dshack

You'd be surprised. Normal razors are designed so that they pull hairs out of their follicles before cutting them, which irritates the skin. Also, with 3+ blades, all but the first one are cutting with almost no lubrication. With a straight or double razor, you lubricate every pass, and don't pull the hair. Especially on my neck, it's a hell of a lot more comfortable than disposables. should explain things pretty well.

badgerandblade.com. Somewhat like bomber in that it's a online community of people intent on supporting a niche hobby. I've been doing it for a few months now, and it's infinitely more pleasant than a 3-blade or (ugh!) an electric razor.

Are you night skiiers from Portland, or closer to Hood?

How do y'all toss your Ultra's around in crud and trees? I have a hard time getting it through any narrow backcountry situations.

I try to stay on a super-low budget, maintain energy through the day, and avoid a real lunch stop. I have coffee, oatmeal, and yogurt before I go, and eat purchased-in-bulk nature's valley or quaker bars every few hours. My sole stop, if I don't have any caffienated food, is to drink some coffee from a thermos- a good one will keep the stuff hot for 6 or 8 hours. Afterwards, I try to get at least 20g of protein or so.

I'll be up there around 9. Anyone up to meet up, carve, and maybe show a beginner some tricks?

I would assume you'd use a 600-grit arkansas or diamond afterwards, but wouldn't these be great for removing case-hardened burrs or starting a sharpening? They also sell "Alumina plus carborundum composite stones," in 180, 220, and 600 grit, 3 for $7. Again, I'd probably finish off a tune with a finer board-specific stone, but assuming one's using them wet and with a guide, abrasion's abrasion, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?f=bylogo&logourl=DiamondLife%2Egif&brand=Diamond%20Life Would there be a danger to my board using these at all, assuming they were clamped to a file guide?

A good guess, I suppose.

Is the UP the softest-flexing Burton?

Sounds good. I'll try to work out housing and Friday's classwork.

Coming back Sunday night after riding?

One of them aramid Viruses, foam-injected liners in some BTS-equipped Heads, TD2 Ti's, and a car. Maybe a Dupraz softie setup, too.

Dan or any other Portland-area carvers, are you at all interested in carpooling or accommodation sharing? I'm young, small, and broke, and don't mind riding in the middle of a backseat or sleeping on a floor. I'll split gas and housing costs, obviously, but I'm trying to make it to this thing on a tight budget.

dj, -Make sure that the tabs engage on the side of the cant that tilts downward. -The more the plates are tilted, the better they engage. -Tighten all the hardware a bunch before you leave, and check it when you get to the mountain. Maybe use some vibratite. -Keep an eye out for fixed cant plates. I just ordered a normal one, and I'm going to try to find another. Unicants are basically the worst piece of snowboard hardware ever created.

I had my third day on alpine board, a 162 Ultra Prime that I bought from Klug. The first two days were spent trying to keep up with freeriders (including heavy chop and the trees in Heather Canyon at Meadows- bad plan) and fixing constantly-loosening burton unicant plates. There was a little carving in there, but nothing to be that proud of. Today I hop on the board, think to myself, "angulate," and suddenly I'm carving across a mellow blue on my toeside edge with a hand skimming the snow. Shift my weight a little, and the heelside links up great.A few more turns, and I stop and look back at my tracks. They may not be perfect half-circles, but they're certainly trenches. At least until I wore out my quads, the turns were coming pretty effortlessly and smooth; I went back and forth between cross-over and cross-through. The UP seemed great on wide stuff, but I think between its large SCR and my beginning nature, anything with a hint of steepness or narrowness tossed my carving off. I could kind of make it down, but it tended to be awkward turns until I was far enough down that there was a runout to catch my excess speed when I pointed downhill. Now I get why they build boards especially for carving at slower speeds...

I'll take the 7 degree cant if you're selling it separately.

Yar. After classes were cancelled for the day, we tried to hit Meadows, but after passing two wrecks and several mis-oriented and stopped cars, and seeing a freeway moving about 25mph, we gave it up.

7-8 kids, or adults? There are certainly size 23 and 24 boots out there, and I would imagine women's tele boots go pretty small.

The Timeless is really flexy. I rode a friend's, and it was a noodle compared to my Salomon 450.

1) Any pics of the rossi plates? 2) Would you sell the burton cants separately?

So if they used cant/lift it would decamber too much?

I kind of wondered about that myself (Esp. now that it's $450 for the top-end model). Is the heelcup deeper or the ankle strap positioned significantly higher than normal stiff softboot bindings (Burton P1 carbon, Salomon SP55, Nidecker 900, Flow CFX etc)? What makes them, in the eyes of so many on the Catek forum, almost comparable to hardboot bindings?

Is it a push to ride a 162 Ultra Prime at (a pretty muscular) 125lb? I've only been out on it a few days, and discovered that it's the wrong board for tree runs and moguls. That said, I do ejoy long, deep carves, and want to get as close to EC'ing as I can, but should I be using risers or stiff bindings to get more leverage on it, or just stop worrying about gear and focus on proper angulation?

Is there a way to replace the spring on the RAB? Maybe it's my light weight, but they feel incredibly stiff to me.