dshack

How big is too big for a 125lb guy? I'm set on moving up from a burton ultra prime 162 to something that holds a better edge in uneven snow, and floats a little better in powder. I'm looking at the likes of Donex axis, coiler AM, prior 4wd, and rad-air tanker, and was wondering what a good size would be for me. I know there's no one 'magic size,' but I was looking for a general guide as far as range goes. Also: are the oxygen APX or proton worth looking into as all-mountain boards? What about the nidecker escape or tornado?

Interested in the APX and the bag. As far as the board goes, what year is it? How many days on it? How stiff is it compared to an alpine board?

Seems like if I was skiing, and planning on keeping my upper body out of the snow most of the time, a softshell would be great. But honestly, the idea of a less waterproof, less abrasion-resistant jacket just doesn't appeal to me.

New with tags, $150 shipped. Gore-tex XCR, full side-zips, durable and waterproof.

How's that thing compare to a tanker? I'm looking for a big board to put lines through absolutely any conditions, and I'm torn between a tanker and an AM board. Is the Respect worth considering?

what's the waist on it?

I always wondered about that piezoelectric Head "intelligence." I know they sell it pretty heavily in their skis, boards, and rackets, but it seems like if it was that great, they'd be licensing it. If it's more than hype, wouldn't it be great for alpine boards?

Wun, speaking as someone close to your size (23.5 mondo boot, 125lb), unless you've got an abnormally short torso, you'll at least want the option to easily cant. The inner mounting holes on many boards are not designed for the inseams of very short guys, and canting gave me more leverage, less leg burn, and a much easier ride. You might want to try flat and canted bindings before you buy, as some require you to buy cant plates as an additional item or as a substitute for flat plates.

Specs on the nidecker?

nidecker pics to davidshackelford at gmail dot com please.

Interested in the nidecker...still available?

Dr, do you know who else makes jackets with airvantage? I love the concept, I just need to find a company with a smaller fit chart.

If anyone wants detail shots, feel free to ask.

Bought it from Backcountryoutlet. Original tags, never worn (except trying it on for size). Very nice gore-tex laminate, and the airvantage system lets you adapt the insulation as conditions change. Size-wise, it's more of a small than the extra-small printed on the tag. I've got 35" chest/ 27" waist/ 30.5" sleeve length, and it's big on me. $200.

photos please, to davidshackelford at gmail dot com. What's the turning radius on the proto?

Conform'able liners and footbeds, I believe. Great boots, little softer than the malamutes but techier and more styling. New in box, never worn, never molded.

Got a 162 I could sell you...

How do gravity decks compare to Sector 9's? I've ridden S9's, and liked loaded, G&S, fibreflex, and landyachtz a lot more. They're pretty expensive, though, and gravity's seem to pop up at great prices. Thoughts? Good models to look at?

Oh, I guess I was just looking at the lineup on Dan Yoja's site. Anyone find pricing info on these?

It's just the pro carve that comes with the carbon topsheet, right?

$25 parcel post, I think.

Flowlab.It lets me carve up San Francisco, which would otherwise be made difficult by the lack of streets with good runouts. With the flowlab board, I can carve sidewalks:).

A flowboard will allow the smallest-radius carving of any board out there. I can do controlled carves down a standard-width city sidewalk. However, they're horrible for pushing, even with nice wheels and bearings. The 14 wheels also make for a heavy setup and expensive replacement. They also get speed wobble like mad. Fun, though, when you've got the right conditions. I've heard that the Hammerhead is a good deal faster on the flats and more stable.

Do a search for 'insole.' There's not quite consensus on this issue- some claim that they molded the liners without insoles and feel great, others claim that if you don't have an insole, you are WRONG and your foot is UNSUPPORTED and you are SACRIFICING PERFORMANCE. Have you molded already? Unless the shell is way too tight, you should be able to, even with insoles, get the liner to compress at the top.

I would think a high arch would make them more imperative....where do the boots get too tight? Insoles can have wide variations in thickness at the ball of your foot, the midfoot, and the heel. You might be able to find a supportive insole that's thin in the place you need it. Surefoot blues are thin all over. Aline footbeds, according to the rep (mine are coming this week) are thicker in the midfoot than superfeet, but smaller in the heel and possibly at the toes. I think orthotic and custom insole makers have some thin options available.