dshack

That's what I thought at first, too, but my foot seems to be the exact right length for the liner... do you think trying to squeeze the 25 thermos into a 24 burton shell would be possible? I've got a trade offer from a guy in a similar situation, but with feet one size bigger

Hmm...the lower assembly of my suzukas, the part that encloses my foot, clearly says 25.5...

Right now I have mondo 25 liners in a 25.5 suzuka shell. I'm pretty sure I can feel a little slop, though molded they look like they fit ok. I've got small hands, but when I do a shell test I can get about 3 fingers or so in there. I've got an option to trade for some Burton 24 winds. Has anyone tried to get thermo liners into burton shells? How does the sizing match up? Would a full step down be too much?

What sort of hardware are you supposed to use for Burton cants? I've got a 7 degree, and normal screws seem way too long.

I need to decide whether to bring my 156cm Salomon 350 or my 162 Burton UP...... Anyone want to meet up and ride?

I'll give this a try Saturday when I run low angles for the powder we've got here at Mt. Hood. There are people that normally carve with low-angles, right, like the pureboarding and EC folk? How do they manage good, stable heelsides?

Pimpin' ain't easy....

I wore HI blue or yellows, I'm not sure which, on a bluebird day last Saturday. It was brighter than I'd prefer, but not lethal. I definitely found myself squinting occasionally. The HI's, I think, have an 83% VLT. The 70% VLT smith Sensor Mirror lenses are cheaper and more versatile as far as low-light goggles go, I think. I see a bunch of patrollers use them, whether it's blue skies or completely overcast.

Yeah, I've been trying to limit myself to one or two adjustments per day. If I can remember places my stance felt wrong at the end of the day, I mess with it before I go out the next time, and occasionally once more on the slope. I've got burton bindings with unicants, though, so adjusting anything is a really lame endeavor. I'll try the lifting the toes thing, though.

any advice?

I'll take the 3.5 if you've got a 3d disc for it.

Will you run into problems using a liner (that fits) a half-size smaller than the lower assembly size?

I'm on my 8th or 9th day of carving, and it's going pretty well. I'm riding a burton ultra prime around Mt Hood Meadows, working on form and getting different sorts of turns down, and occasionally dropping into the backside bowls. I've got a few technique issues, though: The whole "drive your knees into the slope" thing, combined with trying to keep my torso upright and rotated, did amazing things for my toeside turns. I was already trying to angulate, but when I tossed in a big knee bend, I could really feel the board carve a deep trench and pop me out at the end. I tried recreating that sensation on heelside, but I can't figure out what to do with my knees. On the 19cm waist, I'm riding angles that put my toes and heels flush with the edges, a bit over 45 front and rear. This means that a lot of my turning power is coming from front-back toe and heel pressure, and when I try to make a good heelside turn, I feel like I'm either sticking my butt out, straightening my legs, or washing my tail out. This manifests itself in the fairly wavy heelside trenches I leave. Yesterday I tried cranking up my binding angles, to about 60/60. Instantly I felt my heelside get a lot stronger- it was a lot easier to visualize driving my knees sideways and into the turn than backwards. My toesides didn't seem to suffer noticably from the change, either. Is this a poor-quality solution to the problem? I did notice that I lost a lot of mogul/powdermound manuverability when I cranked the angles up. Does it have to be a trade-off between power and maneuverability, or is there a technique change I should make with lower angles?

These have been used for perhaps 10 or 12 days; they're scuffed but functionally fine. They're mounted with the red tongues and spring system from the Indy, but come with normal tongues spoilers, the standard lean mechanism, and an extra pair of black race tongues. The shells are 25.5 but the liners are 25.0 (molded twice). I've been having some boot fit issues, so I was thinking of trying to move down to a 24.5 or even a 24. I'd most prefer to find a pair of smaller raichles or old burtons, but I'd also be up for cash. Make me an offer.

Since you're keeping yourself well-angulated, are you throwing yourself down with your knees, or what?

Bull, I'm curious as to why you tried outward canting at first. My understanding was that most people only canted outward if they were bow-legged, or if they were trying to force knee separation that they were having a hard time with otherwise. Heel and toe lift with a little cant has been doing wonders for me. I think I've got about 5 degrees front and back. I feel a little like the heel lift is tossing me further into toesides than I want, though, so I might dial it down a little. Anyone ride with more lift up front than in back?

I bought some suzukas used, and they came with an RAB and tongue from a pair of Indys, plus another black race tongue. I'm pretty sure AF stuff is cross-compatible.

They got a little snow last night, and it's cooling down a bit, so it shouldn't be horrible.

Why the cotton between the toes?

I'm getting my Suzukas remolded, to fill out the space above my foot a little more (they were molded with the buckles super-tight, which I think compressed the liner). I've got thin blue Superfeet in there now; if I put in green ones for a little more support and cushioning, will it mess with how the liner forms around my ankles?

What exactly does 'high intensity' mean? Are the h.i. persimmon lenses as high-contrast as the yellows?

I'm looking for some goggles for cloudy days, and possibly night skiing (though I may just buy clear ones or use clear glasses for that). After trying to wear my polarized Carrera Kimeriks this last rainy saturday at meadows, I'm realizing I really need some lenses that hold up in flat light. I'm looking to spend around $50. So far I've found: -Smith Regulator Transit goggles with a 70-% VLT cool-looking "sensor mirror lens" -Dragon DXS with a blue ionized lens: no VLT information, but touted as low-light, high contrast. -Zeal Detonators or Aspects: I can't find any information on lens tints- do any of you have Zeals that work in low light? -Oakley A- or O-frames with persimmon lenses: they've got a pretty high VLT, around 60% I think, but I've been told yellow and high-intensity tints have way higher contrast. Thoughts? -Oakley Wisdoms with H.I. yellow lenses. Super-tempting, but they're $80 and I'm worried that if the sun came out at all, I'd go blind. Between Smith, Zeal, Dragon, and Oakley, have you noticed any goggles that are particularly good or bad as far as peripheral vision, clarity, or light transmission go? What goggles do you use if you're expecting crappy weather?

If they hassle you about taking boots carry-on, just put your normal shoes in your bag and wear the boots until you're past security.... Southwest allows 1 ski/snowboard container free. Not sure if there's a weight limit.

I don't think I've ever found myself lacking heelside power in softboot bindings, even non-rotated ones. It's toeside where the problems with power transmission are.

Your mileage may vary....laterally, I found the switch boots (N- and X-type) super-noodly. Toesides aren't great on them, either. The ankle strap comes over the boot much lower than on your average strap binding. To run high angles on softies, you need something with lateral support, like the solomon spx5/spx55, a 3-strap, or the old burton boardercross Mission.