Dr D

switch still has extremely high demand with used boots in adult sizes going for 200 plus bones on ebay regularly. The better models are near impossible to find. I can name ten people here in backwoods montana that are always in the market for another pair no matter the cost.

John mcginnis formerly of identity now of garage snowboards

excellent thank you. any qualms telling me which now defunct company had it figured out? I can definitely see your small custom shop tooling cost point. We have a hard time getting jon to get on board with new ideas for that very reason.

ITs nose down but otherwise looks about right. 3800 is a fun little board.

what are you people smoking? I can't imagine riding something shorter than 168 powder or otherwise:lol: like the man said flex is more important.

Burtons current business model seems to be turn out as much cheap **** as possible and flood the market with it. Good step ins have been made. the only reason I can think for their demise is manufacturing expense and smaller profit margin. that said I am sure the vans switch patent is up for grabs if someone wanted to start making them again.

got a set in 30 for sale? some of the best gear is no longer made its very frustrating. we didn't worry about burton bindings back when they were the newest and greatest. sometimes I wonder if its all sky is falling mentality.

deal in progress. I think we are just dealing with his intermittent dial up issue.

Draggin jeans are a bigger hit on the street scene maybe? kevlar lined jeans pretty cool actually. doesn't excuse the tshirt though.

did you get my email?

I gotta side with the to stiff crowd although I use the step ins. I would love to see more work done on making a suspension kit that is even more flexy. I ride burtons way better but they scare me now that I am officially a horse. so I ride the stiff stuff and its not as much fun. Boots aren't the answer either since its lateral flex that's most missed. on the topic at hand step ins are absolutely necessary since bending over and buckling in aren't any where near as easy as they were 15 yrs ago. plus I can step in on the lift and cruise right off without stopping at all. one of our lifts is so high on the exit that you are really moving by the time you get to the bottom of the ramp plus it takes a hard left. near suicide on one leg depending on who is riding with you. as for softie stepins there is only one SWITCH the rest truly sucked as far as I am concerned. the four point contact of switch out does the two point on the others by miles. the k2 front and rear vs the burton side to side made one way or the other sloppy. switches four point makes the interface tight. not all the boots were necessarily good though just because they were switch.

makes sense to a point. why wouldn't a sandwich board do the same thing? same materials. I understand that the sidewall material has a certain elasticity to it that would mediate an edge strike somewhat. The epoxies used would seem to be a bigger factor. certainly snowboard epoxies are more resilient than the stuff used in helmets. Helmets aren't designed to flex rapidly back and forth for extended periods of time. Careful maintainance and profilactic epoxy applied to even minute cracks would be a good idea then? As a manufacturer could you honestly say there is a dramatic difference in the two? assuming we are talking about two boards of the same quality otherwise.

so really it comes down to core design and how well made the cap is as well as how thick the edge material is. I notice a huge difference between our handmade customs and the run of the mill boards in edge thickness. the metal edge on my garage is easily 2.5 times thicker than the edges on the dynastar legend I had. 3+ base grinds vs maybe one. thats gotta have more effect on board strength than a core thats radiused on the top edge. I am no engineer but I like to think I can objectively look at the physics of something. having a flat sheet of fiber (triaxial lets say) lined up against something that has at least one bend in it or a radiused curve, the bent piece should be stronger and certainly stiffer(ie the above mentioned livliness) I can see the cracked edge thing being a weak point but epoxy will seal a crack on a cap as easily as it does a crack on a sandwhich.

what makes edge damage harder to repair on a cap board?

so maybe the structural cap thing is where the meat of this subject lies. I am familiar only with structural cap. (My cap boards are tougher than my sandwhich boards) I never realized that there are differences under the cap. The indentities and garages are sandwhich that extends beyond the core and is trimmed to meet the edge after pressing. The topsheet and the fabric both cover down over the radiused core to the edge. Barring massive trauma thats as tough as a board gets. carbon and aramid fibers or even fiberglass trilam is tougher than a thin layer of plastic. Now if you just layered the graphic topsheet down over the edge It would be a cheap piece of ****. I guess I never ran across one built that way.

:lurk:Hmmmmm methinks you protest to loudly:lurk: My vote is that the rugger douche is the artificial kidwell. I never heard of the guy and he pops up throwing his own feces and shrieking:smashfrea crazy stuff On the bright side he makes Bobdea look almost conservative:lol::lol: sorry bob I couldn't resist funnin ya.

The garage is wood core and has survived unijured for two seasons. I recomend painting the exposed edge with epoxy to avoid water damage. I cut the edges with a stone wheel and then cut the board with a band saw. The edges are super hard don't expect a jigsaw to cut them. I think a hacksaw to get started would work though. Super flexy ride very pumpable and carveable lots of fun. My kid is the envy of the neighborhood. We have probably 6 boards built this way including a drop through and various other shapes.

what edge damage specifically. I notice cosmetic stuff from lift lline etc that needed a little epoxy to seal. you cant shave sidewall after one to many base jobs as effectively. I have used epoxy and or super glue on the cap edge and sidewall of both types equally. Are we talking about serious damage like a delam?

makes sense to me. John builds cap boards because they are livelier and because he can make them all the same easier. I guess the cross thing with the legend is that the dampness is in between the feet and the nose and tail are more alive. John did say that mass producing cap boards is harder to control quality. they have to be exactly right in the press. I have yet to find an identity or garage that I didn't love. they are all cap construction. I really liked the dynastar legend as well but found it to be really heavy.

TO small but an interesting offer. I will ask around local and see if anyone is in the market in that size. Your not a Clydsedale, with feet that small your a draft mule:eplus2:

super secret research poll to find out the real numbers:eplus2:

IS it all hype? I know several builders who use cap exclusively for specific reasons. I also know that big snowboard company X says that cap= cheap junk. The Dynastar legend is sandwich between the bindings and cap on both nose and tail with exceptional results. what is your opinion and why.

email sent

I think that silicone topsheet is probably safe enough! It'd take a Real clydesdale to ride something with that much camber she might have a thong on its hard to tell:lol::lol:

IT looks dangerous to me:eplus2: