There will always be a moron ready to bomb over an edge into the next slope at 50 mph or more because of course there won't be anyone in there. Except me.

Solid carving can be done with any boot. Duckstance makes backsides a lot harder, though.

I like those vids, but I think it will fail to catch on. Reason: Most softboot carvers in the vids (Ryan Knapton excepted) ride forward stance, which is shunned by the overwhelming majority of softboot riders, because it is so, so not cool and so, so limiting if one wants to ride fakie and do tricks and whatnot. Which may lead them to try and emulate Mr Knapton, which will fail in most cases, because it takes an extremely accomplished rider to do what he does in duck stance. (And even RK is quite explicit about how he works hard to overcome the limitations of his stance, and his softboot videos usually show twenty serious frontsides to one backside.)

For more flex, you loosen the nuts away the center - right for the top nut, left for the bottom nut, seen from behind. That said, I (weighing in at less than 160 in socks) felt the stock system was a good idea, but too stiff, as I found out after I had exchanged the black tongues for the softer red ones. So I switched to ACSS in my second season in the UPZs. Judging from the pic, you are already maxed out in terms of flex. Some very accomplished riders I know simply remove the forward lean system (the same for Deeluxe), but I feel safer having a spring in there, not sure if it makes any difference for my riding. The bottom nut is 10 mm, I think. I can check over Xmas if you want.

To be frank, the RAB didn't do much for me. At about 140 lb. or slightly above, it felt like the boot was a one-piece design, even with the softer springs. There is another spring system for Deeluxe available from a guy on the Swoard forum, though. I also found the stock UPZ tongues (the black ones) rather too stiff, so I got the red ones instead.

Since the OP states he is having trouble bleeding off speed without drifting, he might still benefit from a PB clinic, on a Coiler as well as any other board. And to come back on topic: easy fix. Be like me. Marry a hardbooter

I have never ridden with Patrice (of Swoard), so take this with a grain of salt. People who have, however, tell me that he rides with his bails set so loosely that he can literally close them with a single finger. You are probably on to something ;-)

I ride traditional camber and I never detune. No problems.

It's supposed to give you something to hold on to while setting down the board keep your board connected to you before you have successfully stepped into your bindings or closed the bails thereby preventing accidents caused by runaway boards Which, in my not at all humble opinion, it does. Additionally, it can function as a handle or strap for carrying the board (depending on the type of leash), prevent loss of your board if something stupid happens on the chair, etc.

Jackhammer - that's an evil one. The wife got a hairline fracture in her talus that way, and a whopping contusion on the other foot.

I use a leash similar to the one SEJ posted above: short leash on the front bail, short leash fixed with a keyring to the top buckle of the boot, plastic buckle in between. Nothing could be easier.

Great news. Good to see this forum back online.

Of course I use a leash. Not because I believe it to be useful when a binding opens in a fall (never had that happen), but because I am convinced it increases safety when you clip onto your board at the top of the run. I suspect those who habitually don't use a leash have never seen a board that escaped its rider during the clip-in process barrel down a slope. Those things can take a kid's head off.

Registration went smooth for me.

I had good results with the flo liners wearing them in the house two or three times for an hour or two each time. Whichever way you go with flo liners, definitely take Beckmann's advice and get them foot-shaped BEFORE you hit the slopes.

My 2 cents: If you have a great fit in a given shell shape, praise the lord and stick with that shell shape.

You will get tons of input, but here's my 2 cents as regards bindings: Stay away from Snopro step-ins. Their system got a bad rep for clogging, they have been out of production for a long time, and plastic does not get better with age. Ibex are not old Burtons. The company that made the Ibex bindings was the OEM for Burton. These days they make bindings under the Carve Company brand. With quite a lot of flex, they are extremely popular with the Pureboarding crowd Personally, I have never felt the need for step-ins, but that may be a function of the size of your local hill.